Advice on buying first Morris!
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- Newbie
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Advice on buying first Morris!
Hi everyone,
I'm test driving a 1967 Morris Minor on Sunday, but I've never driven, my partner's only driven sporadically, and basically we're totally clueless! I found another site that gave a huge list of things to look out for, but with little technical knowledge I couldn't understand it all.
I know rust, 'mayonnaise' and flipping into neutral can be problems, but in layman's terms, what are the big things we need to look out for? We'd love this car, but would be spending all our money on buying it, so can't afford to spend lots on repairs we should have spotted beforehand.
Also, can anyone tell me approximately how much insurance will be? We got a quote for £500, but know it could be cheaper if we join MMOC, for example! My partner is 26, passed his test 9 years ago and has no points on his licence or previous claims.
Any help very gratefully received!
Rosie.
I'm test driving a 1967 Morris Minor on Sunday, but I've never driven, my partner's only driven sporadically, and basically we're totally clueless! I found another site that gave a huge list of things to look out for, but with little technical knowledge I couldn't understand it all.
I know rust, 'mayonnaise' and flipping into neutral can be problems, but in layman's terms, what are the big things we need to look out for? We'd love this car, but would be spending all our money on buying it, so can't afford to spend lots on repairs we should have spotted beforehand.
Also, can anyone tell me approximately how much insurance will be? We got a quote for £500, but know it could be cheaper if we join MMOC, for example! My partner is 26, passed his test 9 years ago and has no points on his licence or previous claims.
Any help very gratefully received!
Rosie.
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- Minor Fan
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insurance should be under 250 a year really.
and as for advice on buying your first minor I would say don't, its a sliperry slope into becoming permanently hooked. But then thats no bad thing.
Recent paintwork hiding bodges always to be looked for. Structure and body more important than mechanics as they cost more to fix. Look for recent overspray and then look why its there. All minors have had loads of panels and paint.
I find looking in the boot at where the wings bolt on is a good indicator to a minors condition. If its good there the car is usually not too bad, but if it looks horrible there and the outside looks good it could be hiding rot.
You could always take someone with you who understands moggies, try asking on here. You would have to say where abouts you are though.
Good luck
and as for advice on buying your first minor I would say don't, its a sliperry slope into becoming permanently hooked. But then thats no bad thing.
Recent paintwork hiding bodges always to be looked for. Structure and body more important than mechanics as they cost more to fix. Look for recent overspray and then look why its there. All minors have had loads of panels and paint.
I find looking in the boot at where the wings bolt on is a good indicator to a minors condition. If its good there the car is usually not too bad, but if it looks horrible there and the outside looks good it could be hiding rot.
You could always take someone with you who understands moggies, try asking on here. You would have to say where abouts you are though.
Good luck
[img]http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x17/superchargedfool/DSCF0024-1.jpg[/img]
cool cars don't die they just get cooler as they get older!
cool cars don't die they just get cooler as they get older!
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- Minor Legend
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The most important thing to check for is that the car is structurally sound. Mechanical faults are relatively cheap and easy to fix compared to rotten bodywork. It might be a good idea to try to find somebody from your local branch of the MMOC to go and look at it with you. There are particular places underneath that are prone to rust that somebody who has restored a car or two will know to look for.
Although I don't want to put you off, one thing to bear in mind is that a Minor will require more maintenance than a modern car, especially if it isn't in top condition to start with. This can either be cheap if you do the work yourself, or very expensive if you take it to a specialist garage.
For insurance, make sure you go to a classic car specialist (I'm with Footman James at the moment). You should get a discount for being a member of the club. £500 sounds very high unless you're under 21.
Although I don't want to put you off, one thing to bear in mind is that a Minor will require more maintenance than a modern car, especially if it isn't in top condition to start with. This can either be cheap if you do the work yourself, or very expensive if you take it to a specialist garage.
For insurance, make sure you go to a classic car specialist (I'm with Footman James at the moment). You should get a discount for being a member of the club. £500 sounds very high unless you're under 21.


Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
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- Minor Legend
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In my own limited experience I'd suggest you check the underside thoroughly and ask the owner if you can look inside the sills.
The sills and the bottom of the door post and hinge posts (A&B posts) rot like crazy. (C post too if its a 4 door)
Poke the sills with a screwdriver from underneath if you can't get the covers off them.
Also poke around the areas where the rear suspension springs attach. The box section either side of the fuel tank rots inside-out and the front hangers do the same.
Mechanically - well personally I wouldnt bother checking much. Mechanical parts are so cheap and easy to replace theres no issue. Its bodywork thats the stinger.
Jack the front wheels up and grab them top and bottom and try and wobble them- if theres any movement here then your trunnions are probably knackered. Simple job to replace but unsafe to drive until you do so.
Insurance?
I pay £130 a year, I'm 28 yrs old and have been driving since I was 17 with no claims.
Try HIC on: 08451 290290
The sills and the bottom of the door post and hinge posts (A&B posts) rot like crazy. (C post too if its a 4 door)
Poke the sills with a screwdriver from underneath if you can't get the covers off them.
Also poke around the areas where the rear suspension springs attach. The box section either side of the fuel tank rots inside-out and the front hangers do the same.
Mechanically - well personally I wouldnt bother checking much. Mechanical parts are so cheap and easy to replace theres no issue. Its bodywork thats the stinger.
Jack the front wheels up and grab them top and bottom and try and wobble them- if theres any movement here then your trunnions are probably knackered. Simple job to replace but unsafe to drive until you do so.
Insurance?
I pay £130 a year, I'm 28 yrs old and have been driving since I was 17 with no claims.
Try HIC on: 08451 290290

Last edited by dunketh on Thu Feb 28, 2008 3:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
What would Macgyver do..?


HI Rosie, I suggest you join the club also fill out your location in your profile I'mm sure someone near you will come and give you hand, as far as parts go they're still quite plentiful better than modern cars and there are a lot of uprades which you might like if you want to improve a thing or two in it! Good Luck!
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- Minor Maniac
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and yes be very careful where you buy from, remember these cars are over 40 years old, and 40 years of bodging.
also remeber just because a car is shiny, it may a total rust bucket under the paint.
i would suggest an AA check on any car you buy, and do not just take a members word that the car is solid
good luck
also remeber just because a car is shiny, it may a total rust bucket under the paint.
i would suggest an AA check on any car you buy, and do not just take a members word that the car is solid
good luck
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- Minor Fan
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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 349
- Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2006 4:47 pm
- Location: Ross On Wye
- MMOC Member: No
It all depends how much you are being asked to pay - as to what you should expect! If it's a £500 car - then expect the worst. If it £5000 then it had better be pretty much immaculate - with a full year's no-quibble guarantee on everything. Whatever you buy - it MUST have a brand spanking new MOT. Don't touch anything with less than say 9 months ticket - if it has less - ask them to put it through a new MOT - and if possible go along to watch the MOT in progress. If your Dad has a Minor - you really should get him to vet the car before you buy.



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- Minor Maniac
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9 months mot left i would say is pretty good
if i was selling a car or van with that amount of mot left and the buyer asked me to put a new one on i would be very annoyed indeed
the price does does not really reflect condition
as example i know of a few nice and shiny ones that are patched to the hilt
i paid £500.00 for my car and is solid as a rock, ok wings needs replacing but all floors etc are original and not been welded and does not need any structural work at all

if i was selling a car or van with that amount of mot left and the buyer asked me to put a new one on i would be very annoyed indeed
the price does does not really reflect condition
as example i know of a few nice and shiny ones that are patched to the hilt
i paid £500.00 for my car and is solid as a rock, ok wings needs replacing but all floors etc are original and not been welded and does not need any structural work at all



The price is a guide to what you should EXPECT! But as always - buyer beware. If they are wanting to sell the car - they won't baulk at £35 for a new MOT - the buyer could even offer to PAY for the MOT - and to buy the car at an agreed price - but only IF it passes! No pass - then no sale and NO paying for the failed MOT either! In other words - the seller has to be reasoanbly certain the car will pass!
My additional advice would be - don't just look at one car - look at several - and only then decide which one to buy.
My additional advice would be - don't just look at one car - look at several - and only then decide which one to buy.


