to waxoly or not
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to waxoly or not
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Gareth
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 1033
- Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: Hallow, Worcestershire
- MMOC Member: Yes
If the car has been waxoyled well, then have a good check over monthly or so to find any areas of damage or corrosion. Any cracks &c, scrape the waxoyl away and providing all is sound, liberally apply more wax - I use a tin of the stuff and an old (and now rigid!) paintbrush.
Happy Minoring!
Phyllis ~ 1962 Morris Minor 4 Door Deluxe
Black coachwork with Red Duo-Tone Upholstery
Phyllis ~ 1962 Morris Minor 4 Door Deluxe
Black coachwork with Red Duo-Tone Upholstery
I dont get the chance to do monthly checks, but tend to go over the whole car once a year, including touching paint up underneath. I tend only to put waxoyl in the box sections. Previous advice on this board on how to apply should cover you off. The key is be thorough, otherwise rust will still get through.
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Willie
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3204
- Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: S E London
- MMOC Member: No
Waxoyl
In my experience it is not necessary to re-apply Waxoyl to
the internal box sections,inside the sills etc once it has been
properly applied. Any areas which are open to water spray
etc should be re coated with a brush once a year. I have
just inspected my internal sills, nearly eleven years after I
Waxoyled them and they were in perfect condition.
the internal box sections,inside the sills etc once it has been
properly applied. Any areas which are open to water spray
etc should be re coated with a brush once a year. I have
just inspected my internal sills, nearly eleven years after I
Waxoyled them and they were in perfect condition.
Willie
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
- MrA.Series
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 267
- Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 12:56 pm
- Location: Cambridge in term, otherwise Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire
- MMOC Member: No
Luckly, the under floor of my Minor is real solid (*touch wood*), and is still the same colour as the bodywork from it's respray many years ago. It's kept on the side of the road, not in a garage and used daily.
Boris: 1968 2-Door Saloon
[img]http://home.ripway.com/2004-2/76758/Morris%20Minor/BorisThumbnail.JPG[/img]
(In background is Pixie: 1968 2-Door Saloon)
[img]http://home.ripway.com/2004-2/76758/Morris%20Minor/BorisThumbnail.JPG[/img]
(In background is Pixie: 1968 2-Door Saloon)
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Willie
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3204
- Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: S E London
- MMOC Member: No
waxoyl
Just remember that it is not a rust killer so you should remove
as much loose and flakey rust as you can before coating with
Waxoyl. It will coat the surfaces and deprive the metal of
contact with air. No air equals no rust. Where applicable you
should use Jenolite to kill rust(the liquid is preferable to the
gel type).
as much loose and flakey rust as you can before coating with
Waxoyl. It will coat the surfaces and deprive the metal of
contact with air. No air equals no rust. Where applicable you
should use Jenolite to kill rust(the liquid is preferable to the
gel type).
Willie
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
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Willie
- Minor Legend
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- Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: S E London
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waxoyl
I must confess that I have done just that in some of those
awkward areas,which is why I prefer the liquid form of Waxoyl,
as it obviously runs like water. Regarding the chassis legs it
was useful to agitate with long handled brushes and then use
a vacuum cleaner to suck as much muck out as possible before
using the magic wax! You need a pretty skinny vacuum tube
though.
awkward areas,which is why I prefer the liquid form of Waxoyl,
as it obviously runs like water. Regarding the chassis legs it
was useful to agitate with long handled brushes and then use
a vacuum cleaner to suck as much muck out as possible before
using the magic wax! You need a pretty skinny vacuum tube
though.
Willie
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
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salty_monk
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 461
- Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 10:57 pm
- Location: Redondo Beach, California
- MMOC Member: No
Yep, work ok; don't use them when it's cold (sets in the pipes in seconds). Use the clear stuff only as the black stuff is awful & make sure you get it really hot before you start using it.
Consider thinning it a bit too with thinners, makes it go on easier If you are using the cavity extension probe you'll need to do it in a heated garage or summer with about 30-40% thinners.
Consider thinning it a bit too with thinners, makes it go on easier If you are using the cavity extension probe you'll need to do it in a heated garage or summer with about 30-40% thinners.
[img]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/salty_monk/Junk/Sig.jpg[/img][img]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/salty_monk/Suzuki/thIMGP0432.jpg[/img]
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salty_monk
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 461
- Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 10:57 pm
- Location: Redondo Beach, California
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You can stand it in very hot water but you'll need to do it for about half hour & keep returning it to it or it thickens up.
If you want to do it asap then you'll definitely need thinners if you are in the UK, even to get ot to spray at all. It's mainly inside the cavities using the extension probe that is really difficut as the mass of goo going down the tube is tiny & it sets very quickly (yes even if you heat the tube first - tried that!!)
You'll also find it difficul getting an even spray out of the regular hose etc for the same reason...
Don't underestimate how horrible this stuff is & how difficult to work with; I can promise it's nowhere near as easy as it sounds on the tin! Cleaning it out is horrible too as it sets in everything in no time once you stop spraying!
Maybe you need to use the liquid form as Willie suggests, I've never used it & wouldn't know where to get it though so over to Willie...
My personal advice; wait till a warm summers day & still use the hot water & thinners!
If you want to do it asap then you'll definitely need thinners if you are in the UK, even to get ot to spray at all. It's mainly inside the cavities using the extension probe that is really difficut as the mass of goo going down the tube is tiny & it sets very quickly (yes even if you heat the tube first - tried that!!)
You'll also find it difficul getting an even spray out of the regular hose etc for the same reason...
Don't underestimate how horrible this stuff is & how difficult to work with; I can promise it's nowhere near as easy as it sounds on the tin! Cleaning it out is horrible too as it sets in everything in no time once you stop spraying!
Maybe you need to use the liquid form as Willie suggests, I've never used it & wouldn't know where to get it though so over to Willie...
My personal advice; wait till a warm summers day & still use the hot water & thinners!
[img]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/salty_monk/Junk/Sig.jpg[/img][img]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/salty_monk/Suzuki/thIMGP0432.jpg[/img]
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Willie
- Minor Legend
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- Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: S E London
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Waxoyl
SALTY...I think you misread me there i was referring to the
liquid form of Jenolite not Waxoyl. You are so right about the
difficulty of spraying Waxoyl but I would suspect that the thinner
should be white spirit not cellulose thinners?( never tried thinning
it). TWINKLE a far better sprayer for the Waxoyl would be such
as a 'Paraffin Gun' which is designed to be attached to a compressor,
the ones sold by Waxoyl are not very good except when the car,
and the tin, have stood in the hot sun for some time.
liquid form of Jenolite not Waxoyl. You are so right about the
difficulty of spraying Waxoyl but I would suspect that the thinner
should be white spirit not cellulose thinners?( never tried thinning
it). TWINKLE a far better sprayer for the Waxoyl would be such
as a 'Paraffin Gun' which is designed to be attached to a compressor,
the ones sold by Waxoyl are not very good except when the car,
and the tin, have stood in the hot sun for some time.
Willie
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
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salty_monk
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 461
- Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 10:57 pm
- Location: Redondo Beach, California
- MMOC Member: No
which is why I prefer the liquid form of Waxoyl
Didn't think I'd seen a liquid form, I was wondering how it stuck to the panels!!
Yes you can use White spirit, I used some from a paint shop though which doesn't smell like white spirit; worked ok though; or at least helped a bit! Just has to be a liquid solvent I guess....
Not tried the Paraffin guns, aerosols are very expensive & I'm sure the hand trigger variety would be agonising after about 5mins...
Take a bit of advice though on this one Iwant1; as Willie says, wait till summer! You'll regret it otherwise.... I did!
looks very much like im going to have to wait then! i really should change my name form iwant1 to igot1. We're welding the car up over this weekend, which is why i wanted to do the waxoyl, i dont really want to thin it, seen as i thought white spirit was corrosive itself i dont want anything to start rusting my car further! unless you only use a tiny bit.
I know this is for another section, but when are the social events happening, and whens the biggy (national)?
I know this is for another section, but when are the social events happening, and whens the biggy (national)?
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Cam
- Moderator

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Have a look at the 'What's On' section on the left of the screen.
Also have a look at: http://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/Events.htm
Also have a look at: http://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/Events.htm
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