rear brake return springs
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rear brake return springs
Hi Folks
A quick question:
On the rear brake shoes, at the side where the stronger spring goes, (opposite side to cylinder) there is a choice of holes it seems for hooking the return spring on. Which should I go for? The ones closer to the lining material or those nearest the hub? Or does it not matter as long as both near & offsides are the same?
Thanks,
Dom
A quick question:
On the rear brake shoes, at the side where the stronger spring goes, (opposite side to cylinder) there is a choice of holes it seems for hooking the return spring on. Which should I go for? The ones closer to the lining material or those nearest the hub? Or does it not matter as long as both near & offsides are the same?
Thanks,
Dom
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Dom, according to my manual you should have two holes in the shoe one above the other. The picture tells you to put them through the two INNER holes. So chose the two closest together on the vertical plane. The holes closest to the abrasive area of the shoe remain unused. I hope i've explained myself well enough there.
Dean.
Dean.
My Minor:
A Clarendon Grey 1953 4 Door Series II.
MMOC - 66535

A Clarendon Grey 1953 4 Door Series II.
MMOC - 66535
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Thanks Dean,
I tried the innermost holes as yoiu suggested, but there seems to be little in the way of return springing. The outermost holes are impossible to fit, but using the hole nearest hub for upper shoe, and nearest the friction lining in lower seems to be a reasonable compromise. Maybe the springs have stretched a little over the years?
I tried the innermost holes as yoiu suggested, but there seems to be little in the way of return springing. The outermost holes are impossible to fit, but using the hole nearest hub for upper shoe, and nearest the friction lining in lower seems to be a reasonable compromise. Maybe the springs have stretched a little over the years?
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Draft question, you are using the smaller spring in the rear most holes? The bigger spring has a double coil (one either end) which goes by the cylinder, the rear most have just a single coil in the centre.
If you have the right springs in place then yes they may have become streeeeettttccchhhheeeeddd!
If you have the right springs in place then yes they may have become streeeeettttccchhhheeeeddd!

My Minor:
A Clarendon Grey 1953 4 Door Series II.
MMOC - 66535

A Clarendon Grey 1953 4 Door Series II.
MMOC - 66535
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Thinking about it, like you suggested as long as both sides are the same I can't see what difference it would make which holes you use. The spring is only to withdraw the shoes off the drum and to maintain it's location so as long as they pull away and the springs are tight, they should be ok. Unless anyone thinks differently?
My Minor:
A Clarendon Grey 1953 4 Door Series II.
MMOC - 66535

A Clarendon Grey 1953 4 Door Series II.
MMOC - 66535
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Thats great, thanks Wibble & Dean. As I mentioned, when set up as per the photo, the springs have little tension left. Next time I renew the shoes, I'll get new springs too. Nice shiny black ones like yours Wibble!
Fingers crossed - the pedal feels much harder after having replaced a couple of bleed nipples. Some of the spares around nowadays are really pants aren't they! 2nd lot of wheel cylinders in 2 weeks too! I'll have to pray to the God of Hydraulics tonight methinks!
Fingers crossed - the pedal feels much harder after having replaced a couple of bleed nipples. Some of the spares around nowadays are really pants aren't they! 2nd lot of wheel cylinders in 2 weeks too! I'll have to pray to the God of Hydraulics tonight methinks!
Owns: Skoda Citigo
1968 Morris Minor Convertible[sig]3739[/sig]
1968 Morris Minor Convertible[sig]3739[/sig]
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Doubt it - they are as strong as anything - so just use further away holes if they seem a bit slack. Only way they would need replacing is if they have been over-stretched, say when fitting/removing shoes and they have perhaps been stretched out over the hub - taking the springs beyond the elastic limit!


