Removing Engine and Gearbox

Post by **MattRuch** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:28 pm

I have just returned from a nearly 2000 mile trip in my Morris to Germany and back. In all that time, I replaced one track rod end and adjusted the clutch. I am so amazed at this little car.

I'm about to undertake a bit of a job on the car.

The clutch appears to be needing replacement. It judders a lot in reverse and leaves a lovely lingering burning scent in the process.

Since I've owned the car (about 6 months) I've learned to keep my left hand on the gearknob when reversing because it tends to jump out of gear otherwise.

The car is a 1969 two-door saloon with 1098 engine and four-speed gearbox

I just purchased an engine hoist and plan to pull the engine for a rebuild, replace the clutch and give the gearbox some attention. Whilst it is out I will pull all ancillaries from the engine bay and give the engine bay a re-spray.

First question: Is it preferable to put the front up on a ramp (so the car will be at a nose-up angle), or have the entire car up on axle stands (so it is level)? The only reason I ask is that I don't fit under the car otherwise.

I will rebuild the engine (no apparent problems, just weeps a fair amount of oil) and I have a great machine shop nearby. I'm happy to do the engine myself, but I find the gearbox a bit daunting.

Second and third questions: Can anyone recommend a good shop to have the gearbox rebuilt? Any ideas on an approximate cost?

Thank you in advance

Matt

Post by **FrankM83** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:36 pm

Hi well I suggets you remove , inner gearbox cover,front panel and bonnet, for ease of work, never really remember needing going under the car escept to remove the clutch linkage to remove an engine so maybe you can just work like that

linearaudio · Post by **linearaudio** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 8:35 pm

Just before you strip the box down- mine was jumping out of reverse when I got it, someone suggested trying a different gear lever. I wasn't convinced, however when I tried a "new" gear lever, the problem disappeared. Lovely cheap surprise!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 9:25 pm

If the gearbox is otherwise ok - I would leave well alone - and see the interesting comment above ^^^. Worth a try!
As for engine and box removal - it's often handy to be able to move the car away once the power unit is on the hoist - so i would keep it on the floor. Do all the dis-connecting stuff on ramps - but then roll it down to floor level before hoisting. I would take out the engine alone - and then the box if I was doing the job, rather than struggle with the combined weight and awkwardness. But - it's up to you really.

Post by **Matt** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 12:30 am

I take out both at the same time... much easier
but I do have an engine crane

Post by **MattRuch** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 6:26 am

Thank you all for your replies and PMs.

I can't picture in my head how a gear lever can make a difference...but what a great way to try to fix the issue! Is it possible to replace the gear lever with the gearbox in situ? I'll look in the manuals and perhaps it will be apparent to me then.

Post by **Matt** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 6:47 am

Its very easy.

unscrew the gearknob, undo the 6(?) screws holding the metal plate around the gearstick down, lift that off. There are 3 bolts that hold the gearstick securing plate down. To be on the safe side put the gearstick in neutral before you remove it, its easier to put the new stick in then

.

Do the reverse to put it back in

linearaudio · Post by **linearaudio** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:50 pm

The "new" gearlever was a bit less floaty in operation, so original must have had some wear somewhere, but comparing the two side by side, I couldn't see enough to make a difference- but it did! Hope you're similarly lucky

Post by **Onne** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:12 pm

Make sure if you do this job that you don't lose the little spring that lurks under the gearlever.

Post by **MGFmad** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:41 pm

I removed my engine separately from the gearbox, I had the car on axle stands and removed the front grille panel so I didn't have to lift the engine that much for clearance, just enough for the sump to clear the front cross member then just wheel it out (if using an engine crane)

Post by **MattRuch** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 5:49 pm

Thanks again...that all makes sense. I'm trying to locate a new gear lever now...

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 5:58 pm

Why not just take the lever out - and see if that spring is present ? That may be the problem. Jumping out of reverse is not a common problem - unless it also jumps out of 1st or 2nd ?

Post by **IslipMinor** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:09 pm

Don't forget that the 1098 ribcase gear lever is not the same as the 948 smoothcase one. Fitting a 948 lever into a 1098 box gives a very sloppy action - how do I know???

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:15 pm

Hmm - didn't know there was a difference ! Sure it's not just one more worn than t'other?

Post by **MattRuch** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:20 pm

Nope...it only misbehaves in reverse...

linearaudio · Post by **linearaudio** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 7:12 pm

Ah-ha. The"Minor Maniacs" report for mine said they thought it might have the wrong lever fitted. (Still couldn't see much difference). AND- mine was originally a 948 car so maybe when converted someone mixed the levers up!! Light bulb begins to illuminate!

Post by **Chadbrook** » Sat Oct 18, 2008 3:55 am

There is always the option of an ebay gearbox

they are pretty cheap and you can check it all works like the manual says it should before you fit it... then do it all over again with the box you take out

and have a spare