Rear Axle Swap

Post by **MColes** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 6:10 pm

So I've sourced myself a rear axle and I'll be fitting it on the weekend fingers crossed

Just wondering are there any specific torque settings that should be applied to the U clamps that clamp the axle to the spring? And are there any other torque settings that are useful to know when doing this job?

Any other comments that would make the job easier would also be appreciated

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 8:03 pm

I would leave the springs in place if you are confident of being able to slide the old axle out and the new one in on top of the springs. Otherwise drop maybe one side spring at the rear at remove/fit axle that way. Make sure you have GOOD rear bump stops ready to fit - these are v important- and good idea to drown the U bolt nuts in release oil as far as possible before you start. Are you swapping brakes from old axle to new - or does the 'new' come complete with brakes ? Best to drain it and refill with new EP90 oil while you are in there. And make sure you bhave some brake fluid on hand to bleed through the brakes! It's not a difficult job - just a bit heavy moving the old axle out and the new one in. Good luck!

Post by **Dean** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 9:00 pm

Like mine, the U bolts were damn damn damn tight to get off (even after a good dose of the loosening stuff), in fact mine sheared. Anyway when you have the new axle in place don't tighten the U bolts right up tight while on the jack (just nip them). Re fit your wheels then lower the car down first so the springs take the weight of the car and let the everything find it's position. Relift the car back up and tighten the ubolts (this will be the last part of the job). Apparently it shortens the life of the leaf springs if this is not done.

I think I've explained that well enough!!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 11:48 am

As always with suspension - tighten fully when car is on it's wheels again. U bolt nuts can be slobbered with grease before and after fitting to give a chance next time!

Post by **polo2k** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 11:58 am

I saw a tip in one of the mags recently to use plastic tube over the exposed threads with a slober of grease to stop them becoming lock nuts.

Post by **MColes** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 7:41 pm

We found an axle. Complete fluke a guy just happened to go into the garage where my brother works looking for parts for his morris minor, the day after my axle went, they got talking and he just happened to have a spare axle only thing was it was still on the car he was breaking for spares. But for 25 quid instead of the 80 which was the cheapest I could find online I was willing to get my hands dirty

So got up early today (it was still dark

haven't been up and about so early in years

) and went to get the axle.

The very sad looking moggy we took the axle off.

And when we looked in the boot we had the shock of our lives. Turns out there was a mummified moggy in the moggy

. Yes it is for real

So we got home. Stripped my car to bits and fitted the rear axle. I took a pic of the crack in my axle it was pretty bad. No wonder it was loosing a lot of oil

So it all got sprayed in black hammerite before it went on and looked well tidy. Took it for a test drive and my heart sank. There's a knocking on the back axle somewhere

It was too dark to mess about anymore so it's a job for tomorrow now. Hopefully it's just the brakes need adjusting. If it's the worse case scenario and I need to swap the diff with the one off my original axle I'll scream!!!!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 7:44 pm

At £25 you got a good deal. Even if the diff is dead - the spare half shafts and brake parts are worth that alone. Well done swapping them over - maybe the prop shaft bolts are not tight enough, hence the knock ? And are the wheels done up tight ????

Post by **MColes** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 7:47 pm

I'm going to tripely check every nut and bolt involved tomorrow to make sure they're all nice and tight. If that does not cure it I'll try the half-shafts from my original axle as they're still good and see if that cures it. Wanna check every possible problem before I strip the diff

Post by **MColes** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 3:55 pm

Solved the problem between dodging the rain

Turned out to be the shock absorber wasn't done up tight enough on the bracket.

Which is strange coz I didn't take them off the bracket to change the axle. But it's sorted now so I'm happy

Looked under the bonnet and my happiness died

Seems I need to change the headgasket

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 3:58 pm

Well done with that axle -and that car you got old axle off - it's still got it's kingpins - grab them quick!!
Why do you think you need head gasket change ?

Post by **MColes** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 5:48 pm

The guy whos car it is is using the car I took the parts off as a doner for the convertible he's restoring so I don't know if he'll let them go. He says that if I ever do need any more bits I can have them if he don't need them. I hope nothing ever happens to my kingpins but if it does at least I know where I'm likely to find a replacement

Think the head gasket is gone because when I looked under the bonnet when the engine was running there was oil bubbling out from around the gasket

It's all part of the fun

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 5:52 pm

No - don't worry about that - but could be a good idea to tighten it down with a torque wrench to 44 ft lbf (NOT on the 4 little rocker shaft nuts - they are much less!) - and then re-adjust the valve gaps.

Post by **MColes** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:07 pm

so the gasket might not be gone???

Post by **alex_holden** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:11 pm

A compression test will reveal if it has gone or not.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:45 pm

No -gasket gone is much worse than a few bubbles of oil coming out the side! Wipe it away and tighten down. If it turns into a 'stream' of oil - well yes you probably do need to do something about it!

Post by **Matt** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 7:31 pm

I agree with BMC on this one

Tighten the head bolts to 44ftlbs, if that doesn't stop it you could go up to about 55ft/lbs (from experience...) but dont blame me if a stud snaps..... (last one that snapped for me was at 65)

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 7:41 pm

Welllll - the later studs with 'dimples' or even better - a 'Y' on the top can take a bit more torque. But I really do suggest 44 max on the old Minor studs - and make sure the threads are oiled, not dry. If using the very latest flanged nuts and 'Y' studs - then 50 ft lbf is the torque recommended for the later engines.

Post by **Mogwai** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 8:01 pm

have had a gasket leak oil before from an area where there are no oilways. It turned out to be coming out between the layers of the headgasket. as it was sealing against the head & block ok there were no running problems it just made a mess