rear brake shoes

Post by **markc** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 3:42 pm

Hi can you give me an idiots guide how to change rear brake shoes? not very confident how to do this and not very mechanically minded !!

Be gentle with me!!!

Post by **Rob_Jennings** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 4:11 pm

find level ground, chock the front wheels (bricks either side of the front tyres will do).

loosen of the rear wheels nuts slightly (just while its on the ground enough so that you can undo them in the air) then release the hand brake.

jack up the rear (under the diff in the centre) and support on axle stands close to the wheel on each side.

remove rear wheels

use flat head screw driver through the adjust hole to slacken off shoes and remove cross head screws holding the drum on. Pull drum off (may need to tap it gently, use rubber hammer, or wood block avoid using metal item as you could damage the drum). clean up inside drum with brake cleaner.

you can see the shoes in position, note the top and bottom shoe, tension springs and adjustment cam:
thicker spring spring at the back, 2 coil spring at the front (both springs face towards the back plate so they are clear of the rotating drum) cam is above the piston, and which shoe goes where (do one side at once so you always have the other for reference if needed)

you should be able to pop out the springs and the shoes will simply come away or gently lever one end first once tension is off springs come away easily.

It is possible to put the springs on the new shoes slip them over the hub and then lever them into place with a screwdriver or something similar. OR put the shoes in place and using something like long nosed pliers attach the springs after (more fiddly I think)

in both cases centre the shoes as best you can they will self centre after a bit of driving.

replace the drum and cross head screws, (if you can, operate the hand brake a couple of times gently to help centre the shoes, make sure you return it to off before adjusting brakes)

adjust the brake through the hole, wind up the cam until the drum does not turn by hand, then back one notch so that it turns freely

replace the wheel, tighten a bit

repeat for both sides (obvious)

jack diff and remove stands, lower to floor, tighten wheel nuts to full

remove front chocks check hand brake operation (try moving off with it on?)

go for short test drive, then readjust brakes to account for any centring of the shoes

sure other will add to this, but think that's the steps required.

Post by **markc** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 6:26 pm

Thanks for your help

Post by **Matt** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 6:41 pm

While you are there is probably worth checking the rear brake cyls are working correctly...

get a glamerous (or other) assistant to press gently on the brake pedal... only 1 drum wants to be off, and if it moves its okay. When you see it moving get the assistant to take any pressure off the brakes! repeat for the other side

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 7:43 pm

Yes indeed - important to see the handbrake mechanism is working AND the hydraulic movement too. If the brakes have been poor/ineffective then the reality is that the cylinders will be stuck and will need renewing. Also any signs of oil (hydraulic or thick axle type) means STOP - don't fit new shoes until the oil leak has been resolved and everything cleaned up. Good idea if you have digi cam to take pics at each stage so you can refer back to them if you get 'lost' somewhere along the way! Final point - the crosshead screws holding the drum on can be really tight. You need a good big crosshead screwdriver - and it may help to give them a wallop with a hammer on the end of the driver to get them going. When replacing - they really don't need to be more than 'nipped up' tight - the wheel holds the drum in place.

Post by **markc** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 5:38 pm

The deed is done!!! took me 1hr on o/s and 15 mins n/s quite tricky i thought! how long do i wait to re adjust and tighten the handbrake? no issues with anything else all looks well,thanks for your help

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:25 pm

Well - you shouldn't really need to adjust the handbrake - only to take up stretch in the cables. But give the car a run - then adjust up the rear brakes with the screwdriver, and then if you feel the handbrake is too long travel - tighten the cables bit by bit until it's as you like it. But do check this hasn't pulled on the rear brakes - jack it up and make sure there is no binding.

Post by **markc** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:10 pm

I will wait until new shoes have bedded in,i might be a bit impatient i'm new to 'old' cars!!!

Thanks for your help,your a good group

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 3:17 pm

It's certainly the best 'Owners Group' Forum I've found.