is there a differnce? 1098cc brakes

Post by **rayofleamington** » Sun Jan 11, 2004 11:36 pm

yes they are 8" drums (at the front)- the 948 had 7"
the bits can be transferred.
Can't tell from your post, but if you have added the 1098 engine to your 61 then you really need the better brakes.

Post by **Peetee** » Mon Jan 12, 2004 8:56 am

It is the front brakes that are bigger, not the rears.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Mon Jan 12, 2004 2:58 pm

Thanks Peetee - I had misread the original post!

The rear drums are the same on both cars! I'd assumed you meant the fronts as you'd mentioned that they looked bigger.

Post by **Peetee** » Mon Jan 12, 2004 7:24 pm

The back axles are the same on the 948 and 1098 cars with the exception of the differential which has a different ratio. They are interchangeable however.

Post by **Willie** » Mon Jan 12, 2004 8:47 pm

When you fit the 8 inch front brakes be aware that the back
plates are HANDED so fit to the correct sides (they are stamped
L and R). The rear interchangeable diff ratios are: 948cc=
4.55-1.....1098cc= 4.22-1. If you change to the 4.22-1 then you
will need to fit the later speedometer....if you do that then you
MUST fit the later fuel gauge sender unit(in the tank) in order
to get the fuel gauge to read correctly.

Post by **Cam** » Tue Jan 13, 2004 11:18 am

Also watch the oil filler plugs on the axles. The 1098 one is on the rear of the housing whereas the 948 one is on the diff unit, so if you put a 1098 diff in a 948 casing you can't put any oil in!!!

On the other hand putting a 948 diff in a 1098 casing you have two to choose from!

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Jan 13, 2004 11:23 am

I would estimate that it is quicker to change the complete axle than the Diff.
This depends on how much hassle you have with the u-bolts but the other bits (rear shackles and the brake pipe) don't normally cause much trouble.

Post by **Cam** » Tue Jan 13, 2004 11:29 am

Maybe, but I think the axle is more hassle. I think I took about an hour or so to change a diff, but the axle took longer as you have to bleed the brakes and undo the leaf spring shackles to drop the axle. It's worth changing the axle anyway as the oil fillers are corrrect then.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Jan 13, 2004 11:37 am

I was guessing about 2 hours to do the axle. (and another hour to get it off the other car).

Does doing the diff also entail having the half shafts out (brakes off at each side) and prop shaft out of the way (emptying the gearbox oil) then refilling?

Post by **Cam** » Tue Jan 13, 2004 3:03 pm

Does doing the diff also entail having the half shafts out (brakes off at each side) and prop shaft out of the way (emptying the gearbox oil) then refilling?

Yes, but I have not taken the half shafts out of a Minor axle. I did my Ford one (a couple of times) without removing the brake backplates so it was easier. I don't know if this is possible with the Minor exle, but if not then you might be able to move them without disconnecting the pipes so you would not need to bleed the brakes again after.

You don't need to take the prop off completely just undo it and push it out of the way leaving it connected at the gearbox end.

Post by **57traveller** » Tue Jan 13, 2004 3:39 pm

The Minor halfshafts must be similar Cam, it's only necessary to remove the brake drum and one securing countersunk screw. The remainder of the brakes remain insitu. They then just pull out.
In theory it would only need them extracting a small amount to allow diff. removal but it's always best to renew the paper joint between the halfshaft flange and hub flange, for which they have to come out completely.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 9:55 am

i've just done the front brake piston's

as far as I know - the front brake cylinders can be changed over onto the later backplates, so you can keep your cyckiders. You will have to remake the short pipe inbetween though.

Post by **MrA.Series** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 4:06 pm

Surely it's always best and safest to just replace the cylinders anyway.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Jan 14, 2004 4:45 pm

Surely it's always best and safest to just replace the cylinders anyway.

I agree. However if someone is on a budget, and the £50 spent replacing 4 good cylinders is then not spent on something equally important, it doesn't necessarily add safety.
I was just trying to point out the options ;-)

One thing I wouldn't recommend a seal kit to cure a leaky wheel cylinder - that's not only a false economy, it's asking for trouble (as I learnt when I used to run a Minor on a shoe-string at 18 years old).