replacing timing cover oil seal

Post by **Pascal** » Mon Nov 03, 2008 11:46 am

Hi,

Is it a big job to replace the oil seal on the timing cover? Any useful tip?

Regards

Post by **Redmoggy** » Mon Nov 03, 2008 12:51 pm

Not a big job but fairly involved as you will need to remove the timing cover and fit the seal from the inside. Think it is a cork seal as well so soak it in some oil first.

Rod

Post by **simmitc** » Mon Nov 03, 2008 12:58 pm

Remove radiator to gain better access. Remove starter dog and crankshaft pulley. Remove bolts holding timing chain cover in place. NB the bolts are different lengths and the heads are different sizes. Keep them in a pattern so that you can replace them in the same holes. Remove cover. Drift out old seal. Fit new seal. Replace in reverse order, tightening the bolts in diagonal sequence to avoid distortion.

Post by **alex_holden** » Mon Nov 03, 2008 1:00 pm

Redmoggy wrote:Think it is a cork seal as well so soak it in some oil first.

It's a metal-backed rubber seal on 1098 engines.

While you've got the cover off, check how slack the timing chain is. This is an ideal opportunity to fit a duplex timing chain if it needs a new one.

Post by **Dominic** » Mon Nov 03, 2008 1:35 pm

Also remember to oil the pulley boss where it protrudes through the seal, so that the lip of the seal is lubricated and isn't damaged during fitting. Also refit the pulley before bolting the cover back, so that the pulley is centralised in the seal.

Dom.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 8:15 pm

It has never been a 'cork' seal - early engines had a compressed felt seal and later the much better rubber lip seal. Fitting 'duplex' is not all that easy - you need to countersink the two little holes going through the front plate into the front main bearing cap - and this is not so easy (but not impossible of course) with the engine in the car - and then countersunk screws must be used in these holes!

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 11:33 pm

also support the inside of the timing cover when drifting out the old seal, so that the cover does not distort. You will need a nice big ring spanner to undo the starter dog nut. you may need to replace the locking tab washer.

Post by **Luxobarge** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 2:19 pm

brixtonmorris wrote: You will need a nice big ring spanner to undo the starter dog nut.

Anybody know what size this is? Even if not taking the cover off, a spanner on this is useful for turning the engine over when setting points, timing etc. None of my spanners are large enough, except for sockets which won't go on!

Cheers

Post by **Matt** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 2:59 pm

1 5/16th inch ;)

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:18 pm

Just use the starting handle - for turning it over that is !

Post by **Luxobarge** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:23 pm

Matt wrote:1 5/16th inch ;)

Thanks Matt! I assume that's AF?

I shall now amuse myself by trying to puy one....

Cheers!

Post by **alex_holden** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:23 pm

Luxobarge wrote:I shall now amuse myself by trying to puy one....

Try sending HarryMango a PM.

Post by **Luxobarge** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:24 pm

bmcecosse wrote:Just use the starting handle - for turning it over that is !

Hehe - yes, but only really works on one direction!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:25 pm

You should always turn the engine forwards anyway - to take up any slack in the timing chain and dizzy drive!

Post by **Luxobarge** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:32 pm

bmcecosse wrote:You should always turn the engine forwards anyway - to take up any slack in the timing chain and dizzy drive!

Yes, I know, but - for example - when I was trying to find TDC using a dial guage the other day, I needed to "rock" the engine back and forth very slightly. With all the plugs out if worked OK just gripping the fan blades, but a spanner on that nut would have been neat too. I guess I love buying tools!

(Sorry about going way O/T here - just a bit of silliness!

)

Post by **MoggyTech** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:43 pm

A 33mm deep socket is a perfect fit. Much cheaper than buying an AF alternative.

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 7:50 pm

The big ring spanner is well worth the money. Engine rebuilding engaging the gear box input shaft to the clutch. Whacking it with a mallet to undo a tight starter dog nut. Get to to tool shop asap.

Post by **RogerRust** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 8:14 am

Luxobarge,

you can borrow mine (its a big ring spanner) if you come to the AGM but I will need a deposit. I'm afraid I've lost tools that way before! Then just send it back when your done.

Roger

Post by **Luxobarge** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 11:01 am

RogerRust wrote:Luxobarge,

you can borrow mine (its a big ring spanner) if you come to the AGM but I will need a deposit. I'm afraid I've lost tools that way before! Then just send it back when your done.

Roger

Roger, that's very kind, but I don't have a specific need for it right now, I just love tools, and love to have ALL the right tools for any particular car if I can, so I was just taking the opportunity to find out what size it is.

I shall have fun tracking one down, but as I say there's no rush, I don't actually need to remove this bolt at the moment.

Mind you, saying that's the kiss of death, isn't it - tempting providence and all that!

Thanks again though!

Post by **Kevin** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 12:29 pm

I shall have fun tracking one down,

Have a word with Rog he can normally help out with most spanners sizes.

http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/index.ph ... ic&t=22049