Water leak

Post by **fweddy** » Sat Feb 07, 2004 9:32 am

Can someone tell me I don't need to take the head off to replace the short vertical hose on the front of the engine from the head down that leaks on mine?

Just got it running and it makes puddles everywhere.

Post by **Arfron** » Sat Feb 07, 2004 10:11 am

I have replaced the hose many times on 1100 and minis , which amounts to the same thing as on the Moggy. Undo the clips and cut off the hose, in the middle . ( You are not going to us it again !!) It can be a bit of a fiddle !!

You can use the corrugated type of hose part 10M228, or a bit of heater hose. To assemble--put the small clips on hose then ,either, compress the corrugated hose and fiddle both ens onto the two adaptors. The use of liquid soap is best !! If you use the straight hose tactic, the method is to bend the hose in half and wangle the ends onto the adaptors -- again fit the clips first ,but slide the clips to the end you fixed first , then slide them around to fit the other end -- replace the clips in the correct location + tighten up !! A bit of a fiddle to say the least !!

No doubt other members will have other ideas ? However, the above methods worked for me . Best of luck ( Ps. Do Not take of the head -- that's the last resort ! )

Arfron

Post by **rayofleamington** » Sat Feb 07, 2004 3:49 pm

Make sure the 2 short metal pipes are ok before you refit the hose. Sometimes the corrode away but if they aren't so bed then clean them up with some emery.
The corrugated hoses are the easiest to fit, but as they normally come with narrow hose clips which are more likely to leak. One advantage of using the straight hose is you can get normal hose clips and is less likely to leak.

If the metal pipe from the head is corroded away then you're gonna have serious trouble to fix it, but fortunately that's rare. If the metal pipe from the waterpump is rotted away then you'll need a new waterpump.

Post by **Matt** » Sun Feb 08, 2004 3:48 pm

we did exactly that - forgot to fit the bypass hose, and the corrugated one worked fine......... but it did have a spangly new waterpump (I think - well we did recon the engine)

Post by **salty_monk** » Mon Feb 09, 2004 1:13 pm

Hmm, mine's leaking from there too but I'm pretty sure the gland seal has gone on the waterpump too so was going to do them at the same time.
With water pump out I'd imagine this is a fairly simple job...

Anything anyone wants to tell me to watch out for whilst doing it?? Obviously I'm going to change the fan belt too; out of interest does anyon have the belt's part number? I have one which I was given & am unsure it's correct. I'll try to find it later in the week & post the number or a picture....

Post by **Cam** » Mon Feb 09, 2004 2:03 pm

Take your old belt into Halfords and compare it to the ones in there.

Post by **Gareth** » Mon Feb 09, 2004 2:35 pm

If you've got an alternator, a Mini 850 belt fits...

Post by **Kevin** » Mon Feb 09, 2004 4:39 pm

With water pump out I'd imagine this is a fairly simple job...

Yes it is and use the correct straight hose as it lasts longer, if the hose is tight chuch it in some hot water to soften it up a bit and some washing up liquid as suggested earlier if needed

Post by **salty_monk** » Mon Feb 09, 2004 6:51 pm

Washing up liquid is handy as a lubricant but did you know it has a very high salt content??
That's why you should never wash your car with it...

Post by **57traveller** » Tue Feb 10, 2004 9:01 am

Green Swarfega is also a good lubricant for helping hoses into position. Cleans your hands at the same time!

Post by **Cam** » Tue Feb 10, 2004 9:28 am

KY jelly is a really good lubricant and does not attack anything. But it can be a bit embarrasing to buy!

Post by **ColinP** » Tue Feb 10, 2004 12:22 pm

Just a couple of tips from my experience last year....

1) get all the hoses & clips you are going to replace before hand.

2) remove the radiator - it's only 4 bolts and it's much easier without it (I've done both!)

3) While the radiator's out, flush it properly.

4) Replacing the water pump (if needed) - the bypass hose is a doddle now (assuming the thermostat housings' ok)

5) check the water pump seals on the cleaned mating surfaces - I bought an alloy one - the blind holes on the pump body where the locating pins on the engine block enter were too shallow to allow the pump to seal on the block!

6) put it all back together with good quality anti-freeze/inhibitor.

7) Have a nice cup of tea!

Colin

Post by **Kevin** » Wed Feb 11, 2004 1:36 pm

Washing up liquid is handy as a lubricant but did you know it has a very high salt content??
That's why you should never wash your car with it...

You are right Salty Monk I should have said only use Fairy Liquid as its safe to use on rubber parts.

Post by **salty_monk** » Wed Feb 11, 2004 2:00 pm

Fairy Liquid doesn't have any salt in it?? Kind to hands kind to hoses.....

No really just thinking along the lines that any that gets into the inside of the tube is going to end up in the engine & salt in the engine can't be good...

Could flush it through again after fitting it I suppose though.

Thanks for the tips Colin, I'll take the radiator out....

Billy, if you read this, couldn't get your pole to work earlier but I think the upgrades have made it slightly less user friendly as you have to "post reply" now which involves loading another page etc, also the quote function is more difficult.
On the plus side it looks like we have lots of new faces to play with....

By the way, you guys do a great job so don't take comments badly; was aiming to be constructive!

Post by **fweddy** » Wed Feb 11, 2004 7:29 pm

Got myself a few other bits yesterday including a replacement hose for this job - yet to fit it but I'm concentrating on other bits at present.

Aye those fluffy things that go in the door shell on either side of the glass of the winding window (the bit under where you put your elbow out the window) are they normally expensive? Got some for both side doors yesterday and they cost me $90NZD (£30 approx) - That was with $2 off too!

Post by **Willie** » Wed Feb 11, 2004 7:40 pm

You should have saved your money and bought the modern
rubber type (available from Minor dealers) for the outer
sides. they seal much more effectively, they stop the glass
from wobbling and they even cut down on the draughts.

Post by **fweddy** » Thu Feb 12, 2004 12:25 am

ok Willie - is the price difference much?

I guess its partly a problem of availability here - I understood there were two types but didn't come across them here.

The guy I normally buy from is very ill and has stopped ordering and is just selling stuff off. He's a great chap very friendly and helpful. He works from his home and will stop to have a yarn. He had none left so I went to another supplier but I don't really like going there - While they have never been outright rude to me, they don't seem to have the time of day for you, kurt in their conversations and just want to sell parts.

Post by **Kevin** » Thu Feb 12, 2004 9:34 am

Fweddy I have just ordered some I will let you know what I paid when they arrive.

Post by **fweddy** » Thu Feb 12, 2004 7:24 pm

Great - thanks Kevin - Also if any one knows the price over there of the ones I bought then I'll know the approx difference. Not that it really matters now but still curious. If they are considerablly cheaper it may be an option for me to get parts shipped especially - but still I need to considerthe hassle factor and time delay.

Post by **Kevin** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 12:17 pm

Right Fweddy the cost of the parts from Bull Motif, this is without our Vat tax which you would not pay anyway
EXC103 Velvet/Rubber Channel top door frame x 2 £3:52
EXC104 " " " side door frame x 4 £8:92
EXC105 Weather strip for door glass with clips x 2 £5:22
EXC105A New Lip Seal window brush x 2 £10:92
EXC106 Clips for 105A x 12 £1:68
This is a complete set for a 2 Door saloon if its any help the screen rubbers are £14:95 for the front and £17:05 for the rear

Morris Minor Owners Club

Water leak

Water leak

By- pass hose

fluffy bits