Rear Spring Removal

Post by **Packedup** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 1:21 pm

I've read lots of posts about grinding the small nuts/ bolts off to do this.

However, my BoL says to "Unscrew the nut and washer from the anchor pin in the front eye of the spring, drive the pin out and remove the spring."

I'm guessing that doesn't happen then?

It's annoying because the car came with new springs and fitting bits so it seems silly not to fit them. But it also looks like a bit of a pain as there's no access to get a socket on the no doubt oddly sized nut on the front mount, and I can think of more fun things than laying under a grubby car trying to dremel the small bolts off

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 4:06 pm

ok the pin if you look at it has 2 small holes , you need a tool simialr to an angle grinder which is used to take off the disc, it is a toll like a spanner but has 2 pins protruding, the same distance as the holes in the spring locating pin

then its easy, do not need to grind the nut off

Post by **Packedup** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:02 pm

aupickup wrote:ok the pin if you look at it has 2 small holes , you need a tool simialr to an angle grinder which is used to take off the disc, it is a toll like a spanner but has 2 pins protruding, the same distance as the holes in the spring locating pin

The new pins have two holes, two holes seems a common feature, but I'm damned if I can see two holes in the old ones! That's not to say they're not there, they might be filled with 40 years of rust (I get the feeling the springs are the original ones looking at the state of them)...

then its easy, do not need to grind the nut off

Thanks, I'll take another look when I'm a little less Minor'd out

I think I should steer clear of springs for a few days, after adjusting the clutch (I like the bite near the bottom of the travel) and forgetting to hook the return spring back on before going for a test drive...

Post by **iddy** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:04 pm

According to my very newly aquired BMC workshop manual

you need tool 18G312 (the other end of the tool can be used on the tie rod for something or other).
It seems a fairly simple bit of kit - a piece of steel with two hardened pins.
Don't know if it's available to buy. Does the club have a facility to loan/hire special tools to members?
If I knew the exact dimensions I might be able to get someone in the Toolroom at work to knock one up. You could borrow it then (and anyone else).
Iddy

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:25 pm

Just grip it with mole grips or similar - chances are the other end will shear off anyway when you try to undo the nut!

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:32 pm

HMM and how do you grip it with mole grips when its flush with the plate ????

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:36 pm

Ahh - sometimes sticking out a bit? Other answer then is to unscrew the plate - but that's another nightmare although again you can hope the little bolts will shear off! It really is an amazing way of securing the spring - and I've never understood why it is done like this - seems like unecessary complication when a simple bolt through would be fine.

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:38 pm

yes fair enough, but the springs get in the way of the nuts on that plate, and the locating pin should be flush with this plate

so the right tool is the answer

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:40 pm

It is indeed - but again - 'once in 15 years' kind of thing!

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:47 pm

yes thats true

Post by **Packedup** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:50 pm

aupickup wrote:yes fair enough, but the springs get in the way of the nuts on that plate, and the locating pin should be flush with this plate

so the right tool is the answer

I did wonder just how in Hades the plate was supposed to come off (having read some posts that suggest that's the way to go)! I can see how the rear bolt might be accessible, but someone has thoughtlessly put a big spring in the way of the front one. Still, it's better than on my Midget, where 4 large nuts/ bolts would drop the whole mount - If someone hadn't welded a floor patch to the left one...

The pin is flush to slightly recessed in the plate on mine, there's now a storm so not only am I Minor'd out I'm also washed out for looking for those holes that might be hidden under rust.

I'm thinking about digging out a load of invoices to take into Halfords next week in the hope of getting a trade card (I've read it's available to anyone who spends far too much money and time on fixing their own cars).. I might ask if they've got an 18G312 while I'm there

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 8:04 pm

Have you tried turning the nut on the other end ? Usually the whole lot is rusted up solid - and the end with holes doesn't want to turn anyway! Where are you with the storm - up here it's been dry/sunny (but cold east wind) for last week or so. Far better than rain!

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 9:31 pm

here is a link to a picture of the tool,

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/18G312.htm

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 9:41 pm

Length of flat bar steel - drill and tap at the correct centres of course - and screw in two small (6mm ?) Allen bolts - then cut the heads off leaving short shank of unthreaded shaft sticking out. Anyone know the centres - or have a new 'bolt' handy to give the size ?

Post by **AndrewSkinner** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 10:45 pm

bmcecosse wrote:Have you tried turning the nut on the other end ? Usually the whole lot is rusted up solid - and the end with holes doesn't want to turn anyway! Where are you with the storm - up here it's been dry/sunny (but cold east wind) for last week or so. Far better than rain!

Thats how mine came out. The pin is usualy pulled in tight and so will not spin. Just try turning the nut, you never know it could save allot of time and money.

Post by **minor_hickup** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 10:48 pm

I'm thinking about digging out a load of invoices to take into Halfords next week in the hope of getting a trade card (I've read it's available to anyone who spends far too much money and time on fixing their own cars).. I might ask if they've got an 18G312 while I'm there

I have one, just tell them you restore cars. that's all I did, its for trade and 'enthusiastic amateurs'!

As for the pin. Whenever I've done it I've just put plus gas on the large flat head, undone the bolt to the end of the threads and beaten it out with a 2lb ball pein hammer. Or am I missing the point?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:18 pm

AS and M-Hick - Exactly - the 'tool' may be handy for holding the new one to stop it turning when fitting it - but i've never had any problems.

Post by **minor_hickup** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:19 am

Ah I see, but the way I did it was to beat it back in!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:21 am

That's the way! Really no need for the tool at all!!

Post by **chickenjohn** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:28 pm

Its an interference fit isn't it? (Or certainly is when rusted). I've removed a few and not has any problems undoing or doing them up again. Its the two little nuts and bolts behind that are the challenge to undo without the grinder (only had to grind one off).