Bad running with some throttle - ideas?
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Bad running with some throttle - ideas?
The trav isn't running right: It idles very nicely and drives perfectly well on a light throttle, but as soon as you put your foot down it goes wrong. There is a massive increase in exhaust noise accompanied by some stuttering and very poor/zero acceleration.
When cold, the engine dies completely when you put your foot right down and takes a few seconds to start firing again. The symptoms improve as the engine's heat spreads through the ancillaries, but never quite go away.
The points are new and set to 0.015" gap.
Dizzy cap and rotor are in good condition, no evidence of arcing.
Coil is new-ish.
Plugs have a pale beige/white deposit.
Dashpot has engine oil.
Air filter is clean. Problem is worse with filter off (it was suggested the problem was over-rich mixture on acceleration).
Dizzy vacuum advance works, though not very smoothly.
Spec is a 1275 with HS4 carb on alloy manifold, standard airbox and filter. Standard cast exhaust manifold and stainless steel pea-shooter.
Ideas? Mine so far:
I wondered if the on/off throttle contrast means the dynamic timing adjustment is not working as it should. Any ideas how I can check that the plate moves as it should? I've done the suck-the-vacuum-pipe thing and the diaphragm is intact, though the plate doesn't seem to move terribly smoothly. The exhaust noise reminds me of when the points gap narrowed, which makes me think that the dizzy is affecting the timing somehow.
Anything I could try?
When cold, the engine dies completely when you put your foot right down and takes a few seconds to start firing again. The symptoms improve as the engine's heat spreads through the ancillaries, but never quite go away.
The points are new and set to 0.015" gap.
Dizzy cap and rotor are in good condition, no evidence of arcing.
Coil is new-ish.
Plugs have a pale beige/white deposit.
Dashpot has engine oil.
Air filter is clean. Problem is worse with filter off (it was suggested the problem was over-rich mixture on acceleration).
Dizzy vacuum advance works, though not very smoothly.
Spec is a 1275 with HS4 carb on alloy manifold, standard airbox and filter. Standard cast exhaust manifold and stainless steel pea-shooter.
Ideas? Mine so far:
I wondered if the on/off throttle contrast means the dynamic timing adjustment is not working as it should. Any ideas how I can check that the plate moves as it should? I've done the suck-the-vacuum-pipe thing and the diaphragm is intact, though the plate doesn't seem to move terribly smoothly. The exhaust noise reminds me of when the points gap narrowed, which makes me think that the dizzy is affecting the timing somehow.
Anything I could try?
Jim - New Forest, the Wiltshire bit
Sounds like much too weak mixture - try richening up the idle setting a bit -it's almost impossible to have 'too rich' on acceleration, it just wastes fuel, but runs fine. What needle is in the carb ? Is the carb piston free to lift easily with a finger - and does it fall back with a nice 'clunk' when you let it go (assumes damper removed for this test!). You could also try changing that oil to 3 in 1, I find it works best.
On ignition side - it could be badly retarded I suppose - try advancing it till it pinks - then back it off again very slightly.
Obviously that exhaust is going to be a bit of a restriction - but that should only affect top-end performance and have little effect on acceleration.
On ignition side - it could be badly retarded I suppose - try advancing it till it pinks - then back it off again very slightly.
Obviously that exhaust is going to be a bit of a restriction - but that should only affect top-end performance and have little effect on acceleration.
Last edited by bmcecosse on Wed Sep 10, 2008 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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OK, I'll give that a go.bmcecosse wrote:Sounds like much too weak mixture - try richening up the idle setting a bit -it's almost impossible to have 'too rich' on acceleration, it just wastes fuel, but runs fine.
No idea. It's got filing marks on it though, and when I say that I mean those big coarse grooves made by someone who doesn't know how to use a file...What needle is in the carb ?
Forgot to say that I dismantled and cleaned the carb and float bowl, and the piston moves very smoothly.Is the carb piston free to lift easily with a finger - and does it fall back with a nice 'clunk' when you let it go (assumes damper removed for this test!).
I've had 3-in-1 before, didn't notice any real difference. I think opinion is sufficiently divided that it's hard to say which is best overall. However, I do have some, so...You could also try changing that oil to 3 in 1, I find it works best.
How much adjustment can I make with the vernier? If I can adjust with that the potential for a snafu is less than if I have to unclamp the dizzy.On ignition side - it could be badly retarded I suppose - try advancing it till it pinks - then back it off again very slightly.
That's what I thought.Obviously that exhaust is going to be a bit of a restriction - but that should only affect top-end performance and have little effect on acceleration.
Jim - New Forest, the Wiltshire bit
Yes -well that needle sounds less than ideal. Take it out and let's hear what it is. On the oil , I agree - what works in some carbs is not best in others. Time of year (temperature) matters too. The little hand adjuster will give you a few degrees - depends if it happens to be in the middle of the range or not of course! But easy enough to slacken the clamp on the dizzy and turn it say 1/4" clockwise to advance it - then play about with the hand adjuster. If worried - make a mark on dizzy and bracket before you move anything - then you can easily return to original setting.



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BMC: I'll pull the needle out at the weekend and have a look, but saturday's priority is to reassemble my saloon

That's eactly what I mean. I don't think it's unheard of, just usually done better and with a finer file...kennatt wrote:what do you mean by filing marks,has someone being altering the size of the needle
Jim - New Forest, the Wiltshire bit
Needles can be modified - and if for a single carb - it can just be a 'flat' on the side! But obviously not ideal. One point that came to mind - has this carb been in use before ? And - is there definitely a spring inside the carb - above the piston ? It does sound like it's going very weak on acceleration - missing (or weak) spring may give that effect.



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Yes, and it has previously run perfectly well.bmcecosse wrote:One point that came to mind - has this carb been in use before?
Yes, there is - I definitely remembered to put it back when I dismantled teh carbAnd - is there definitely a spring inside the carb - above the piston ? It does sound like it's going very weak on acceleration - missing (or weak) spring may give that effect.

Can't remember what colour though.
I'm going to have a look at the weekend.
Jim - New Forest, the Wiltshire bit
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