Fierce clutch pedal
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Fierce clutch pedal
I don't know if it is a problem or just a feature of minors. The clutch pedal on mine is a bit "fierce" - it engages sharply over a very short distance near the top of the range of movement.
I'm more or less used to treating it very gently after four months (except when I forget which car I'm driving!), but I would like to know if it means that the clutch plate is wearing thin, or something even more serious.
Any ideas please?
I'm more or less used to treating it very gently after four months (except when I forget which car I'm driving!), but I would like to know if it means that the clutch plate is wearing thin, or something even more serious.
Any ideas please?
[sig]8105[/sig]
Possibly does mean end of life approaching. You could try adjusting the length of the rod on the release mech -under the car. But could also mean oil on the clutch plate - or possibly disintegration of the clutch plate!
Other possibility is that the engine can 'rock' too much - so check the steady bar at the rear of the block is ok - and have a look under at the little wire rope restrainer at the rear of the gearbox - attaches to the gearbox crossmember. It should be 'nipped up slack' - not drum tight.
Other possibility is that the engine can 'rock' too much - so check the steady bar at the rear of the block is ok - and have a look under at the little wire rope restrainer at the rear of the gearbox - attaches to the gearbox crossmember. It should be 'nipped up slack' - not drum tight.



Thank you for the info. I've checked the steady bar and the cable attached to the gearbox crossmember as part of servicing so I think they are ok.
Is there any warning before a clutch plate gives out - or just an expensive crunch? Maybe the clutch pedal is giving me my warning now?
One last thing - my local supplier does the plate assembly for £40 or a complete clutch for £90. This would be the biggest job I've done on the car and I would happily pay the extra £50 if it makes the job a lot easier. Any guidance gratefully received.
Is there any warning before a clutch plate gives out - or just an expensive crunch? Maybe the clutch pedal is giving me my warning now?
One last thing - my local supplier does the plate assembly for £40 or a complete clutch for £90. This would be the biggest job I've done on the car and I would happily pay the extra £50 if it makes the job a lot easier. Any guidance gratefully received.
[sig]8105[/sig]
Doesn't make it any easier - it just replaces everything - which many on here will tell you to do! Being a true Scotsman (and very poor) - I would only renew the plate and the carbon thrust. But don't rush in yet! Try taking the rubber bungs out the bellhousing and look inside to see the condition of the carbon thrust - and for any oil contamination or any other signs of trouble. If it looks ok - try a 'burn in' of the clutch. Empty carpark - handbrake on - top gear selected - rev up hard and lift your foot straight off the clutch pedal. It should stall immediately. If it struggles on with clutch slipping then new clutch required. But the 'treatment' may just make the clutch a bit more useable - so worth a try!



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scots men arent poor just carefullput the whole clutch in on very close inspection on my clutch the thrust was cracked pressure plate showing some sign of wearclutch plate could have been used again probably caused by previous bad adjustment, do the lot and be done with it its nice to have a nice new working clutch,just my opinion but i am sure some one will shoot me down,,grandad
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Well I would check the clutch adjustment first as there should be some free play at the top of the clutch pedal and normally if the adjustment on the rod is at the end of its travel it will need replacing in the near future, also I am with Grandad when it comes to clutch replacement if it needs doing replace the whole lot.
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
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clutch
for the bit extra it will costs not worth messing about although they are not to bad to do its still a bit of a rave ,,,grandadKevin wrote:Well I would check the clutch adjustment first as there should be some free play at the top of the clutch pedal and normally if the adjustment on the rod is at the end of its travel it will need replacing in the near future, also I am with Grandad when it comes to clutch replacement if it needs doing replace the whole lot.
Thanks guys, it's great to be able to talk to people who know what they are doing. The free play on the pedal is ok, and the adjustment rod is at the end of its travel.
I'm going to try inspecting the innards. I take it the rubber bungs can be accessed without dropping the gear box - I think I've found them on a diagram. Better look for a torch ...
I'm going to try inspecting the innards. I take it the rubber bungs can be accessed without dropping the gear box - I think I've found them on a diagram. Better look for a torch ...
[sig]8105[/sig]
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or if the linkages / linkage bushes are shot!The adjustment rod shouln't run out of travel unless there is excessive wear in the thrust or cluch plate or the pressure plate is knackered...
Poorly linkages can give a very poor clutch bite. I've seen many where the linkage bushes are worn through and the intermediate shaft is eating into the housings

Added to that friction between the clutch pedal shaft and brake pedal can make clutch operation worse.
Replacing just the disk can be a false economy on a modern car. A diaphragm spring clutch cover can wear as much as the disk and have it's own set of problems and a worn "self adjusting clutch cover" refitted over a new disk will not work.
However on a Minor the clutch cover is made with good old compression spring assemblies (no new fangled diaphragm springs let alone self adjusters!). Judgment is needed regarding wear on the pressure plate surface and pivots but replacement need not be an automatic choice.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
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Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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I would certainly look at the linkage first. This is often the cause of clutch problems and if it fails all together you will be stuck with no clutch.
In any case its easier than taking the engine out.
All of the components can wear and it adds up to a lot of slack.
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In any case its easier than taking the engine out.
All of the components can wear and it adds up to a lot of slack.
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This message board is like a family - you can't choose the other members!! But remember engine oil is thicker than water.
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If I may offer a humble opinion too - in addition to all the good advice above - and it is good advice IMHO - as you mentioned in your original post, you may find that it's just a feature of Minors - all those that I have driven have had clutches that felt slightly more "sudden" than most modern cars, I think it's to do with the compression spring versus diaphragm spring design.
Of course if yours is a LOT more harsh than a modern, then maybe there's a problem - I'm just saying that there's also a possibility that there's nothing much actually wrong with your car!
Just how "harsh" is it??
Cheers!
Of course if yours is a LOT more harsh than a modern, then maybe there's a problem - I'm just saying that there's also a possibility that there's nothing much actually wrong with your car!
Just how "harsh" is it??
Cheers!

Lots more good suggestions, thanks.
Press the pedal down 6 inches, lift the pedal 5 inches - nothing happens (just sit at the lights revving like a maniac).
Lift the pedal another half inch and the clutch engages (take off like a kangaroo).
Release the pedal the last half inch of free play (can't remember the exact free play but it was right when I measured it).
On my boring modern car the clutch bites over the middle two inches of a six inch travel.
When I forget which car I'm driving:Just how "harsh" is it??
Press the pedal down 6 inches, lift the pedal 5 inches - nothing happens (just sit at the lights revving like a maniac).
Lift the pedal another half inch and the clutch engages (take off like a kangaroo).
Release the pedal the last half inch of free play (can't remember the exact free play but it was right when I measured it).
On my boring modern car the clutch bites over the middle two inches of a six inch travel.
[sig]8105[/sig]