Juddering when reversing and pulling away in 1st

Post by **ssnjimb** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:03 pm

Hello Folks.

Since i bought the minor i have notice judder when reversing the car out of a parking space and when i pull away at a junction.

Also is it normal for the clutch to be so snappy if i bring it up ever so slighty too fast the back wheels nearly skip hop and jump.

Could it be the clutch release bearing or engine and gearbox mounts.

James Stephenson

Post by **PSL184** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:04 pm

I'd look at engine & gearbox mounts first before condeming the clutch....

Post by **ssnjimb** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:12 pm

Hello PSL184

Thankyou for your speedy reply

Currently in north wales and driving through Wrexham today was poor

Had to buy a new alternator as the old one was making shh shhh shh shh noises and when i removed it the bearing was so worn the pulley could be moved up and down.

Iam going through faults at a speed of knots.

James

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:15 pm

Probably it has oil on the clutch plate - look in from below (take out the rubber bungs) and see if its' all covered in oil.

Post by **PSL184** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:35 pm

Check that the rear axle is located still on the pegs ontop of the springs - I had this on one of mine and caused some real nasty axle tramp....

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:38 pm

Good point there - yes the rear axle location points for the springs can rot away and allow the axle to twist and steer !!

Post by **ssnjimb** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:50 pm

Hello Folks

Thanks for the tips.

I will check the axle and leaf springs tomorrow.

Iam going to fit my new dual gauge that i bought from the welsh mg centre. Iam just wondering where i will put the sender and oil pipe through to the engine.

James

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:57 pm

" New dual gauge" - wow- you didn't say you were a Lottery winner!!!!!
You need a T piece for the oil connection - goes in where the oil pressure switch is at present, the op switch in one arm of T and oil gauge connector in the other. Water temp - is it mechanical type ? If so - you need an adapter (did you get one ?) to fit it in place of the blanking plug (hope you have a 1098!) just below the top hose connection on the engine. The connection tubes are v fragile - take great care with them, and feed them through grommets v carefully where they will NOT be rubbed or trapped by steering column etc.

Post by **ssnjimb** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:01 pm

Hello Ecosse

Lol lottery winner no such luck only ever won £10.

I did get an adaptor and a copper pipe for the oil pressure part of the gauge.

Where the oil switch is do i need any kind of adaptor to fit this.

It is a 1098.

James

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:10 pm

Yes! You need a T piece and an adapter to fit the oil pipe to the T. I'm amazed they didn't explain all this at the point of sale - and sell you the necessary parts !

Post by **PSL184** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:27 pm

On the subject of T pieces - I stil haven't found anything suitable to allow me to fit gauge and oil light together on my 1275 (ex Marina). Has anyone got any solutions short of having something machined...?

Post by **StaffsMoggie** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:34 pm

Those dual gauges are really nice, not cheap though. Presumably as they were fitted to Sprites and Midgets the temperature sensing bulb will also fit the Minors head once you remove the blanking plug. Be very careful with the tube! They are quite delicate. The oil pressure gauge just needs plumbing into the oil gallery where the oil warning light switch screws in.

Going back to the clutch judder, Minors nearly always suffer from this to some degree. It is well worth replacing all the engine and gearbox mountings and the engine steady bushes under the bonnet. Ultimately though the main cause of the judder is usually oil finding its way onto the clutch plate.

Post by **ssnjimb** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:47 pm

Iam just going to disconnect the oil warning light and use the gauge.

I will need to purchase a gauge holder to hold it in.

I have currently removed the glove box inner on the drivers side so its easier to access wiring etc.

One other thing i have installed is an accesory socket i have wired it directly to the battery is this ok i only use it for the sat nav or mobile phone charger.

I will make it my next plan to change the two front engine mounts first.

Are they easy enough to replace.

James

Post by **PSL184** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:57 pm

Make sure you put an in-line fuse in the positive side of your aux socket just in case

Engine mounts are easy to do but gearbox mounts are a bit more fiddly ;-)

Post by **IslipMinor** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:12 pm

James,

2 things to check that help to prevent judder at low speeds - the engine steady bar from the top of the head to the bulkhead just under the battery, and the cable that runs from the back of the gearbox to the rear crossmember. They both need to be in good condition and correctly adjusted.

Post by **ssnjimb** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:41 pm

Hi Richard

Would the information be in the British Leyland thick blue book?

Or can they just be turned until tight.

I will do those before checking gearbox mount.

Do you know what would causes steering wheel wobble at 60mph plus, I have had the wheels balanced.

James

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 10:22 pm

The steady bar and cable should NOT be 'tight' - just nip up the steady bar (although some assure us we can do without it!!) - and the cable should be 'not quite' tight - in other words just a little slack in it.
Wobble - incorrect wheel balance is most likely - they are best balanced with the drum which can be well out of balance itself. Also -problems with the tyres (ie bulges/offset radial belt, flat spots etc) - and wear in the king-pins and track-rod ends and steering rack ! Start by swapping the front wheels onto the back - and see if it's just the same.

Post by **ssnjimb** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 10:25 pm

I will loosen the steady bar a turn and see if it makes a difference before i climb underneath again lol

Had the grease the prop for the first time that was a painful experiance.

I get the vibration at 50 so i assume i need new uj's at both ends.

I will get this car sorted before its june mot

When we are back from wrexham on thurs i will post some pictures of the car.

After i installed the new alternator the car seemed to start faster

very odd

James

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 10:29 pm

Hardly odd! The battery is now being properly charged !!

Post by **mike.perry** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 10:36 pm

Open the bonnet and rev the engine and watch for any movement of the engine steady bar, it may have become detached under the battery box.
I bought my dual gauge in the early 70s for my ex GPO driving instructors van. I sold the van (I know - one of the biggest regrets of my life) and kept the gauge which is now in my traveller.

Morris Minor Owners Club

Juddering when reversing and pulling away in 1st

Juddering when reversing and pulling away in 1st

Clutch