fitting a reversing light

Post by **ndevans** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:15 am

I have read (possibly on this messageboard) that if you swap the remote control on a 1000 gearbox for one off a Spridget it will have a switch for a reversing light installed, or at least a hole for one.

Where would that be, & would it be possible to drill and tap a hole in a Minor 1000 gearbox in the same place? Or are the innards of the remote control different on a 1000 compared to a Spridget?

cheers,
Neil

Post by **alex_holden** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:43 am

There is a spring-loaded plunger that provides the resistance you feel when you push the stick over into the reverse position. I imagine a switch could easily be linked to that.

Post by **AndrewSkinner** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 2:48 pm

Sorry this doesnt answer your question but another method could be to fit the switch on the outside of the casing? make a small braket that would use the three bolts to hold the top ring on (That holds the stick in) to hold the pressure switch so when it is pulled right over the the side it pushes the switch.

very easy to do but dont forget in that position it will be open to the outdoors and whatever gets flicked up off the road, although not much you probably would want a robust switch.

Post by **ndevans** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 3:37 pm

Andrew,

that's exactly what I'm thinking of, but before I go down that road I just wanted to check whether drilling & tapping a hole in the right place is possible.

cheers,
Neil

Post by **polo2k** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:28 pm

vie got the old Mr grumpy kit and it uses 2 of the 3 bolts, but lifts the swith up and back, so much so that ive had to make a 1.5" plunth for the gator but im not convinced itll work.

Post by **aupickup** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 9:36 pm

it works i had one a few years ago, but it will split the gaiter evenyually

Post by **ndevans** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:46 pm

Mmm....food for thought there. I am thinking of doing something similar myself. Why does it split the gaiter-is the switch too close to it so that it rubs?
Cheers Neil

Post by **polo2k** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 11:12 pm

gutted!

Post by **Packedup** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:07 am

AndrewSkinner wrote:Sorry this doesnt answer your question but another method could be to fit the switch on the outside of the casing? make a small braket that would use the three bolts to hold the top ring on (That holds the stick in) to hold the pressure switch so when it is pulled right over the the side it pushes the switch.

I've been thinking this way too. A simple microswitch or plunger type that gets pressed when the lever is moved over should do the job (would need a relay if a microswitch I imagine). Seems a lot easier than messing with remotes!

Post by **ASL642** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 9:36 am

Have you tried the Maplin catalogue for these switches. We found them v. useful?

Post by **ndevans** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 10:10 am

I have in fact just bought a microswitch from Maplin which will fit under the rubber gaiter nicely, though the gaiter will need raising off the transmission tunnel by about 1/2". I think it will be ok, it's rated at 250V 3A so should be able to switch a 21W lamp easily.

If/when I've fitted it, I will put some drawings & photos up here so that others can do the same if they want.

cheers,
Neil

Post by **alex_holden** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 10:25 am

ndevans wrote:I think it will be ok, it's rated at 250V 3A so should be able to switch a 21W lamp easily.

I reckon that's a bit low actually because incandescent lamps have a high surge current and a fair bit of inductance.

As an alternative to a bigger switch or a relay you could put one of those LED modules in the reversing light.

Post by **ndevans** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 10:50 am

Indeed, good point.

A flywheel diode in parrallel with the lamp will reduce the back emf to 0.7v, and the surge current will only be present for very short time.

cheers,
N