New Rear Dampers...
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- Minor Friendly
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 5:06 pm
- Location: Banbury, UK
- MMOC Member: No
New Rear Dampers...
I recently bought some reconditioned rear dampers for my car and took them to be revalved to uprate them for racing and the bloke took one look at them, and the rubber ring jammed behind the arm to limit undesirable movement of the arm, and said that they were no good, something i fully aggred with. we both concluded that eventually the O-ring would be worn out, fall off and the damper arms would begin moving in directions that are far from desirable.
Does anyone have, or know where I can get, or even if they exist New rear dampers? Also, can anyone recommend recon dampers they have bought if new ones are unavailable?
Any help, as ever, much appreciated.
Does anyone have, or know where I can get, or even if they exist New rear dampers? Also, can anyone recommend recon dampers they have bought if new ones are unavailable?
Any help, as ever, much appreciated.
As far as I know only recon ones are available and they are on an exchange basis providing the ones for exchange are serviceable. If the castings are too worn (as yours seem to be) they are scrap. Bull Motif sell them as I'm sure other online retailers do...
[sig]8426[/sig]
Compare the Minors - Simples !! http://mog.myfreeforum.org/index.php
Compare the Minors - Simples !! http://mog.myfreeforum.org/index.php
They may not be 'scrap' - it's just an opinion from one person. Try them and see! You don't need to 're-valve' - just use more viscous oil - that's what 750MC 'racers' have done for many years. Normal oil in these dampers is SAE10 - so if you go to say SAE 40 (and that's NOT 10W40) then the damping will be significantly improved. FYI - I used EP 90 in my Rally Minor many moons ago - but you decide for yourself what grade of oil suits you best! If you decide you really must 're-valve' - then take them out and DIY - the valves can be adjusted and/or little shims taken out to increase the point where the valves lift off the seat. But I'm sure you will find the heavier oil ideal !
Last edited by bmcecosse on Sun Feb 01, 2009 9:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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- Minor Friendly
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 5:06 pm
- Location: Banbury, UK
- MMOC Member: No
When I showed them to the man, whom is very experienced in modifying lever arm dampers and has raced A35s etc. for years said the O ring was there to eliminate the lever moving, and I concurred.
I did discuss also with him about simply changing the oil and he did say this is what he used to do, but it is far more efficient to have them revalved. He revalves them and matches them as a pair, so one is not stronger than the other.
I'll send mine back and get some more, but I will be asking questions prior to ordering. Many thanks for all the comments, as ever.
I did discuss also with him about simply changing the oil and he did say this is what he used to do, but it is far more efficient to have them revalved. He revalves them and matches them as a pair, so one is not stronger than the other.
I'll send mine back and get some more, but I will be asking questions prior to ordering. Many thanks for all the comments, as ever.
Would be interested to know where he gets the uprated valves from - or does he simply adjust the ones that are in there? I know uprated valves are available for MGB dampers - but don't know if they will fit Minor dampers. Any info you can 'squeeze' out of him will be very interesting !
And - if that really is the function of the O ring - it will maybe last about 1.5 seconds! Perhaps it's just there to hide some 'butchery' marks in the damper body!
And - if that really is the function of the O ring - it will maybe last about 1.5 seconds! Perhaps it's just there to hide some 'butchery' marks in the damper body!



Thanks for this tip. i don't normally put much stock in the idea of using something that has a decent modern replacement option (i.e telescopics) but since i'm selling the car and they had to come off when i replaced the axle I thought i'd have a go. So a couple of flushes and new sae 20 oil and they have a very nice action so thanks for the tip.bmcecosse wrote:They may not be 'scrap' - it's just an opinion from one person. Try them and see! You don't need to 're-valve' - just use more viscous oil - that's what 750MC 'racers' have done for many years. Normal oil in these dampers is SAE10 - so if you go to say SAE 40 (and that's NOT 10W40) then the damping will be significantly improved. FYI - I used EP 90 in my Rally Minor many moons ago - but you decide for yourself what grade of oil suits you best! If you decide you really must 're-valve' - then take them out and DIY - the valves can be adjusted and/or little shims taken out to increase the point where the valves lift off the seat. But I'm sure you will find the heavier oil ideal !