Removing & refitting engine!

Post by **an_avenger** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 11:11 pm

Hello - Since my engine is so nakered I've decided to fit a doner engine in it's place!

Now are there any major points I should watch for....? I have a fair knowledge of the job in hand but I want to know if there are any sneaky twists to the tale of engine removal!

Take care!

Post by **Matt** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 11:12 pm

well i did it......... so it can't be all that hard, how are you gonna get it out of the car? with a specialist engine hoist? I used 3 bits of 2x4 to make a tripod with a big block and tackle.....

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 12:51 pm

The best way if you havent got lifting equipment is to take the front panel radiator off the car. you will be able to see evything clearly. remove starter 9/16 but not power lead. {if you want to do it quick. pull off leads to dynmo coil distributer, small wires. lable them also oil pressure wire.. dont disconect the cables to the carb, just the 2 nuts that hold the carb to the manifold. remember the return spring, disconect with exhaust pipe clamp. place the carb over by the fuel pump. with cables still connected. Remove the battery before you start for safty.
ok things should be ready to undo the bolts that conect the engine to gear box. 1/2 af all the way around, you may like to support the engine with a sissor jack and some wood between. The engine support mounts have a 9/16 and 1/2 af nuts holding the rubber mounts. take them of, if timming cover is in the way just lossern the 1/2 af nuts as much as you can. The if you undo 2 nuts on each side of the engine mounts (the inner ones] this will alow enough clearance to lift the engine out of them.. lifting is made easier with clyinder head off as is the undoing of engine gbox nuts.
Watch out for the clutch return spring, always gets forgottern about

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 12:58 pm

a good spanner to use is a 1/2 9/19 ring rachet spanner, very good tool for this job.
alsowwhen putting new engine back a clutch centering tool is required or the input sharft to the gearbox..
When draining the water out of the engine dont do it where you are going to work. rad +2 rubber pipes that go to the heater. i disconect the bottom hose at the radiator. i think i got most of it.
can be takern out in an hour, if not less. putting back is slower. and so it should be. i think ive not missed any thing, have fun the ring rachet is a jewel. i have a snap on one. for many years now, i would never touch the job without it.

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 1:37 pm

ps you may need to jack the car up to undo the lower nuts bolts. use strong axel stands on the chassis and you could do the whole job with the morris jacked but care should be takern when taking the engine out.
if the rubber pipes are stuck dont pull them, carefully twist them untill they become unstuck. if front panel nuts are difficult to undo, I carefully grind the nuts off and refit new ones, saves a lot of time.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 1:46 pm

Very good advice from Brix - my method is nearly identical including where to put the carb!
As I also don't have an A-frame for lifting, I find the engine a lot easier to get out if the head is off. Mind you I've spent too long in a desk job and taking a minor engine out on my own is getting a bit too hard now! Other people would probably get someone to help them lift it??
Putting it back in requires 2 people or lifting equipment as it needs to be wiggled about a lot.

Post by **57traveller** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 3:12 pm

Something I was wondering with regards to carb and manifold. To save having to remake the manifold/exhaust joint is there enough clearance to remove the engine if the manifold with the carb and exhaust still attached is taken off the head and tied to the inner wing? I use this method when removing the head but that of course is a different kettle of fish to engine removal.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 3:45 pm

is there enough clearance to remove the engine if the manifold with the carb and exhaust still attached

Yes, but chances are the exhaust joint will be disturbed by this anyway. I tend to leave the manifold on the head, then use the thermostat housing and the manifold as 'grab handles' to lift the head off.

Post by **57traveller** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 3:56 pm

Don't know if the wires are crossed here Ray, I mean the clamped joint, manifold to exhaust pipe. Never had any problems with leakage when removing heads and disconnecting complete manifold, leaving the clamp intact. Often found it can be a pain to make this joint gas tight if disturbed.
And as has been mentioned it makes it easier to remove the engine if the head is taken off beforehand, makes the lump less heavy etc. and if removal is for an overhaul then the head has to come off anyway.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 4:16 pm

No, not crossed wires - I was meaning that the exhaust clamp joint can get disturbed when you move it around whilst the manifold/carb is still attached. I've tried this once or twice and still had to re-do the joint anyway.

Post by **Willie** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 7:25 pm

You will find it near impossible to re-seat the front engine rubber
mounts on to the support pillars if you disconnect BOTH of them
so leave one engine mount intact and unbolt it from the engine
bay floor.

Post by **57traveller** » Thu Jan 29, 2004 8:46 am

Either you've been unlucky Ray, or I've been very lucky.

Fortunately never had any problems with clamped joint if it's left intact. Pulling the pipe carefully outwards and tying back will "disturb" the joint far less than the constant flexing etc. under usual driving conditions.

Post by **alainmoran** » Thu Jan 29, 2004 11:19 am

You will find it near impossible to re-seat the front engine rubber
mounts

This is seriously good advice ... about 80% of the time it took me to get my engine back in was taken up with getting those %*&$ing things back in their holes ... Grr.

Also ... leave the manifold on the head, undoing the clamp to the exhaust is ONE bolt ... taking the manifold off is five bolts, half of which have to be taken off one flat at a time.

Use exhaust assembly paste on the joint to re-seal it.

Post by **an_avenger** » Mon Feb 02, 2004 1:09 pm

cheers guys - yup shes out! Apart from being caked in grease and a few vicious words with the car the engine is out! Thanks for the advice! Next re-fitting LOL

Post by **an_avenger** » Mon Feb 02, 2004 1:11 pm

Oh i like the movie pic alainmoran! reminds me of my car!

Post by **Scott** » Wed Feb 04, 2004 2:36 am

Refitting is easy

.
As the books say, it's simply a matter of reversing the above procdeure!!