I'm changing the timing chain....is it hard?

[an_avenger]

I've recently I got my fellow college mates to do my tappets and I was advised by the college lecturer to eventually change my timing chain because thats the only thing which makes my engine sound like a tamborine!

Can anyone help me? How big is the job and are there any special tools which I need and when I fit the new chain will I blow up my engine?

I have 11 days before I go to Uni will that be enough time in the crystal dome?

Lee and 'Pidg'

[Cam]

If your timing chain is very rattly, then it maybe the chain tensioner, although chains do stretch a bit.

I personally would not bother unless it is VERY noisy, old and prone to failure but failure of the chain is quite rare.

I don't know if you can get at the chain cover without removing the front radiator panel, I suspect not.

If that is the case then you will have to remove the bumper and radiator (with the front panel), also the fanbelt, front crank pulley and timing chain cover.

You will need a special long socket for the crank pulley bolt (which takes the starting handle).

While you are at it you may as well replace the front crank oil seal, and you will need a new gasket for the timing cover.

The cam and crank gears have marks to line up for when you put the new chain on. As long as these are lined up you should not "blow up your engine".

I would advise not doing this job as it is really not worth the hassle, if the chain is worn and old, then the chances are that the engine is also and so may need a 'freshen up'. Replacing the chain is usually a job that is done when an engine is re-conditioned, although if you are hell-bent on changing it then of course it can be done, although it is a lot of hassle.

If you have a Haynes manual then look it up in there to give you an idea, if you have not got one, then get one! It is a good investment - Try eBay I got mine for a coulple of quid.

Good luck!

Cam.

[olonas]

When renewing the timing chain I have always found it easier to remove the bumper, radiator and grille panel for access. Raising the front of the car and supporting on stands under the chassis rails makes access easier also. (in my experience) The crankshaft pulley nut is 3/4" Whitworth and a ring spanner can be used, it may be very tight. If so the engine has to be in gear, handbrake on and possible chocks in front of rear wheels, to deter engine from turning when trying to release. The chain is tensioned (1098cc) with two rubber "bands" on the camshaft pulley. I have found the camshaft gear a pig to remove. Before removing the chain & gears, together, turn the engine until both marks on the gears are in line at their nearest point. After removal DO NOT turn the engine or camshaft. Don't lose the two Woodruff keys. The new chain already fitted to the gears can then be fitted as a unit. There is an oil thrower on the crankshaft. Make a note of which way round it is fitted before removal. There may also be packing shims behind the crankshaft gear to align the two gears. It differs on later engines. Don't tighten the timing cover bolts until the crankshaft pulley has been refitted, this ensures the seal is correctly aligned.
As Cam hints, don't attempt the job unless you are totally sure and confident. Worn timing chains can rattle around for ages without problems.

[olonas]

There's one(or more) Haynes Minor 1000 workshop manual on ebay at the moment, £2.99 + p&p

[an_avenger]

OK...I will probably leave it for a while but thanks for the advice! I will look on eBay for that Haynes manual. Cheers

[Willie]

If you Do have to do this job I would strongly recommend that
you purchase the DUPLEX(double) timing chain kit which is
freely available from the Minor specialists. It is not too expensive
and is much better than the original arrangement. The other
alternative is to fit the system as used on the Metro(it has a chain
tensioner), but involves more work than the Duplex kit.
Willie

[olonas]

I have a spare Haynes Minor 1000 (1956 - 71) you can have, it is a bit "experienced" (some loose pages etc) but useable, all I ask is that you pay postage at cost. Please e-mail to arrange delivery, your address etc.
pjon@onetel.net.uk

[olonas]

As Willie says both are good upgrades. Drilling of the engine front plate is not for the faint hearted though.
I purchased a duplex kit for my saloon but "bottled out" when it came to countersinking the front plate for the new screws supplied with the kit to clear the existing two hex head bolts.

[Willie]

ref the poll regarding original gear knobs at the start of "I am
changing the timing chain". This is rather interesting since my
1957 Minor has a ROUND gear knob and I can find several
pics in various books which show a round knob on cars from
1956 to roughly 1958. does any one know if a ROUND knob
was standard for a short time???????????
Willie

[newagetraveller]

I may be completely wrong but I thought that the cars with a 948cc engine had a round gear handle and the longer handle came in with the 1098cc engine.

[Gareth]

Hello there!

Just a thought. At around 1956 - 1958 the Minor's gear lever was shortened. I have no idea why, but it might have been thought prudent to use a different knob. I think that feedback proved the lever to be too short, and so it was reset and lengthened.

Phyllis is a '62 cross-over Mog, and she's got the "tear drop" knob. I've not seen round one's on the Morris, although I think that the Austin 1100 and 1300 variants (MGs, VDPs, &c) had what was akin to a "golfball on a wand".

Obviously there is some blurring of the chronology here, but it's one explanation.