Replacing rear springs

Post by **Bazzalucas** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 11:02 pm

What is the purpose of the fancy-schmancy pivot pin on the rear springs? It is possible to replace it with a suitable bolt, or is that strictly a no-no?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 11:09 pm

It's built in to the design - probably to make it easier to assemble the cars when new. You would need to modify the mounting if you want to put a bolt right through - but I don't see any great difficulty doing that!

Post by **Bazzalucas** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:52 am

Thanks- I have a set of the 7-leaf (I think) springs, with the pivot pins effectively ruined. Now, if I damage the ones in the car, I'm not up a creek.

Post by **Dean** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 10:22 am

You can buy replacement pivot pins, hopefully (like mine) rust can work to your advantage when taking the old one off... just undo the nut and the rust should have seized the pivot pin solid so it doesn't spin on you.

Then bang the thing out with what ever implements ou feel necessary.. then buy..

http://www.morrisminorspares.net/shop_item.php?ID=3142

and if you want to make it look new replace:-

http://www.morrisminorspares.net/shop_item.php?ID=3143

Buying the nuts to suit the pin and nuts and bolts to secure the plate, might also be beneficial.

Post by **mike.perry** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 9:03 pm

I have to replace a rear spring on my traveller some time and I'm not looking forward to it after the performance I had getting the front spring hanger out on the other side. Still its got to be done the handling is terrible at the moment.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 9:05 pm

Soak it all well in advance with Release Oil (not WD40) - nd have a gas blow torch handy!

Post by **Dean** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 10:14 pm

The pivot pin is an interference fit anyway.... so yes very tough to get out. I ended up cutting through the small 1/4" bolts and using a cold chisel between plate and spring bracket then bashing hell until it came away!

Post by **mike.perry** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 4:18 pm

I think that was the way I did it but it was still a hell of a struggle. Must get some decent penetrating oil first this time. I didn't have any problem on the MM.

Post by **Onne** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 9:42 pm

I changed both rear springs in about an hour... they were the originals.

I do much prefer the nyloc nuts the suppliers provide these days.

Post by **jaekl** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 1:00 pm

The reason for the special bolt is to allow insertion of the rubber bushing. The rubber bushings need to be compressed to work properly. Therfore, the pair would be too long to be able to be preassembled and fit inside the hanger. Undoing the 1/4 inch bolts and removing the plate with the pin is the way to do it.