Engine Steady Bar

Post by **Lukey** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 5:31 pm

Hello everyone, would somebody be able to post a close-up picture of where there engine steady bar attaches to the bulkhead? I've bought one from esm I know the rough location but appears to be no where to attach it.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 5:58 pm

Is this a replacement non-standard steady bar ? If so - I believe it uses the previously unused bolt holes alongside the offside damper on the crossmember. Stnadard bar connects to a bracket blow the battery box - it's often broken off - hence use of the non-standard bar.

Post by **simmitc** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 6:12 pm

There are two types of steady bar from ESM. Did you purchase MNT146 or MNT146A?

Post by **Lukey** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 6:41 pm

It's the MNT146,

Here's the orignial in it's current condition

Just resting on the bulkhead.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:04 pm

Yes - it's snapped off. You need the type that uses the holes by the damper.

Post by **jonathon** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:08 pm

Or simply weld it back on.
Not a great fan of the long steady bar, looks as if it will allow too much flex over its length.

Post by **Lukey** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:14 pm

Ah, So that is the bracket that has snapped then

. I had assumed that it wasn't the bracket for some reason. Thanks anyway.

Post by **simmitc** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:16 pm

You can use either of the options from ESM, and as you've got the MNT146 then go with that. One caveat: it relies on the metal beneath the battery box being OK, and not too corroded.

The new assembly has a plate with two studs and an angled end. Position this plate so that the angled end is in roughly the same position as your existing bracket that has fractured. Mark the location of the studs against the body below the batteyr box and above the cross member. Drill two holes in the body to match the studs, then slide the plate underneath the battery box and bring the studs through the holes. Add the flat plate with two holes and then put on lock washers and nuts; and tighten up.

The two plates are designed to clamp the body between them, and the angled plate ends up with its large hole in the same place as your old bracket. You can then adjust the new rod and rubber mountings to suit.

The original bracket would have been welded in place; the new one is designed to avoid having to do that. Hope that all makes sense. If you're still stuck then I'll see if I can find a photograph for you.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:16 pm

That descrption ^^^^ sounds very much like my Traveller, and it's worked fine for many years so far.
Not too easy to get access for welding it back together - but good luck!

Post by **simmitc** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:24 pm

Just looked at ESM's picture and seen that the flat plate is not included. However, the rest of my notes remain valid, the replacement bracket is still held in place by the nuts, there is no need to weld.

Post by **Lukey** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:26 pm

Fantastic, thank you for the help.

Post by **jonathon** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:30 pm

The broken bracket you have in view is the end of a full bracket that runs about 2" along the vertical plate on the battery box,just above the bulkhead X member. You can easily make this bracket from 4mm plate drilled with the correct sized hole at one end.(use the original as a sample) then weld to the vertical plate using plug welds or simply weld to the front face, if as Simmitc says, the steelwork is strong enough (not too corroded)

Post by **mogatron** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 10:13 pm

how tight should you do the bar up?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 10:33 pm

Just 'nipped up' - certainly not so tight it is pulling the engine sideways - it's a 'steady bar' - not a restraint!