Master Cylinder

Post by **polo2k** » Mon May 05, 2008 10:08 pm

Hi there all,

Ive got the master cylinder to rebuild very shortly and its been a while since i last worked on it. Does anyone have an explaoded diagram or series of pictures with all the parts/springs/seals included. Its just one of those things i wanna get right lol!

Post by **alex_holden** » Mon May 05, 2008 10:47 pm

There's a PDF copy of the official BMC workshop manual floating around on the net somewhere...

Post by **polo2k** » Mon May 05, 2008 11:01 pm

alex_holden wrote:There's a PDF copy of the official BMC workshop manual floating around on the net somewhere...

Ive already got the ringbound ones for the saloon and the van. Is that the one you mean?

Just wandered if there was any advice with new parts? or just first hand experiance

Post by **alex_holden** » Mon May 05, 2008 11:04 pm

Yes, I simply followed the manual when I rebuilt mine...

Post by **polo2k** » Mon May 05, 2008 11:12 pm

any tips/tricks from your experiance?
What parts did you replace?

Sorry if these seem like daft questions

Post by **alex_holden** » Tue May 06, 2008 8:07 am

The one I rebuilt was a NOS cylinder that had been sat around for an unknown period of time so I thought it safest to replace the seals even though they weren't worn in case they had started to perish. I also replaced the filler plug gasket, the two copper washers that go either side of the banjo fitting, the push rod (the old one was quite rusty), and the mounting nuts/bolts. If it's an old cylinder then check the bore isn't worn before you try fitting new seals to it. Lubricate the seals with fresh brake fluid when you reassemble it and make sure you get them in the right order.

Post by **kennatt** » Tue May 06, 2008 8:24 am

well hear we go again,its been said many times on the forum,rebuilding master cylinders,is generally a waste of time,its a bit of a pig to get on and off and rebuilt ones usually fails within a few months,they are only rebuildable if the bore is in pristeen condition.If they need reconning then the bore will be worn,they rust at the bottom,and cause a rough spot ,even after cleaning up.This rough spot very quickly damages the rubber and they leak again,then your into the job of getting it off again.I would never recommend rebuilding an old master cylinder,just change it for new they are not that expensive,and having fitted it you know that it will be good for several years.Remember that regardless of the brand new condition of the rest of the system.If the master goes NO BRAKES

what price safety.Just my opinion,but good luck with it

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue May 06, 2008 9:14 am

Yes - old cylinders are generally rusty - it's such a vital item that a new one is probably the safest/longest lasting/easiest way to go. It's such a menace to get that cylinder out/in the car - you only want' to do it once!