Apologys if this has been covered before!
I've a 1958 saloon that has been fitted with a 1098 engine the clutch slips and the gearbox pops out of 2nd so it was decided it needed sorting out!
I have removed the box and clutch from the car. Am I right in saying this would be the original type for the car?
box
Flywheel
The replacement gearbox I have I belive is the later type?
I also have a clutch kit for a 1098 which is bigger than the one that was in the car. Do I just need a later type flywheel to be able to fit this? Thanks for any help given
the third pic's certainly the later box - ribbed casing. Can't help any more than that, but thanks for the pic of the smooth case one - not seen one before
Ideally you should use the 1098 flywheel which takes the larger clutch. But if no flywheel to hand - then just use a new plate in the original 948 clutch mech. Be sure to use a new carbon thrust - and you 'may' need to use the release fork from the 948 box - compare it with the one from the 1098 box. Of course if using a 1098 flywheel and clutch then the release fork in the ribbed box is correct.
Thanks for you help pinched the flywheel off my travellers engine as its not going anywhere for a while! All went well apart from when I took the gearbox cross member off I only had one bolt on the drivers side. Does the brake master cylinder have to come out to put another in?!
Should have captive nuts inside the crossmember - probably one has broken free. You will need to take the gearbox cover off inside the car - or just leave it with one bolt.
Ive just done that in mine this weekend. The captive nuts on the drivers side are covered by the Master cylinder. You will need to take out the 2 horizontal bolts (yo might need to bend/persuade the tortion bar) its worth remembering that there is a brake pipe in the chassis rail that goes into the back of the master cylinder.
Another thing that`ll help for the future is that the bolts need to go back in from the outside of the crossmember (they can go the other way once the box is out but not once its in)
Once you get to the captive nuts, its cold chissel and lump hammer time followed by play time for the MIG :d
polo2k wrote: (they can go the other way once the box is out but not once its in)
...though you'll need to shorten/pack out with washers the bolts to ensure that they don't touch/wear on the torsion bar. I'd stick with them the same way round, if I were you
just a little tack on either side, you might be able to crimp the plate back over the nut so it doesnt spin (if if your going to have the floor up near the MIG later then get a spanner over the exposed sides of the nut then weld it later.) If you do this then make sure you do weld them because otherwise youll have a whole new world of pain if you have to drop the box lol!
Sounds a whole lot of work for one loose nut - if it was me - I would leave it with one bolt on that side! It's been like that for goodness knows how long anyway.
