Repairing brake master cylinder

[CliveChafer]

So I decided to replace the leaking seals on my brake master cylinder (it loses fluid and the brake pedal needs pumping even after the system has been bled). As you probably know, that involves taking off the torsion bar that runs along the chassis member where the cylinder is hidden, I mean located. I managed to get all the 50 year old bolts off, but then the manual blithely says "Slide the torsion lever forward on the torsion bar splines..." Hah! After 50 years of corrosion, etc., that lever ain't going nowhere. I've tried using a crowbar against the cross member, and heating the lever round the splines - to no avail. Anyone any bright ideas?

[bigginger]

Bigger hammer. Seriously. You don't have to take the bar off, btw, it's pretty simple to lever it out of the way of the bolts.

[PSL184]

Yes BG is correct. The torsion bar stays ON. Clamp a piece of wood across the chassis rails then use anothe g clamp agist the wood and torsion bar to wind it out the way enought o get the bots out. Takes about 5 mins when you know how

[bigginger]

...or use a stout screwdriver/crowbar to lever it out of the way

[kennatt]

just use a lever and bend it out of the way discussed many times do a search. good luck

[CliveChafer]

Thanks, guys. Sounds like I was being too delicate... Time for a little muscle. I'll let you know how it goes...

[bigginger]

Good luck - hope you don't break anything, they can be a pig to shift

[CliveChafer]

Thanks for your advive regarding getting the torsion bar out of the way. I'm trying to visualize the instructions you gave. Can you draw it for me?! Thanks.

[PSL184]

I can't draw so it wouldn't help you but I will try to describe better. You will need 2 medium sized G Clamps and a length of 2x4 or similar long enough to sit across the 2 chassis legs that run under the car (the ones the torsion bars sit against and run front to back direction). Place the 2x4 across the car (side to side direction) and clamp it with one G Clamp to the gearbox crossmember or some other suitable point to hold it in place. The bottom edge of the 2x4 will now be sitting beneath the chassis rail and torsion bar. Take the second G Clamp and place the top of the clamp on top of the torsion bar and the bottom of the clamp under the 2x4 and wind up the clamp. This will pull the bar down toward the floor enough to remove the bolts. I find this easier than using a crow bar as it gives better control over the movement of the bar and you are less likely to damage the car or yourself. Don't be tempted to put bolts back in the wrong way round when you rebuild because they will foul the torsion bar and wear a groove in it. HTH, Rich

[bmcecosse]

You CAN put the bolts back in 'wrong way round' - just check they are not too close to the torsion bar, and if necessary either ciut a little off the end or put a thick washer under the bolt head. Makes it very much easier next time round. Hopefully you haven't 'heated' the torsion bar too much !

[kennatt]

the clamping method does work well but honestly just use a decent lever crow bar or long stout screw driver. Undo the nuts and then put the lever between the bar and chassis and bend the bar down and pull the bolt out.You will not damage the bar,the only chance of damage is to the chassis rail,put a thin strip of wood or metal between the lever and the chassis to spread the load.If the chassis rail is rusted then you could damage it,would need changing anyway so good test on it. If you are worried about the state of the chassis then use the clamps. It is very simple to do and as bmc says put the bolts in 'the wrong way' but make sure that the ends don't touch the torsion bar which can score the bar which can in some circumstance cause the bar to snap(Rare but can do) good luck with it.

[millerman]

Is this any help?<br><br>

[bmcecosse]

Looks good to me mm!