1275 Block options
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Don't doubt it Jonathon - and if one can 'justify that that expense' for a 1360 engine - then I'm sure it will be fine ! Was jolly glad to get rid of my 1360 Mini a while back. Meantime I'm building up 2 x 1275 engines - and I'm sure they will be very very reliable and plenty powerful enough for my purpose! That wall thickness between cylinders is just asking for problems. If you don't 'need' the little bit of extra power - ask yourself -how often do you actually run the engine flat out - then it's far far better to keep to standard bores for reliability.



Blimey BM, you must squeek when you walk, and if you read my post as to why go, 1360 or 1380 its for torque not high rpm, torque starts very low on these motors so you do not need revs, hence helping to prolong the engine life, which in my engine builders experience is not compromised by the bore size.
The cost of the 1360 is about £300 more than a std or upto +60 bore, not too much to ask really for 'the real world' benefits.
Still you pays yer money......................but give me a Zetec anyday

The cost of the 1360 is about £300 more than a std or upto +60 bore, not too much to ask really for 'the real world' benefits.
Still you pays yer money......................but give me a Zetec anyday


Of course I have no labour costs - and i'm sure mine will last 12 months. I'm also sure your engines are excellent J !! And for those who can't/don't have time to DIY - then your 1360 will be fine provided they want/can afford to spend that kind of money. Me - i'm just a poor Scotsman who has to make do!



Well - actually - two moderns - but the Mini has gone. The lad who bought it broke the crank before he got it home ! I warned him about these big capacity engines - not to rev it stupidly high. He admitted he had been giving it some stick. I'm still using up used Marigolds ex work -- and the trains come FREE!



Crankshaft was fine when it left me! As was oil pressure. And he had a very thorough test drive. I did offer him another engine (and indeed money back on the car) but he was happy enough with the deal (the bodyshell alone was well worth what he paid)- and didn't even come to collect the spare engine !!



Aye - well - he was a Copper! He accepted he had been thrashing the engine, but the price he paid was too good a deal for him to go back - and as I said I also offered him another perfectly good engine - but he said he would just fix what he had - and I never heard from him again.
The main point I was making was that a highly modified 1340/60/80 engine is quite a fragile thing - the crank is not as strong as the EN40B Cooper S crank, and so some moderation is required. But as Jonathon points out - his modifications are intended to give more torque at moderate revs, not necessarily needing high (crank breaking!) revs !!
The main point I was making was that a highly modified 1340/60/80 engine is quite a fragile thing - the crank is not as strong as the EN40B Cooper S crank, and so some moderation is required. But as Jonathon points out - his modifications are intended to give more torque at moderate revs, not necessarily needing high (crank breaking!) revs !!



Aye -that was old good 948 cranks -but when I fitted a crankshaft damper and an oil cooler - no more broken cranks. Which one sorted the problem I have no idea - probably the damper. Strangely, both times I was able to drive the car (slowly) home. The Mini 1360 break was unusual - the nose broke off and the timing chain stopped going round.


