Adding a temp gauge to my Morris 1000

Post by **ron77** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 12:24 pm

I really only drive my Morris in summer, and do worry a bit about temperature. How hard is it to add this gauge and suggestions of where to mount it? I have seen a couple of smiths ones on ebay. I can't say I'm the most technical person in town, but if there is a preferred gauge and place to mount it, and where to connect it, I'd welcome those suggestions.

Any real reason to add an oil pressure one, too?

Post by **AndrewSkinner** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 1:17 pm

Hi Ron welcome to the club!

Sorry I cannot help you with the positioning with the tempurature gauge but if your cooling system is in good order then hot weather shouldnt be a problem at all.

The Morris was fitted with a huge radiator that is still considered very efficient. A simple radiator flush should be enough to keep it in tip top condition.

Sorry I cant be of more use

Post by **ron77** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 1:29 pm

Thanks Andrew. This is my second Minor (first "borrowed" from outside my place in London; second one shipped and happy in a garage on a island off Massachusetts). Both products of Charles Ware in Bath. As I only do hot day driving, I had an interest in the temperature. I have fitted a heat shield as well, as I had fuel problems when hot - now cured. hence the interest in knowing the temperature

Post by **Packedup** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:10 pm

Adding a gauge is easy, the hardest part is where/ how to mount it.

You can run an electrical one using a sender in the head. You run a wire from the voltage stabiliser on the back of the speedo to the gauge, then a wire from the gauge to the sender. A lot of people go on about the sender/ gauge being matched, but I've never found any problems using a guage from a Triumph with a sender from a Mini, a sender from a Triumph with the gauge in a Mini/ Metro/ etc.

You could always fit a mechanical type. They're maybe a bit nicer as they work all the time so you can see what's going on with the engine/ ignition off, and there's no wiring to deal with (other than illumination). The downsides are they're not cheap, and the pipework for them is quite fragile and needs to be routed carefully. If you don't mind forking out you could get a dual temp/ oil pressure gauge as fitted to Midgets, as it's one gauge that does the job of two

Post by **Kevin** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 3:06 pm

Hi Ron welcome aboard, if you look under the technical tips section all will be revealed including a diagram.
Thay are often mounted in a guage holder made for the purpose often below the drivers golve box etc it just depends on what position you prefer.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 3:24 pm

Welcome aborad ron - and add your location into your profile - although I gather it's in Mass. Mechanical temperature gauge is far better than an elecric unit - and a mechanical oil pressure gauge is almost essential for keeping an eye on engine health. I suggest you mount them (as I have done) on a little mounting plate just to the right of the steering wheel (or to the left if yours is LHD ?) down below the glovebox opening - but not so low it catches your leg. this keeps the car looking nice and standard - but the gauges are readily seen without too much trouble. Some folks make a plate to fill the glovebox hole - and fill the plate with gauges to represent a 747 - if that floats your boat then go-ahead ! The oil pressure and water temp are worth knowing. Nothing else is necessary.

Post by **MoggyTech** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 4:27 pm

>>Some folks make a plate to fill the glovebox hole - and fill the plate with gauges to represent a 747 <<

Oye, I sound like that remark

You mean like this?

Post by **Kevin** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 4:51 pm

Oye, I sound like that remark

Or resemble even

like lots of others.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 5:00 pm

Welll - if the Cap fits MT! Looks better now it's been painted. Stand by for take-off!

Post by **MoggyTech** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 5:08 pm

bmcecosse wrote:Welll - if the Cap fits MT! Looks better now it's been painted. Stand by for take-off!

Yes Thunderbirds are go

Post by **ron77** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:28 am

Thanks - I am trying to get a combined guage and will mount it under the glove box (where my radio currently sits). I'll check technical for diagram, etc. My car, BTW is a converted Panda, and I sit in London. It sits in Massachusetts. There are about four Morris' on the island in total (Nantucket), at least two are from Charles Ware. The others I don't see that often, and haven't had a chance to ask.

Post by **toomorecol** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 6:42 pm

As for guage combinations I bought a Smiths MGB water temp guage off EBay, sensor is existing on my 1098 engine but do they work, sensor at hot is about 500 ohms but guage reads hot at 50 ohms so I am about to try a Mini sensor. Of course ignorance is bliss, why fit a guage, no worries, the old motor is running until one day oil pressure light comes on and bang, big end goes to its resting place. I bought my moggy 3 months ago, first job a oil pressure guage, but heck 40psi hot so at least I know a rebuild is due. But the engine does run sweet, so I will enjoy the summer before a strip down. Like most I mounted my guages on the drivers glove compartment, on a homemade panel, clock, temp guage, pressure guage and battery indicator.
Have to say to "MoggyTech" lovely car, shows how a 40 year old car can look better than any mass produced computerised built by robots car. Thats what I call a Old boy racer car, in the 60's we all fitted after market goodies, but well then if you could do a ton you was on cloud 9.
Colin

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:55 pm

40 psi HOt is not 'too' bad - should go on for ages if treated carefully. Is that with 20W 50 oil and a new filter installed ?

Post by **Packedup** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:09 pm

The Midget is currently managing 3 - 4psi at tickover when hot, and 20 - 30psi at 2000 rpm upwards.

OK, so a rebuild is long overdue on that, but it gives you some idea that 40psi is really not a lot to worry about!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:21 pm

Yes - well - that really IS too low ! beware rod through side.

Post by **Packedup** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:43 am

That might make a good sign to put on a gate!

Yeah, I'm not exactly thrilled about it - I need to get the Minor sorted so I can drop the Midget sump and check if the crank has been ground before ordering new big ends (which will hopefully keep things going till I can do more long term engine solutions). The block's been skimmed so who knows what has (or hasn't...) been done elsewhere on the lump without actually looking.

I'd be happy enough with 40psi on a hot engine on a hard run at anything much over tickover,and at least 20psi idle on same hot engine. It's not perfect, but it's not wallet emptying time either.

Post by **toomorecol** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:48 pm

40 psi hot, you fellas make me happy, I was thinking a rebuild due, not now, but I have to say I bought her and drove 120 miles home, changed the oil and seriously only a couple of pints came out. How many buyers check the dipstick at buying, I checked for mayonaise on filler cap , oil in water, I missed the basic, how much oil in the engine, but that shows how good the moggy is 120 miles on a few pints of oil. And she does run sweet, starts instantly, and makes me happy, what more could you want !!!and she is female
Colin

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:58 pm

Well - I wouldn't worry about it! When I bought my car I squeezed the price down because the big-ends were rattling. When I went back to collect it - I took oil with me and filled it up - no more rattling. When I stripped it out a little later the shells were worn - but fortunately the crank was perfect - new shells installed and 7 years later the oil pressure is still perfect at 60 psi HOT - and that's HOT after a good thrashing! Normally it's 70 psi - yes, the relief valve has been packed out slightly.
P-up - if your engine has been running with that low pressure for any time - I fear new shells will be a waste of money. Budget for a crank regrind and a new oil pump.