Undampening front dampers

Post by **morrisman1** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 10:33 am

i read in an old thread here that it is a very good idea to undampen the front dampers when using a telescopic shocky kit which bolts onto the dampers. how do i do this?

cheers,
Cameron

Post by **alex_holden** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 10:46 am

You could remove the spring-loaded valve that is under the nut on the bottom of the damper, then top the damper up with new fluid to keep the bearings lubricated. Keep the valve parts safe in case you change your mind and want to put them back.

Post by **morrisman1** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 10:55 am

so will removing the spring there do the job? have a pile of old shagged dampers here which i could use for parts but i will put the bits in a jar. doesnt mean they wont go missing though

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 10:55 am

I've yet to see any good justification for de-activating the original dampers. Dampers just damp (have no road spring effect etc...) so they can't fight each other, they will just add to the damping.

Post by **morrisman1** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 11:03 am

but whether the additional damping will be sufficient to fatigue the bolts im not sure. i wasnt initially planning to do this but its just something i heard. it wasnt really something that i thought about

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 11:55 am

I would definitely NOT 'undampen' the front dampers - and indeed have not done so on my own car! Drain the old oil - and refill with new 20W50 - and by all means check the holding bolts are nice and tight. I do not recommend the type of additional tele damper mounting that uses these bolts - far far better to arrange a good strong mounting on the inner wing panel - at the crossmember ends.

Post by **morrisman1** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 12:04 pm

its what i have so i have to live with it. i realise that a good welded bracket would be better.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 12:09 pm

Hmm - still don't 'undampen' the front dampers - but do check the bolts. Not too difficult to design/make an inner wing bracket!

Post by **morrisman1** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 12:23 pm

check the bolts? they are good and tight of course. when i put them in i made sure that there was enough thread in the crossmember. from memory there is about 3/8" of thread holding it there. considering the plate in there will be about 5/16" i think its held as strongly as it can be. would loctite on the threads be a good idea?

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 5:02 pm

I do not recommend the type of additional tele damper mounting that uses these bolts -

ah - yes with that type you are adding more stress on the damper bolts - which they werenm't designed for. The one's that mount to the inner wing are usually easy to come by and work better.

Post by **morrisman1** » Wed Oct 01, 2008 1:11 pm

i went to fill them up with sae-30 briggs & stratton motor oil just before. is there a special way to get the fluid to get into the bottom half of the system?

ive filled the top up but nothing is coming through the drain plug at the bottom.

i was thinking that it might require the spring in there to let the fluid come through but im not sure.

thanks

Post by **alex_holden** » Wed Oct 01, 2008 2:32 pm

You have to move the arm to pump it through.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Oct 01, 2008 6:24 pm

You pump out the old smelly oil first - then replace the valve assembly - and bump the car up and down filling as you go. SAE 30 will be fine - slightly heavier than standard - it all helps to get decent damping!