jacking point

Post by **s.richardson** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 8:38 pm

ello everyone, i bought my moggy in sept03, its my first one, it came jackless, so could somebody tell me wen jack is used do both wheels on one side come off the ground? plus, untill i buy a jack from some kind member ,where is the best place to jack up at the back, i need to take rear wheel off and rest on axle stand, i thought maybe the spring hanger mount, thanks steve

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 8:42 pm

I wouldn't use the jacking point on a cut down traveller!

For the rear axle I tend to put the jack right in the middle of the 4 u-bolt ends. Then axle stand under the axle very near the spring.

Post by **Willie** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 8:45 pm

Yes on the standard Minors both wheels will be off of the ground.
If you wish to jack up the rear the best place is under the diff unit.
This lifts both rear wheels easily,very useful for brake adjustment!
(using a trolley jack that is)

Post by **s.richardson** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 8:48 pm

cheers ray, if u look on my website u can see i have welded 40mm box tube from b-post to rear arch to rear post via bracket, and the whole floor is solid, thanks mate, steve

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 9:08 pm

It's all about leverage..
When applying half a ton of updwawrds load at the crossmember will put the traveller top timbers into tension, which applies the load across the roof and down the front windscreen pillars.
You don't have top timbers, so the waist rail will pull on the back of the doorpost half way up it. This is the opposite way to normal loading so you will get some flexing.
I'm not saying the flexing will cause a problem or not - it depends on the rest of the car, but I wouldn't recommend it.

From memory - the pickup chassis (a lot more substantial than 40mm box, calculated on B x D^3) doesn't have central jacking points.

Maybe I'm paranoid as I've had a lot of 'average' minors, where you wouldn't use the central jacking points anyway.

Post by **Cam** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 10:10 pm

I use the same method as Ray for jacking up the rear, and the same as Willie if I want both rear wheels off the ground (don't forget to chock the front wheels though!).

For the front wheels, put a piece of wood in-between the jack and the chassis leg and then when it's jacked up, place an axle stand under the leg a bit further back.

I don't use the proper jacking points at all. In fact I never have. When I have had to change a flat tyre I have used a bottle jack under the points mentioned above.

Oh and a good bit of advice, if you are using a bottle jack, then take a jack handle with you!! That way you don't have to scrabble about in the dark in a layby finding a branch for a makeshift handle!!

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 1:53 pm

I use a sissor jack if not in the garage. the front at the point where the tie bar connects to the chassis. there is thick metal at that bracket. the rear i use the sissor jack on the spring to front side of axel. the jack will sit nicley with on the spring. only for quick work, no climbing underneath though. trolly jack is best always with wood at the front, so as not to damage the cross member.

Post by **Benjy** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 5:15 pm

Ray, I've used the jacking points on my Trav-Pickup with no problems. Er, well, none that weren't down to utter stupidity, like jacking on a slope without all the wheels chocked... almost lost the jacking point!

Actually, I do remember having trouble getting front wheels off the ground, the reduced weight in the back meant the car tipped forwards more. It's been a while though as I have had a trolley jack for some time and haven't used the screw one since.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 5:27 pm

s.richardson, Benjy,
Was just trying to be helpful, and pointing out the structural changes may (or may not) be an issue.
People tell me I shouldn't drive so fast... I know they have good intentions

Post by **s.richardson** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 6:27 pm

cheers boys, steve

Post by **s.richardson** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 7:30 pm

BENJV, allrite mate, have u got any pics of your travpickup i can see? cheers steve

Post by **alainmoran** » Thu Jan 29, 2004 11:32 am

I don't use the proper jacking points at all. In fact I never have.

Me either ... in fact I've no idea where they are ... I just pick the biggest, most solid looking bit of metal near where i need to get to and jack from that!

I usually use the triangular space between the bolts on the rear suspension, or the chassis legs at the front. I dont use bits of wood to protect the chassis though, cos IMHO if the chassis leg cant take being jacked from, then it needs replacing/welding anyway.

Post by **Cam** » Thu Jan 29, 2004 12:00 pm

IMHO if the chassis leg cant take being jacked from, then it needs replacing/welding anyway.

Yes, agreed, but the main reason I use the wood is that it seems less likely to slip off the jack. Maybe it does or maybe it doesn't, but it feels a bit safter to me.

Post by **Kevin** » Thu Jan 29, 2004 2:02 pm

but it feels a bit safer to me.

I am with you on that point Cam, and also how many chassis legs do you see that have damaged by careless jacking and not because the metal was weak.

Post by **Benjy** » Thu Jan 29, 2004 2:41 pm

have u got any pics of your travpickup

I posted some ages ago to the General Discussion area of this site.

Try http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/index.ph ... pic&t=2084

They're not very good, but you get the idea. The cab back is just a flat sheet, so the seats don't quite go down properly. I have some steel side sections that sit in the back, but they reduce the load space, so they're currently sitting in my parents car-port.

It's off the road at the mo, since failing MOT in Dec. When it's back, it's for sale, cos I need the garage space for my Traveller.

Ben

Post by **57traveller** » Thu Jan 29, 2004 4:28 pm

With reference to jacking under a chassis leg, the diameter of the jack head must surely have to be be considered. If using a smaller diameter jack e.g. a bottle jack then the pressure exerted on the chassis leg at the point of contact must be enormous in comparison to say that of a trolley type jack with a larger diameter head. Even a brand new chassis leg would become bent at the point of contact with a small diameter bottle jack and possibly using a trolley jack. So a suitable piece of wood used to spread the load is essential in all instances. Also to minimise any tendency to slip off the jack (as Cam states).

Post by **les** » Thu Jan 29, 2004 9:19 pm

Call me an old softy if you like Alain, but a peice of timber between jack and car seems less harsh than just straight metal to metal, it also spreads the load, especially if the jack top is small. Protects the paint/underseal as well, to a degree.

Post by **salty_monk** » Thu Jan 29, 2004 11:14 pm

Get a 3 Ton semi pro trolley jack & it comes with a large top cup & soft rubber insert. Coupled with "rocket Lift" it's a really good bit of kit.
Sealey do them £70. Weigh a ton but will fit in the boot of a minor...

Can easily get two wheels in the air from numerous points on the car...