Starting engine after 2 years

Post by **stevefinn** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 6:21 pm

For one reason or another my 67, 4 door saloon has be standing, unstarted for almost 2 years. Obviously the battery will need replacing. Is there a check-list of things I should do before I attempt to start it? The engine turns on the handle. Would appreciate any advice. Thanks

Post by **MoggyTech** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 6:31 pm

Engine oil will have absorbed a lot of moisture, so oil and filter change is needed. Also disconnect HT lead and crank until oil warning light goes out to prime the oil pump. Run till warm then check for oil/coolant leaks. Gaskets/hoses can leak after a long lay up.

Drums/discs likely to be rusty, so expect iffy brakes for a few miles. Brake fluid flush would also be a good idea.

Post by **stevefinn** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 7:38 pm

thanks for info' - appreciate it!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 7:49 pm

Take the spark plugs out before cranking it for the oil pressure. And possibly a wee squirt of oil down the bores. Also - you will need new petrol - it's hard to start a car on 2 year old petrol, although once it's going it will burn that petrol ok so don't throw it away! The ignition points may be furred up - likewise the petrol pump points - clean and adjust both before starting. I would change oil and filter only after you have it running - and up to full temperature for 30 minutes or so. You may find the clutch plate is 'stuck' to the flywheel - sometimes comes away with engine heat soak. And rubber items (fan belt/hoses/tyres) will all need careful assessment for fitness.
Good luck!

Post by **stevefinn** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:45 pm

Thanks...will keep you posted!

Post by **MarkyB** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 9:46 am

If the hand brake has been left on be prepared for the shoes to to be stuck to the drums and stop the car moving.
You can try beating on the drums with a rubber mallet to free them off.

Post by **Kevin** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:42 am

Yes give it a go with the new battery first as I have known cars that have stood for 10 years start with a few goes and no adjustments especailly if the car war running OK when last used, then do the checks the others suggest.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 12:14 pm

If you are really really lucky the battery may recover after charging it for a week - I wouldn't bet on it though.

Petrol pump is likely (but not guaranteed) to play up, and it's points may need cleaning.

Clutch may be stuck, but that can often be freed up with some hard use when the engine gets warm.

Post by **youngun** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 7:55 pm

I would make sure that you have good oil pressure by dry cranking, obviously before doing this make sure nothing is stuck/seized or gummed up...especially points, a drop of oil down the bores will make sure you dont have any nastys whilst waiting for oil pressure to build. After 30 mins of running drain all the oil, and change the filter, then run for about another hour or so on new oil, before changing again (this makes sure you have very clean fresh oil everywhere in the engine).
YG

Post by **stevefinn** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:36 pm

Really appreciate all advice - thanks. Watch this space!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 9:11 pm

A bit OTT on the double oil change YG !!

Post by **youngun** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:35 pm

bmcecosse wrote:A bit OTT on the double oil change YG !!

How did i know you would say that BMC?!!!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:20 pm

Because - really - it's not necessary ? Run the engine until the old oil hot - drain it thoroughly (tilt the car so drain hole is lowest point of sump) - fill with new oil + filter! Honestly - that will be fine.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:01 am

A bit OTT on the double oil change YG !!

I'm tending to agree with BMC again (it doesn't happen very often ;-) ) but two oil changes is way beyond what I'd do myself.
The current oil may be past it's best with water (condensation) and other contaminants, so draining it after getting it hot should be fine.

To help get th last remnants of dirty oil out of the sump I add a third of a pint of new oil - this helps to flush out the dregs of the old stuff.

If you have time and inclination, check the brakes (carefully) by making hard stops when driving at moderate speed. If cylinder/s are seized the car can brake unevenly and swerve or even spin so don't do this unless it's safe to do so.
If you have any suspicions about stuck cylinders, then you need the drums off to investigate further (or let the MOT man check them but MOT's are expensive, and free retests are pretty unlikely!)

Post by **youngun** » Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:09 pm

The second oil change is worth it quite often, as its a complete flush. Works well for tractor engines anyway!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Apr 27, 2008 11:13 am

That's a point - has anyone fitted an A series tractor diesel into a Minor - for running on sunflower oil ? We've run out of petrol and diesel up here!

Post by **mrbenn** » Sun Apr 27, 2008 11:55 pm

Just started up a mates project car - 1982 Audi 80. Been sitting for 4 years.

Needed a new battery and some petrol (tank had been drained). Turned over to get the oil circulating then started without issue.

Ran poorly for a short while then, after a couple of stabs of the throttle, settled down to a nice idle. Oil and filter change after 1 hour of running and all was well

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 6:39 am

What - just the one oil change ?? Tccchhh.

Post by **mrbenn** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 11:19 am

I did suggested another after it achieves its MOT and does a couple of hundred miles or so.