Not started in years, what to do first?
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- Minor Friendly
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Oh sorry, yes user id is hidden but hovering the mouse/clicking on the bidders will show you what percentage of bid activity they've had with the seller. It's when the listing is a private one that things change: you cannot check bid history and if feedback is left then it cannot be viewed. This encourages schill bidding and dodgy practises. eBay actually announced a year or two ago they were going to stop private listings but being the spineless, grabbing swines they are they changed their mind when they thought they might lose custom over it.
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- Minor Friendly
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Evening all! Right, after a bit of a run round with a new universal pump I'm not at all happy it's afe or a good idea and have now found somehere I can get an original pump. Now, just to be right nuisance, can someone please show me pictures of the bits where the fuel lines go in and out of the original type pump and, just as importantly, the end of the fuel line where the pipe from the tank goes into the pump and the bit where it goes from the pump to the carb please?
It's just I strongly suspect the end of the fuel line from tank to pump and the line from pump to carb are not original and I may need extra fitting for these. Thanks and regards,
*Edit: from this picture what I'd need to know is how does the fuel line connect to the inlet/outlet which I've circled black please, and also assuming the part I've circled red is either the earth point or where the positive point is connected, fair to assume the reverse one is also fitted on the pump somewhere? Sorry if that sounds daft and I hope it makes sense...

It's just I strongly suspect the end of the fuel line from tank to pump and the line from pump to carb are not original and I may need extra fitting for these. Thanks and regards,
*Edit: from this picture what I'd need to know is how does the fuel line connect to the inlet/outlet which I've circled black please, and also assuming the part I've circled red is either the earth point or where the positive point is connected, fair to assume the reverse one is also fitted on the pump somewhere? Sorry if that sounds daft and I hope it makes sense...

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- Minor Legend
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Ok the red circle bit connects to the cable coming through the baulk head. A black earth goes from a screw on the base to the battery box.
You may just be able to make out the black fuel line jubilee clipped to the brass shank type outlet, which goes to the carb. The pipe from the fuel tank screws onto the bit you have circled.
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You may just be able to make out the black fuel line jubilee clipped to the brass shank type outlet, which goes to the carb. The pipe from the fuel tank screws onto the bit you have circled.

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Last edited by Dean on Tue Oct 07, 2008 7:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
My Minor:
A Clarendon Grey 1953 4 Door Series II.
MMOC - 66535

A Clarendon Grey 1953 4 Door Series II.
MMOC - 66535
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- Minor Legend
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Bit of a pain when people chop the fitting off the end of the fuel line so they can bodge a non-standard pump in place of the SU one. You can buy a new copper line but it's not terribly cheap and there's a risk when removing the old one that you could have trouble getting the fitting at the fuel tank end undone.
http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... cts_id=148
http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... cts_id=148


Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
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- Minor Friendly
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Cheers peeps.
BMC, I certainly did, seemed easier as picture was quite clear!
Dean: many thanks.
Alex: That's exactly what happened by the look of it. Is there a way I could have a fitting attached to the pump so I could run braided fuel hose between end of line and pump do you think?
Thanks for the link to the fuel line, I'll have a look at that and my own line and see if it looks 'do-able'. Would soaking the fuel tank end in WD40 (or similar) be a good idea the day before removal and (potentially daft question sorry) would removing it from tank end result in the petrol in the tank leaking out everywhere?
Thanks and regards
BMC, I certainly did, seemed easier as picture was quite clear!
Dean: many thanks.
Alex: That's exactly what happened by the look of it. Is there a way I could have a fitting attached to the pump so I could run braided fuel hose between end of line and pump do you think?
Thanks for the link to the fuel line, I'll have a look at that and my own line and see if it looks 'do-able'. Would soaking the fuel tank end in WD40 (or similar) be a good idea the day before removal and (potentially daft question sorry) would removing it from tank end result in the petrol in the tank leaking out everywhere?
Thanks and regards
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- Minor Legend
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You could try posting a wanted ad on here for an old fitting - somebody might have one lying around.
Plus Gas works better than WD40 for freeing off seized bolts and things. No guarantee though, and you obviously can't use heat on that fitting if it doesn't want to come undone.
Petrol shouldn't pour out if you remove the pipe as long as the level in the tank is below that of the fitting.
Plus Gas works better than WD40 for freeing off seized bolts and things. No guarantee though, and you obviously can't use heat on that fitting if it doesn't want to come undone.
Petrol shouldn't pour out if you remove the pipe as long as the level in the tank is below that of the fitting.


Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
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- Minor Maniac
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Have a look at where the pipe enters the tank and evaluate the condition of the tank itself.
If you are lucky oil leaks from the engine and gearbox may have kept that side of the tank rust free.
Start soaking the connector as soon as possible (I prefer plus gas to WD40).
It won't do any harm and should help matters if you do decide to remove the pipe in the future.
For the time being I'd leave to pipe in place and cobble a pipe connector together.
If you are lucky oil leaks from the engine and gearbox may have kept that side of the tank rust free.
Start soaking the connector as soon as possible (I prefer plus gas to WD40).
It won't do any harm and should help matters if you do decide to remove the pipe in the future.
For the time being I'd leave to pipe in place and cobble a pipe connector together.
WD40 was never intended as a release agent - so always better with proper Plus Gas etc. I wouldn't touch that pipe at the tank unless you are prepared to buy a new tank! Far better to make arrangements at the pump. A 'hose' fitting from an old pump will fit nicely in place of the threaded fitting - otherwise - trot it down to B &Q or similar - and ask if they have a fitting that will screw on and give you a stub for a flexible fuel pipe.


