choke cable

Post by **FrankM83** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 4:07 pm

Hi all, has anyone bought one of the high quality choke cables from ESM and found it too long?? If yes how did you remedy this? Thanks

Post by **Orkney** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 4:09 pm

Too long how? the outer casing ?

Post by **FrankM83** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 4:11 pm

all of it I think without taking an accurate size, off hand I think its about 2 metres long! in place it goes straight to the front panel and beyond

Post by **Orkney** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 4:38 pm

well beasts of things to cut correctly, you need to work out and get the outer length correct, remove it then cut it with a 4" grinder using a cut of (very thin) disc.
Hacksaw will foul the spiral coil under the pastic that the cable slides through.
Ordinary grinder disc may melt the plastic surround.

Depends on teh inner cable unless you have a special set of cutters they can be terrible too. Good way is sandwich tight between 2 scraps of wood in a good strong vice (so the wood grips & is destorted by the cable) hold it slightly above or to one side of the vice jaws and go through where you want it cutting wood and all.
Keeps it really clean. Then a touch of solder on the end 1/4" will prevent it fraying.

Maybe its 'high quality because its longer ?

Post by **bigginger** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 4:41 pm

So cut it

Really, it needs a small bolt cropper kind of plier. Remove the inner from the sheath and cut the sheath to length, then solder the inner where you want to cut (keeps the wires together) and cut through the solder. Job done.
a

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 7:12 pm

I would take note of Orkney's advice - if the outer cable gets 'crimped' in any way then it will be useless - and you MUST solder the inner cable before cutting or it will fray like mad and also be useless. Seems there are complaints about quite a few items from the Co you mention these days.

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 7:16 pm

and dont buy the metal vacuum advance unit , its from an mgb and all the wrong lengths

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 7:20 pm

Strange - because MGB uses same dizzy as Minor (948 and 1098 engines - 1275 may have later different model dizzy depending on source). I put my spare in mates MGB to see if that would solve his problems (replacing his lectronic one) - but it made no odds. The new plugs cured it!

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 7:35 pm

yes we know its the same dizzy, if you read my post correctly i said it is the wrong lengths, ie if mounted on top of the thermostat housing like it should, then its to short to go to the carb

Post by **zippy500** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 8:06 pm

Is the choke cable similar to bicycle brake cable.

I used to use good quality side cutters never had any probs, and you can re twist the inacable with pliers.

Post by **paulk** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 8:21 pm

Alternativly mount choke control in rear of car and ask rear seat passengers to operate it

Seriously Really sharp side cutters can successfully cut the outer and then clean up with a file but as above always solder the inner or your in a world of nuisance

Post by **bigginger** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 8:28 pm

While we're on that subject, a little gas powered soldering iron makes a better job of the soldering than an electrical one, though that gets there in the end
a

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 11:01 pm

aupickup - you say 'metal vacuum advance unit' - I think i'm reading that correctly - which is the part that fit's into the dizzy and certainly doesn't fit on top of the thermostat housing. Possibly you meant the metal tube that connects the vacuum advance (on the dizzy) to the inlet manifold - but that's not what you have written. Sorry - but i'm not a mind reader - I can only comment on what is written! And a vacuum advance unit for an MGB WILL fit a Minor (948/1098) dizzy.

Post by **aupickup** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 6:16 pm

yes bm you are correct i did mean the metal pipe sorry