tail/ stop light
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- Minor Friendly
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2008 8:42 pm
- Location: Castleford
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tail/ stop light
hi team, was fitting a new rear wing yesterday. all was well, fixed the lights back on and when putting the bulbs back in the stop/tail light inners broke. think its the sprung loaded plate that the wires are on has disintergreated. the question is can you fix this or do i need to buy a hole new lamp base?
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- Moderator
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if you've got the tools skill and patience i'm pretty sure you an transfer the bulb holder from another base unit - badly corroded base units should be easy to come by...
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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- Minor Addict
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- Location: INGLEBY NR LINCOLN
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Errr -NO! The two contacts need to be insulated from each other - and from the light base. And the whole lot needs to be 'sprung' so that it makes good contact with the bulb when you fit it into the holder. Hence - best to get the guts from another lamp and find a way to insert that - such as the silicone sealant mentioned already.



If you're really stuck and need the car on the road NOW, it's possible to solder wires direct to the bolb and sort it out properly later. Not recommending it, but if needs must...
Last edited by bigginger on Sat Dec 13, 2008 8:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
If its just the sprung bit that contacts the end of the bulb just do as above solder to bulb and to the sprung base. did this to an mgb once lasted for the rest of the time I had the car about 3 years.Bet the new owner cursed if he ever needed to do a quick bulb change.bigginger wrote:If you're really stuck and need the car on the road NOW, it's possible to solder wires direct to the bolb and sort it out properly later. Not recommending it, but if needs must...
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- Minor Fan
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- Location: Michigan, USA
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Hi,anyone tried the LED bulbs, and if so, what is your opinion? Worth the cash?
I've had a pair of tail/stop lights since Feb last year.
The seem brighter than the filament bulbs (sidelights) and the brake lights have a sharper on/off than the filament ones (my opinion)
So far, the brake light switch seems to like them as well - my theory is that switching the 2x21 watt brake lights (that's about 3.5 Amps) tends to arc cross the brake light switch and blacken the contacts.
That's for the newer switches.
All I can say is that I'm happy with the lighting - and that the brake light switch has lasted 10 months.
Colin