How much a respray?

Post by **pskipper** » Thu Feb 26, 2004 3:06 pm

Hi,

Anyone got an idea of how much it costs to get a full respray?

Post by **Alec** » Thu Feb 26, 2004 4:15 pm

Hello PSK,
how long is a piece of string? You could easily spend a couple of thousnd pound for a first class respray. or a couple of hundred for a blow over.

Alec

Post by **dennis** » Thu Feb 26, 2004 5:51 pm

would also depend on what part of the country you live in

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Thu Feb 26, 2004 6:33 pm

ok i would expect to pay around 600 for a good job, dents removed, may be some welding to body if neccessary. using masking tape on items as ness. if the panels windows and and things are removed i think you would be looking at somthing just over a 1000. a busy paint shop will have a reasonable fixed price for paint and materials. which in london would be added to the labour charge. you may be able to get it included. quick resprays should be back in a week the strip down one can take a while and may have a parts bill as well, which can be more then the labour. strip down is the best but it costs, could be double the labour. no need to waste time on rusty wings, buy new sort of thing i am sure you could get a respray for a couple of hendred but you cant complain. its hard demanding work just remember that the money you pay goes in to the sprayers belly as food which helps him the next day to do a good job.

i say only paint in cellious

Post by **elainemr** » Fri Feb 27, 2004 10:55 pm

My garageman was going to spray mine with 2pak (?), why do you recommend cellulose instead?

Elaine

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Sat Feb 28, 2004 10:16 am

hi elainemr if you look for matt post called compressers in techinical/ other the subject is touched on there.
i think that cellulose is the original. and thats the way it looks best.
2pac is a quick way to get a high shine. less attention is needed on dents.
it gets effected by the sun and in a few years the shine goes, cel can be polished at home using tcut. this can be done many years after.
bad news if someone asks me to restore a morris thats already painted in 2pac, i may decide to turn the work down. to many problems to restore back to cell.
2pac looks like a coating of plastic, cell looks like it should.

Post by **Gareth** » Sat Feb 28, 2004 11:28 am

I thought people were moving away from two-pack because of the health and safety implications, which make it more difficult and therefore more expensive to use compared to cellulose. What do they use in modern motor manufacture, is that cellulose?

Post by **rayofleamington** » Sat Feb 28, 2004 3:55 pm

Vehicle manufacturers have had to move away from decent paint. Many are using 'water?' based paints due to draconian regulations. These new paints require much higher levels of oven curing.

Decent aftermarket respray firms have invested in the right equipment to do 2pack safely, whereas DIY resprays are rarely done in 2pack as people are more away of the risk (death). Synthetics would be the other option, but Cellulous would be right for a Minor.

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Sat Feb 28, 2004 10:27 pm

2ray right its bad for us also the water based is getting washed down the drains

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Sat Feb 28, 2004 10:28 pm

i also think unleaded smell is worse then normal exhaust

Post by **Cam** » Sat Feb 28, 2004 11:15 pm

Nasty ain't it??

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Sat Feb 28, 2004 11:25 pm

yea cam i try not to breath it at all.

Post by **Peetee** » Sun Feb 29, 2004 7:58 am

i also think unleaded smell is worse then normal exhaust

Absolutely. I have always cycled or walked to work whenever possible. For the few years around the time that Unleaded was adopted by the majority of manufacturers and then motorists I was driving to work. When I got back on my bike in daily traffic I noticed the difference in smell and, more alarmingly started to suffer from wheezing and shortness of breath.

Post by **Bea** » Sun Feb 29, 2004 8:54 pm

on the subject of a respray, my new car will need the bottoms of the doors removed and new bottoms spotwelded in place, which means i have to spray the doors afterwards. i cant afford a full respray right no, but thats in the pipeline. how would i get a good colour match for the original paintwork? the car is snowberry white, i'm sure i read something about spraying a snowberry white car somewere else on this forum, but have now lost it!
thanks

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Sun Feb 29, 2004 9:19 pm

take some paint from the bottom of the door large enough for the paint shop to mix and match

Post by **Kevin** » Mon Mar 01, 2004 6:00 am

my new car will need the bottoms of the doors removed and new bottoms spotwelded in place

I hope that was an error Bea as that type of weld wont make a very good repair on the door bottoms.

Post by **Bea** » Mon Mar 01, 2004 4:12 pm

yep, dont worry, have got confuzzled! doors are getting new skins

Post by **d_harris** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 12:01 pm

On the subject of paints, the trav is supposedly in Old English white (its a respray) but having put new wings on (sprayed olde english) there is a noticable difference, is there any way of telling what the colour actually is?????

Post by **Kevin** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 1:33 pm

Thank goodness you replied to this thread with a technical type query, if there is a noticable difference there are a couple of possible causes, how long ago was the respray done and has it faded slightly or has it been sprayed Snowberry White which is a similar colour but looks slighly creamier its often mistaken for Old English White.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 2:10 pm

Kevin,
Well spotted Kev - been a while since I saw a Morris Minor related item from the brethren ;-)