I'll take the other side of that bet - i.e. my money says it's not headgasket.My money is on head gasket - again.
o lordy its that noise again (universal joint failure)
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Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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- Minor Fan
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Now that reminds me of my blown head gasket on my Mini (a few years ago now) it would run but made a very strange noise - the gasket was blown between 2 cylinders. You could be onto something therebmcecosse wrote:Well - in top gear the laygear does nothing - but it could be ! My money is on head gasket - again.

A compression test would confirm or otherwise.
[sig]8143[/sig]
Hey, it's me again. Gosh, a lot of thinking going on!
Thank you.
I went away and tried not to think about it for a bit, and then I took it out for another test drive this morning to get some more thoughts, as I'd been a bit flustered the other day.
The engine runs smooth and sweet in neutral, on tickover and gunning it. There's oil pressure, the coolant is not disappearing, there's no untoward blowing out of the rocker cover cap.
On setting out, putting it into gear and moving off there was a little CLANK. This clank has been there on moving off for ages and ages, and I'd thought it was the exhaust rattling, but I'm now pretty sure it isn't.
The squeaking/scraping noise came up again on moving off, but it ran smoothly for a few minutes, then the vibration started again. A really quite bad vibration. Coasting downhill in neutral, and with the engine switched off, the vibration remained. Though it was worse when the engine was engaged and under load.
When I said 'power loss', it may be misleading. I think that it was more mechanical resistance than engine power loss.
I think I'd better look at the rear axle, perhaps. Unfortunately, the jacking slot cracked off the other day and so I've got to go find me a different jack.
Again, thank you for your suggestions. I'm sorry if I've been less than clear in my descriptions.
...and, sorry to mention it, Luxobarge, but I'm a *shhhh* she


I went away and tried not to think about it for a bit, and then I took it out for another test drive this morning to get some more thoughts, as I'd been a bit flustered the other day.
The engine runs smooth and sweet in neutral, on tickover and gunning it. There's oil pressure, the coolant is not disappearing, there's no untoward blowing out of the rocker cover cap.
On setting out, putting it into gear and moving off there was a little CLANK. This clank has been there on moving off for ages and ages, and I'd thought it was the exhaust rattling, but I'm now pretty sure it isn't.
The squeaking/scraping noise came up again on moving off, but it ran smoothly for a few minutes, then the vibration started again. A really quite bad vibration. Coasting downhill in neutral, and with the engine switched off, the vibration remained. Though it was worse when the engine was engaged and under load.
When I said 'power loss', it may be misleading. I think that it was more mechanical resistance than engine power loss.
I think I'd better look at the rear axle, perhaps. Unfortunately, the jacking slot cracked off the other day and so I've got to go find me a different jack.
Again, thank you for your suggestions. I'm sorry if I've been less than clear in my descriptions.
...and, sorry to mention it, Luxobarge, but I'm a *shhhh* she

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- Minor Fan
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Fantastic - well done, definately sounds like you've found the cause, and not nearly as expensive/horrible as it coul dbe, either!Dru wrote:Woot! (as the Young One is fond of saying...)
I've just been ferreting about underneath. Drained diff oil. Clean. More brown than black, even.
Forward UJ, though, was graunchy and Norrible. There's lots of play in it, and nasty grindiness. So the way ahead is clear.![]()
Now, where's the big book?
So - not headgasket and not gearbox either! Gah - another rubbish diagnosis! Hehe!




Let us know how you get on.....
Cheers


Here's hoping! I'll be cycling over to Mr Ware's tomorrow to pick up a new UJ...
I suppose that diagnosing over the internet is rather tricky. Reminds me of that story about three blind folk bumping into an elephant or some such animal, and all concluding different things about the nature of the beast, depending upon which bit they'd bumped into. But, since I suspect that it may be smutty, I shall swiftly gloss over that....
I suppose that diagnosing over the internet is rather tricky. Reminds me of that story about three blind folk bumping into an elephant or some such animal, and all concluding different things about the nature of the beast, depending upon which bit they'd bumped into. But, since I suspect that it may be smutty, I shall swiftly gloss over that....

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That was my next ghuess after you'd mentioned speed reelated vibration.Forward UJ, though, was graunchy and Norrible. There's lots of play in it, and nasty grindiness. So the way ahead is clear
I'm glad all the suggestions were appreciated.Again, thank you for your suggestions. I'm sorry if I've been less than clear in my descriptions.
...and, sorry to mention it, Luxobarge, but I'm a *shhhh* she
As for being a she, it shouldn't make a lot of difference. Some people have an aptitude for fixing mechanical things and some don't. If you have a bit of an aptitude and can learn from advice and from experience (trial and error), you can go a long way.
The elephant thing, nothing smutty in that one.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

Thank goodness it's not that head gasket then ! The 'power loss' was giving me that idea. Not easy to change a UJ - you may do better to pick up a secondhand prop shaft and stick that on - then sort out the old shaft at leisure!
So - you 'win' Ray - but hardly a fair bet if I say head gasket, and you say it's 'something else'!!
So - you 'win' Ray - but hardly a fair bet if I say head gasket, and you say it's 'something else'!!



I agree, Ray, ...just the occasional pronoun anxiety
You are quite right, BMCE; it isn't an easy job, is it?
I tapped gently as recommended in the book.
Then I hit it.
And put the blow torch on it.
And soused it in release oil.
And hit it some more.
And finally drifted the bearing cups out with a copper mallet and 17mm socket from the other side, using a bigger socket to rest the yoke on while drifting it, until they were far out enough to grab them with a Mole grip.
Does that make sense?
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/belvedere/2972288446/" title="moggy UJ by Dru Marland, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3269/297 ... 4f6d88.jpg" width="500" height="423" alt="moggy UJ" /></a>
...as you see, the UJ is a mess, but the yokes were mercifully OK with a bit of cleaning up.
And now, after a few stressy weeks, the Trav is running seeeeeeeetly.
Is life not good?

You are quite right, BMCE; it isn't an easy job, is it?
I tapped gently as recommended in the book.
Then I hit it.
And put the blow torch on it.
And soused it in release oil.
And hit it some more.
And finally drifted the bearing cups out with a copper mallet and 17mm socket from the other side, using a bigger socket to rest the yoke on while drifting it, until they were far out enough to grab them with a Mole grip.
Does that make sense?
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/belvedere/2972288446/" title="moggy UJ by Dru Marland, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3269/297 ... 4f6d88.jpg" width="500" height="423" alt="moggy UJ" /></a>
...as you see, the UJ is a mess, but the yokes were mercifully OK with a bit of cleaning up.
And now, after a few stressy weeks, the Trav is running seeeeeeeetly.

Is life not good?
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I'm impressed you got this far without much hassle - at this rate you'll soon be the one on here giving good advice.And finally drifted the bearing cups out with a copper mallet and 17mm socket from the other side, using a bigger socket to rest the yoke on while drifting it, until they were far out enough to grab them with a Mole grip.
Fitting the new UJ can often be more difficult than removal! If any of the pesky little rollers move out of place you only find out when the cap refuses to move the last 1mm. Use some thick grease to keep em in place, but it still takes a bit of good luck.
Added to that you need to fettle the circlip grooves to remove any sharp edges. The seals on the new cap can get shredded if there are sharp edges to get past

Last did one of these about 3 years ago but my memory is fuzzy apart form the bit about going for bigger and bigger hammers to remove the old one.
On the new one I bought the seals were oversize so wouldn't fit without getting damaged. the supplier gave me the 'option' to buy another to replace the faulty one they supplied

The second one was just as bad (despite their assurances over the phone about the size of the seals - the new one came in a sealed packet so had not been checked)
On assembly one of the caps can be pre-fitted to the yoke but it has to be out of position to get the yoke in, so doesn't help a lot.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

Thanks, Luxobarge, and here's hoping! -it's a bit worrying that I'd done a couple of hundred miles with that problem developing. Still, no harm done...
The UJ and a replacement set of bolts for the shaft coupling cost £11, BMCE. So it was a very cheap fix.
Yes, Ray, getting the bearings in was a bit stiff going. Next time (of course, there won't be a next time....
) I'll dress the holes more thoroughly.
There's one worry left over; I tried and failed to put the long-tubed grease nipple from the old UJ onto the replacement. I guess they're different threads. Unfortunately, I can't get the head of my grease gun onto the as-fitted nipple when it's all assembled. So I guess the options are:
The UJ and a replacement set of bolts for the shaft coupling cost £11, BMCE. So it was a very cheap fix.

Yes, Ray, getting the bearings in was a bit stiff going. Next time (of course, there won't be a next time....

There's one worry left over; I tried and failed to put the long-tubed grease nipple from the old UJ onto the replacement. I guess they're different threads. Unfortunately, I can't get the head of my grease gun onto the as-fitted nipple when it's all assembled. So I guess the options are:
- find a different long-tubed nipple
find a different head for the grease gun
wait until this UJ self-destructs, and then replace it...
I'm stunned-surely you didn't manage to re-assemble it with hammers? I've never done that without jjjjiggling those rollers about, water pump grease or not!! Also never seem able to get that long nipple in, and you'll never get the gun on a short nipple. Just use the short one as a dust cap. Lots and lots of modern UJ's aren't greaseable, so it shouldn't fail too soon! 

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