the other half is considering(read, me paying) a lead free head for her 1098. Gs Jones have them on the website at a reasnoble £150( well, its reasnoble when you're used to paying out Volvo prices )
any one used one of these-whats the quality like, any problems at all?
True ^^^ Lead memory will last a long time if you don't use the car on high speed cruises down motorways etc, however, if you plan on keeping the car for a while and the head needs work anyway, then why not do it properly. I'm not sure of the cost of the lead replacement additive but you can factor this in against the cost of head work and work out for yourself which is the best option....
[sig]8426[/sig]
Compare the Minors - Simples !! http://mog.myfreeforum.org/index.php
You really DO NOT need an 'unleaded' head ! Just set the exhaust valves to 15 thou gap - run the car on unleaded, and check the gaps say every 6 months or so. Only possible exception is where your head is already knackered, and you are planning on high mileage and hard driving - then it 'may' just be worthwhile.
you don't need to use addative. you could always buy a small block of lead and dangle it in the bottom of the tank by welding wire, thus overnight converts unleaded to leaded.
smoke me a kipper skipper i'll be back for breakfast
dustyfog wrote:you could always buy a small block of lead and dangle it in the bottom of the tank by welding wire, thus overnight converts unleaded to leaded.
Um, no... It doesn't work like that.
Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
dustyfog wrote:you don't need to use addative. you could always buy a small block of lead and dangle it in the bottom of the tank by welding wire, thus overnight converts unleaded to leaded.
The good thing about the unleaded thing is that the part of the head, the valve seat and valve that get damaged are the bits that need replacing to convert to unleaded. So run it dead then exchange it if you need too!
minor_hickup wrote:The good thing about the unleaded thing is that the part of the head, the valve seat and valve that get damaged are the bits that need replacing to convert to unleaded. So run it dead then exchange it if you need too!
Ours is a daily driver, and isn't "converted" but we're using it without additive and that's exactly the principle that I'm adopting - i.e. if it recesses the valves we'll whip the head off and get it converted, and if it doesn't it well, err, doesn't!!
Good policy there Luxo - just keep an eye on the exhaust valve gaps - if they start closing up then start looking for another head. For a 948 engine, the unleaded head from a 998 Mini is ideal, and often very cheap on ebay!
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