Heater problems.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 7:10 pm

Outside temp was 60F !!!!!! In the UK ?? Although it wasn't 'miserable' up here today - it was no-where near 60F !

Post by **Orkney** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 7:18 pm

Yeah saw 15c forecast south next few days - all that sleet today and -windchill made me determined to have a go at ths mod.
My testing wont be so scientific - will just go on layers of longjohns on the daily post office run ;-)

Post by **wanderinstar** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 10:52 pm

I have a Mini heater fitted to my car. One of troubles is if I put fan on it starts to blow cooler after a few minutes. I believe the Mini fan runs faster than Minor one though.

Post by **dunketh** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 9:51 am

Result!
So fixing the trunk to the rad does help.

My heater used to get cooled down by the fan, since cleaning it out I've not had this problem though it does heat up a lot faster with the fan off.

Post by **Orkney** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 1:37 pm

Tried the heath robinson approach this morning

been frozen all day here so a good test on the daily 3 mile each way trip.

IT REALLY WORKS !!!!
will do a fancy version next

PS if you clock this pic Ray no i havnt fitted the hose etc you so kindly donated but will very soon

Post by **Stig** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 2:55 pm

Anybody able to compare this mod with the recirculating one? I find the windows steam up more since I've changed it to recirculate so anything that'll dry out damp carpet the quickest would be good!

Post by **Peetee** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 3:27 pm

so anything that'll dry out damp carpet the quickest would be good!

Kitty litter?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 4:31 pm

Orkney - my set up is similar (but slightly neater!) and I can swing the trunk from behind rad to fresh air intake in seconds. The rad position does help in v cold conditions - but some risk of engine fumes.
Stig - yes for non-steamy windows you do really need the fresh air blowing through the car. Damp carpets are best removed for drying elsewhere - and just run with rubber mats during wet weather. Otherwise they are only going to smell horrible - and encourage floor rot!

Post by **DaveC** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 6:16 pm

will do a fancy version next

Glad it worked for you! The more rad area you can get the better. The collector method has about 25 square inches. The trick is in bending the tab at the back, to get the thing to stay against the rad matrix (and to stop it straying too close to the fan). I snotched the edge over the top flange of the rad to stop it slipping down and tightened the bolt up to clamp it in place. You could also drill a couple of holes and wire tie it to the top pipe.
I had to turn the heater down today because it was too hot in the car. Don't think I have ever done that before

Post by **wanderinstar** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:48 pm

My heater pipe off the back of the head is only very warm, not hot. Whereas the top rad hose is extremely hot. The heater valve was replaced about 18 months ago. I have been wondering about doing away with valve altogether and making up a plate to bolt onto head with a piece of bent tube welded onto this plate. Possibly along with opening up the hole in head slightly. I would then fit a simple on/off valve into hose in car. All this to get more HOT water flowing through heater. This pipe could also be designed for east fitting of 940 head. (next mod, once heater sorted out)
Any thoughts??

Post by **bigginger** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:01 pm

You have too much time on your hands?

There already is a simple on/off gate valve available which would seem to do just what you're thinking
a

Post by **wanderinstar** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:40 pm

Do you mean off the earlier cars? I am trying to get as free flow as possible to increase efficiency of heater. Have tried upping stat temp but that kept blowing head gasket.

Post by **bigginger** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:51 pm

Couldn't say. the 'brass' thumb wheel screw in/out affair though, which AFAIK gives as much flow as you're going to get, and is more reliable than the cable operated last for 2 weeks thing
a

Post by **minor_hickup** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:38 pm

Am I the only one not having trouble with these valves? 3 years reliable (touch wood) service from mine. I wouldn't like not being able to turn off the heater. I find quite a lot of heat leaks from it even when the flap is shut.

Post by **wanderinstar** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:08 pm

Oh, I would still be able to turn it off. I saw a simple on /off valve, like a plug tap, in a kit car supplies catalogue. Would fit that under dash.
I WILL get this Bl88dy heater to heat up the car

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:41 pm

Ian - check that the pipes feeding the heater with hot water are not choked with silt or internally collapsed - or maybe just routed with a kink in the pipe ?

Post by **wanderinstar** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 5:28 pm

Roy. You mentioned earlier about fitting 1100 heater. Was it easy to fit and did it fill the bill?

Post by **wanderinstar** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 5:42 pm

AS the top hose was a lot hotter that the heater hose, I was wondering about fitting one of these. https://www.plminishop.com/product-PEM10036.html So taking hotter water from under the stat.
Any thoughts?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 5:46 pm

That's the unit from the later Mini/Metro that had no by-pass - and no heater tap take off. Could be an answer - but water coming from the cylinder head tap at the rear should be just as hot.
1100 Heater was 'made to fit' - rather than 'fitted'. Certainly gave lots more hot air - but can only do if it's getting hot water from the engine!.

Post by **wanderinstar** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 5:49 pm

Was it a difficult job to "make it fit"?