Help please
I have just got my morrie minor out of storage after 15 years.
I have cleaned everything up for a start but have run into a few problems.
1) I cannot remember if the morrie is positively or negatively earthed.
2) I can get the motor to turn over and I have power the fuel pump but the pump is not working. It worked a couple of times for about 5 seconds then it stopped and now it won’t go again. I have cleaned up the points but it makes no difference. The heater also started when I first connected the battery but now I cannot hear that working either????
3 I'm getting good power to the pump but when I test for continuity I get a strong reading when I join the power and earth wires connecting the pump. Am I mad, or should this happen??
Any thoughts would be greatly appriciated.
Cheers Scott
Motor turns over, power to the fuel pump but................
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3204
- Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: S E London
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minor
In standard form the Minor was positive earth. If you have a tape player or an alternator it will have been changed to negative earth.
Try loosening the pump connection coming up from the tank, and see if the pump then works when sucking air, also check the filter in the pump.
Do not undertstand joining the wires on the pump. The pump is NOT fused so joining them together with the ignition on will burn something out! Also, re the heater not working, remove the two fuses on the bulkhead,and clean them up as they have a habit of going high resistance if not regularly agitated and your car certainly qualifies!
Try loosening the pump connection coming up from the tank, and see if the pump then works when sucking air, also check the filter in the pump.
Do not undertstand joining the wires on the pump. The pump is NOT fused so joining them together with the ignition on will burn something out! Also, re the heater not working, remove the two fuses on the bulkhead,and clean them up as they have a habit of going high resistance if not regularly agitated and your car certainly qualifies!
Willie
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
If you take the fuel pump out line off at the carb (and put end into a suitable container) you can better see if its working when you turn on the ignition - i.e. it will click as it pumps.
Definitely what willie says about checking the pump filter - if it did work then could be just that gummed up - or worse the filter in the tank.
Had similar when fiting new points had a devils own job to get them adjusted properly to the point wish i'd saved time by taking it off and doing it on the bench. It did exactly the same and soley just because the points wre not properly set.
Might be an option to buy a pump service kit and do just that, would make life a lot easier and eliminate a possible problem before you get it going.
Definitely what willie says about checking the pump filter - if it did work then could be just that gummed up - or worse the filter in the tank.
Had similar when fiting new points had a devils own job to get them adjusted properly to the point wish i'd saved time by taking it off and doing it on the bench. It did exactly the same and soley just because the points wre not properly set.
Might be an option to buy a pump service kit and do just that, would make life a lot easier and eliminate a possible problem before you get it going.
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2437
- Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 7:10 pm
- Location: North Bedfordshire,
- MMOC Member: No
If your worried about the polarity of the battery I suggest you re polarise the dynamo it only takes 5 mins.
1 remove both wires at dynamo
2 Install the battery and connect earth (whichever way you want it to be, it was originally +ve earth)
3 run a length of wire to the SMALL terminal on the dynamo
4 touch this wire onto the battery live terminal for 4-5 seconds repeat a couple of times.
Job done you can now reconnect the dynamo and battery live. If you have a radio or any other polarity sensitive items make sure its the right way round. But all the standard kit works either way.
1 remove both wires at dynamo
2 Install the battery and connect earth (whichever way you want it to be, it was originally +ve earth)
3 run a length of wire to the SMALL terminal on the dynamo
4 touch this wire onto the battery live terminal for 4-5 seconds repeat a couple of times.
Job done you can now reconnect the dynamo and battery live. If you have a radio or any other polarity sensitive items make sure its the right way round. But all the standard kit works either way.

This message board is like a family - you can't choose the other members!! But remember engine oil is thicker than water.
Why would you do that with the meter? You are putting the meter directly to 12V when it's set to continuity ?? This will ruin the meter. Set to DC volts - and see if there is any power! Or - use a test lamp.
You should be able to check earth status from the size of the battery connections on the main feed wires +ve connection is slightly larger bore than -ve connection. Older style terminals are often marked too.
I wouldn't worry about heater etc until you get the engine running! The fuel pump filter (underside of pump - hex nut) will likely be choked with varnish/rubbish - and the tank likewise. Do try the pump with no pipes on - it should rattle away steadily. If not - chcek points. And it cares not about polarity!
And - don't even try to start the engine until you have squirted oil down the bores through the spark plug holes - and then gently tried turning it by hand with the starting handle! If it turns - try to get oil pressure up before attempting to start. Probably wise to change the oil and filter - and this has the benefit of pouring oil down over the rocker gear and cam followers/cam shaft/timing gear. Obviously - if the engine won't turn with the handle - no point going any further until you get it loosened off!
You should be able to check earth status from the size of the battery connections on the main feed wires +ve connection is slightly larger bore than -ve connection. Older style terminals are often marked too.
I wouldn't worry about heater etc until you get the engine running! The fuel pump filter (underside of pump - hex nut) will likely be choked with varnish/rubbish - and the tank likewise. Do try the pump with no pipes on - it should rattle away steadily. If not - chcek points. And it cares not about polarity!
And - don't even try to start the engine until you have squirted oil down the bores through the spark plug holes - and then gently tried turning it by hand with the starting handle! If it turns - try to get oil pressure up before attempting to start. Probably wise to change the oil and filter - and this has the benefit of pouring oil down over the rocker gear and cam followers/cam shaft/timing gear. Obviously - if the engine won't turn with the handle - no point going any further until you get it loosened off!


