Is this an SU HIF 44?
Is there a good manual/book recommended that covers SU's?
My engine, 1275 Marina, will only idle at full choke.
Can't be good. Replaced my plugs, just because they looked old, and they had black carbon all over. This indicates a rich fuel condition, correct?
Can someone give me basic adjustment for this carb.
I'm at 7,000 feet above sea level. Could this be part of my problem?
Thanks as always
-Dave
[img][img]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc27 ... 1-Carb.jpg[/img][/img]
What Carb Do I Have & Idle Adjustment Help...
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- Minor Fan
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What Carb Do I Have & Idle Adjustment Help...
http://www.davidwinterswoodworker.com/
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- Minor Legend
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It does look like a HIF. You can find out which one by taking the inlet elbow off and measure the throat diameter. It will be 44mm if it's a HIF44.


Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
Whip that front elbow off that the filter sits on - make sure the cylinder is going right down (i had this problem - bodged it by stretching the damper spring - a big no no but it was a temp fix)
Stupidly obvious is the dashpot full of oil?
fuel pump filter clean?
theres i think a little gauze filter at the bottom of the carb is that clean?
Stupidly obvious is the dashpot full of oil?
fuel pump filter clean?
theres i think a little gauze filter at the bottom of the carb is that clean?
http://mog.myfreeforum.org
If you face the carb full on from the side of the car you'll see a recessed cross head screw down and to the right of the elbow. That's the mixture adjustment, you turn clockwise for richer, anticlockwise for leaner.
The tickover screw is quite easy to spot, it's the one almost directly below the upper left carb/ manifold stud/ nut.
I think you might have a 1.5"/ 38mm inlet manifold looking at the picture (I spotted one that looks very similar on Feebay last night), so if you have got a HIF44 it's going to be flowing quite badly! Worth checking, easy enough to see if there's a step once you've got the elbow off - Just hold the throttle wide open and peer in the hole
The tickover screw is quite easy to spot, it's the one almost directly below the upper left carb/ manifold stud/ nut.
I think you might have a 1.5"/ 38mm inlet manifold looking at the picture (I spotted one that looks very similar on Feebay last night), so if you have got a HIF44 it's going to be flowing quite badly! Worth checking, easy enough to see if there's a step once you've got the elbow off - Just hold the throttle wide open and peer in the hole

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- Minor Addict
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Burlen fuel systems do a good manual covering all types of su has a good discription of operation , tests, overhaul, exploded diagrams etc. mines been very useful
www.burlen.co.uk
www.burlen.co.uk
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- Minor Fan
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Thanks, all. You'll have to forgive me, I have no experience with the SU's at all.
How is the dashpot oil checked?
How do you fill it?
What viscosity oil is best for colder climes?
I'd like to run a K&N filter- does anyone know what model/part # is good for this carb?
Thanks again-
Dave
How is the dashpot oil checked?
How do you fill it?
What viscosity oil is best for colder climes?
I'd like to run a K&N filter- does anyone know what model/part # is good for this carb?
Thanks again-
Dave
http://www.davidwinterswoodworker.com/
The black plastic knob on top of the carb unscrews, and has the damper rod attached. You take it out and put oil in the hole, you're supposed to fill to just below the top of the inner cylinder in there, but I tend not to worry about putting too much in as the excess will "vanish" anyway. When you take the rod out the piston will tend to lift if there's oil in there, but it doesn't hurt to top it up anyway.
I've never had a problem running 20/50 in the carb, but I've also used 10/40 (in the Metro) as that's what that particular engine runs on. People recommend all sorts of oils, from 3 in 1 household to ATF, but I find engine oil works just fine. I've tried thinner/ lighter oils and had problems with leaning out on acceleration. The carb needs the right needle and the right spring, and I imagine different oils are suited to the other two variables - For a fairly standard road engine fairly standard road oils work for me!
I've never had a problem running 20/50 in the carb, but I've also used 10/40 (in the Metro) as that's what that particular engine runs on. People recommend all sorts of oils, from 3 in 1 household to ATF, but I find engine oil works just fine. I've tried thinner/ lighter oils and had problems with leaning out on acceleration. The carb needs the right needle and the right spring, and I imagine different oils are suited to the other two variables - For a fairly standard road engine fairly standard road oils work for me!