my moggy needs painting.

Post by **alex_holden** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 8:22 am

Garym wrote:Would I need to undercoat before applying coach enamel,or do you just rub down and paint straight on ?

You will definitely need primer if you're painting bare metal. I'm not sure if you'd need it when painting over the original topcoat (I'd guess not).

Post by **ASL642** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:50 am

I have just contacted my paint supplier in Birmingham and he has no problem supplying celulose paint - the primer is out, but he has all the bases and can mix any moggie colour. You'd can 'touch up' and not see where you've been - very good matches! PM me if you need name and number.

Post by **Garym** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:34 pm

alex_holden wrote:
Garym wrote:Would I need to undercoat before applying coach enamel,or do you just rub down and paint straight on ?
You will definitely need primer if you're painting bare metal. I'm not sure if you'd need it when painting over the original topcoat (I'd guess not).

It would be painted over the original top coat,not bare metal.
I fancy given it a try !

Post by **MoggyTech** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 1:16 pm

It would be painted over the original top coat,not bare metal.
I fancy given it a try !

You can spray enamel over Celly, but not the other way round. Sometimes you can get away with simply keying the celly finish with 400 grit wet and dry and spraying the enamel direct to the old celly. However, it's safer to use a barrier coat to 'lock' the old paint and prevent micro blisters, fish eyes. Using an HVLP spraygun and coach enamel can give a great finish out of the gun, without the need for colour sanding. The downside of enamel, is it takes ages to dry, and dust marks are harder to get out, as it's tougher than celly paint.

Post by **Garym** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:25 pm

MoggyTech wrote:
It would be painted over the original top coat,not bare metal.
I fancy given it a try !
You can spray enamel over Celly, but not the other way round. Sometimes you can get away with simply keying the celly finish with 400 grit wet and dry and spraying the enamel direct to the old celly. However, it's safer to use a barrier coat to 'lock' the old paint and prevent micro blisters, fish eyes. Using an HVLP spraygun and coach enamel can give a great finish out of the gun, without the need for colour sanding. The downside of enamel, is it takes ages to dry, and dust marks are harder to get out, as it's tougher than celly paint.

Is it ok to thin enamel,and,if so,what % to paint ratio

Post by **MoggyTech** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:34 pm

Is it ok to thin enamel,and,if so,what % to paint ratio

You need to follow the product data sheets to ensure the correct thinning agent is used. Most enamels are thinned with white spirit. Most HVLP spray guns come with a viscosity cup, and you use that to get the right mix.