Cylinder Head
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- Minor Legend
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- Location: Essex
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 1453
- Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:09 pm
- Location: Essex
- MMOC Member: No
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- Minor Fan
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- Joined: Wed Jun 12, 2002 1:00 am
- Location: South Bedfordshire
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MM Cylinder Head
Alan, When I first restored my car I ran it with the standard head and the Shorrock supercharger. With the supercharger it improved the pull of the engine so not so much changing of gears, top speed improved some what. So there was some improvement although there is a lot to improve.
I rebuilt the engine, lightened and balanced the flywheel and fitted the Alta head. There was vast improvement, the engine pull/torque improved dramatically plus the top speed.
So in inclusion the combination of rebuild, flywheel, head and compressor were the key factors.....so I would at least take up what Mike suggested and lighten the flywheel.
I lightened the flywheel on my OHV van engine and there was a vast improvement also.
I have yet to fit my Derrington style exhaust, so I cannot comment on the improvement of that yet....
regards Keith
I rebuilt the engine, lightened and balanced the flywheel and fitted the Alta head. There was vast improvement, the engine pull/torque improved dramatically plus the top speed.
So in inclusion the combination of rebuild, flywheel, head and compressor were the key factors.....so I would at least take up what Mike suggested and lighten the flywheel.
I lightened the flywheel on my OHV van engine and there was a vast improvement also.
I have yet to fit my Derrington style exhaust, so I cannot comment on the improvement of that yet....
regards Keith
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- Series MM Registrar
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The reprofiled cam worked quite well in my previous engine but I didn't want to strip down this engine so I haven't used it for a while. I have the lightened flywheel fitted though.
A 4 branch exhaust even into a standard bore exhaust has got to be an improvement on the original fitting. The exhaust is the same bore as the Minor 1000 so it is not desperately small.
I have found that the best way to clamp the exhaust to the manifold is to support the front pipe on a scissor jack and raise it into position, checking that it is lined up before tightening the bolts.
I have a couple of Morano photos but I am having trouble uploading them. I shall keep trying.
A 4 branch exhaust even into a standard bore exhaust has got to be an improvement on the original fitting. The exhaust is the same bore as the Minor 1000 so it is not desperately small.
I have found that the best way to clamp the exhaust to the manifold is to support the front pipe on a scissor jack and raise it into position, checking that it is lined up before tightening the bolts.
I have a couple of Morano photos but I am having trouble uploading them. I shall keep trying.
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How do you find the lightened flywheel on hilly country? At the moment i live in a "hole"
and theres long windy hilly roads to get out anywhere
i fitted the manifold and down pipe together before fitting inthe car to be sure it was all lined up. there was about an inch or 2 difference to where that lined up and the exhaust pipe was - so i know thats the problem

i fitted the manifold and down pipe together before fitting inthe car to be sure it was all lined up. there was about an inch or 2 difference to where that lined up and the exhaust pipe was - so i know thats the problem

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- Minor Legend
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- Series MM Registrar
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The early side valve had a small bore "peashooter" exhaust but replacement systems are the same bore as the M1000. The silencer on the MM is different, the front pipe enters towards the top and the tail pipe is joined towards the bottom whereas the M1000 pipes join the silencer at either end in the centre.
The side valve engine does not rev as high as the A Series but has a lot of low speed pulling power.
Photos of the Morano Carbs
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The side valve engine does not rev as high as the A Series but has a lot of low speed pulling power.
Photos of the Morano Carbs
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Last edited by mike.perry on Sun Dec 21, 2008 7:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Series MM Registrar
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- Minor Legend
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Just measured my exhaust which is 1 1/4 (OD), which I guess is not quite peashooter size! but not by much!
I believe the MONARO castings are now available, I have no idea of cost or shipping.
I had my twin setup running today for balancing and mixture setting, all seems fine. Final mixture settings will be obtained by checking plug colours after a long run (tickover always seems slightly rich)
One thing I did notice was that there seems to be a noticable increase in 'intake roar' on blipping the throttle - sounded quite good!
I believe the MONARO castings are now available, I have no idea of cost or shipping.
I had my twin setup running today for balancing and mixture setting, all seems fine. Final mixture settings will be obtained by checking plug colours after a long run (tickover always seems slightly rich)
One thing I did notice was that there seems to be a noticable increase in 'intake roar' on blipping the throttle - sounded quite good!

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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 1453
- Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:09 pm
- Location: Essex
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- Series MM Registrar
- Posts: 10183
- Joined: Sun Jul 24, 2005 11:39 pm
- Location: Reading
- MMOC Member: No
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 1453
- Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:09 pm
- Location: Essex
- MMOC Member: No
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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 163
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- Location: South Bedfordshire
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Needle Code
The needle code on the twin 1 1/8 inch SUs supplied with my Alta head are EB. Hope this helps. regards Keith
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- Series MM Registrar
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The EB is listed as the weak needle for the M 948cc H2 & HS2 '59 on & 1098cc '62 on.
It is also listed as the rich needle for the Frogeye Sprite H1 carbs, and the rich needle for the Triumph Herald 947cc H1 carb, and the weak needle for the Spitfire 947cc HS2 carbs.
I'm going to stop looking, I can feel an anorak moment coming on!!
It is also listed as the rich needle for the Frogeye Sprite H1 carbs, and the rich needle for the Triumph Herald 947cc H1 carb, and the weak needle for the Spitfire 947cc HS2 carbs.
I'm going to stop looking, I can feel an anorak moment coming on!!
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- Series MM Registrar
- Posts: 10183
- Joined: Sun Jul 24, 2005 11:39 pm
- Location: Reading
- MMOC Member: No
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- Series MM Registrar
- Posts: 10183
- Joined: Sun Jul 24, 2005 11:39 pm
- Location: Reading
- MMOC Member: No
Comments from Graham Holt
Have just been looking at the MM Message Board and specifically at the latest comments under "Cylinder Head", which seems to have led on to a discussion on general tuning of Series MM's.
My first impression of this discussion is that there seems to be an emphasis on appearance / visual appeal, rather than on practicability.
Perhaps you may like to consider a few more comments to add to the
discussion.
1/ I notice much comment on multi-branch exhaust manifolds BUT nothing about Straight-through Silencers. Bear in mind that you can spend an awful lot of money on a M/B Ex M, but what is the point of rapidly ejecting the waste gas out of the engine if the efficiency is lost by an ordinary baffle type silencer? I'd be very keen to find out if there is a suitable silencer for the MM and, if so, I would have no hesitation in fitting one immediately. When I first had my MM in the early 1960's these were available from Servais or Burgess. Whatever happened to these companies? Does anyone know?
2/ Would recommend that any engine, especially a side valve, is re-worked to improve gas flow. OK, it's a painstaking job and a lot of time can be spent on this. Attention to all inlet and exhaust ports in the block, together with matching the ports to the manifold, and cleaning up of the manifold. The Cyl Head combustion chambers need to be cleaned up also and the head could then be skimmed to increase compression ratio. From experience, I know, and am convinced that any MM will certainly benefit from these basics.
3/ Next stage, ideally, would be to have the rotating parts balanced.
Again expensive, but well worth considering especially if a no-expense spared rebuild is intended.
4/ How about investigating whether double valve springs can be obtained? Terry's used to supply both single and double types. Can supply the part nos of these if you require.
5/ Ref Carb Needles for 1 1/8" Su's. Can confirm that the twin SU's for my Alta are fitted with type "GG' needles. I have seen the type 'EK' also listed and I believe that these are both for the Standard setting, whereas the type 'EB' which Keith mentions would appear to be for the Rich setting. Cannot comment further as the original Alta Information that I have does NOT define needle identification.
Hope this helps.
Have just been looking at the MM Message Board and specifically at the latest comments under "Cylinder Head", which seems to have led on to a discussion on general tuning of Series MM's.
My first impression of this discussion is that there seems to be an emphasis on appearance / visual appeal, rather than on practicability.
Perhaps you may like to consider a few more comments to add to the
discussion.
1/ I notice much comment on multi-branch exhaust manifolds BUT nothing about Straight-through Silencers. Bear in mind that you can spend an awful lot of money on a M/B Ex M, but what is the point of rapidly ejecting the waste gas out of the engine if the efficiency is lost by an ordinary baffle type silencer? I'd be very keen to find out if there is a suitable silencer for the MM and, if so, I would have no hesitation in fitting one immediately. When I first had my MM in the early 1960's these were available from Servais or Burgess. Whatever happened to these companies? Does anyone know?
2/ Would recommend that any engine, especially a side valve, is re-worked to improve gas flow. OK, it's a painstaking job and a lot of time can be spent on this. Attention to all inlet and exhaust ports in the block, together with matching the ports to the manifold, and cleaning up of the manifold. The Cyl Head combustion chambers need to be cleaned up also and the head could then be skimmed to increase compression ratio. From experience, I know, and am convinced that any MM will certainly benefit from these basics.
3/ Next stage, ideally, would be to have the rotating parts balanced.
Again expensive, but well worth considering especially if a no-expense spared rebuild is intended.
4/ How about investigating whether double valve springs can be obtained? Terry's used to supply both single and double types. Can supply the part nos of these if you require.
5/ Ref Carb Needles for 1 1/8" Su's. Can confirm that the twin SU's for my Alta are fitted with type "GG' needles. I have seen the type 'EK' also listed and I believe that these are both for the Standard setting, whereas the type 'EB' which Keith mentions would appear to be for the Rich setting. Cannot comment further as the original Alta Information that I have does NOT define needle identification.
Hope this helps.
[sig]3580[/sig]