Head Gasket

Post by **simmitc** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:38 pm

1098 engine in generally good condition - all bearings, bores, etc fine, not noisy, low oil consumption, BUT blown head gasket between 3 & 4. This is the third time, getting about 3 thousand miles between each occurrence (and yes, it is torqued down properly!). No obvious signs of warping or wear, never been abused, but clearly the head and/or block must really need skimming. I don't really want that hassle, so thoughts turn to other solutions.

Has anyone ever used any of the alleged sealing compounds when fitting a head gasket? I've always steered well clear of them, but would welcome any comments on their effectiveness, or other suggestions. Thanks.

Post by **Kevin** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:50 pm

Simon the only thing you didn't mention was the type of gasket used as sometimes the non original ones can cause problems whereas the correct payen ones don't.
While you have the head off why not check it and if there is a bit of warping most machine shops can skim it while you wait if you ask nicely beforehand, as for sealing compounds I am with your opinion of them as they should not be needed.

Post by **simmitc** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:59 pm

It is the payen copper gasket. Strangely I've had more success on other engines with the more fibrous variety. I suppose I've just got to find a suitable engineering shop for the head and hope that the block is OK......

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:32 pm

Pick up another head and try that! I too have never had any probs with fibrous gaskets. But if the block has been 'scoured' then nothing will cure it other than skimming - which obviously means stripping down the whole engine. You could try a bit more torque on the head nuts - up to 44 ft lbf should be ok on standard studs/nuts although it helps if you have thick washers under the nuts and oil the threads. If you get hold of a set of the later studs and nuts from a Mini/Metro engine, these have a little Y stamped on the fine thread end and can be taken up to 50 ft lbf. However - with a standard engine none of that should really be necessary. Do however be sure to re-torque the head when cold after the initial warm up - and then re-set the valve gaps.

Post by **Mogwai** » Wed Jan 16, 2008 9:17 pm

as It keeps happening on the same cylinders it may be worth checking that the waterways havn't silted up as this could cause localised overheating at the back of the engine. its probably unlikely but whilst the engine is apart it will be worth backflushing the block & poking a screwdriver , wire coathanger etc down any waterways to loosen any silt that may have built up over the years. It would probably be worth getting the head skimmed anyway if you havn't already . hope this is of some help

Post by **simmitc** » Wed Jan 16, 2008 10:41 pm

Well it's back together with a spare head that just happened to by lying around (oh alright, taken off another engine that wasn't fitted to anything) and now only time will tell..... Thanks for the comments and suggestions.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 7:22 pm

You didn't let on you had a spare engine!! Good luck with it.

Post by **wanderinstar** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 9:23 pm

Sorry to hear about your problem. However it is good to hear someone else has same problems as I do ( fingers crossed, did).
Mine used to blow between 3-4, occasionally 1-2. I had a 92deg stat in. changed that for 88. Had a word with a mini specialist. As Bmc says. Fit mini 998 headstuds and nuts, but something I was told. torque head down with no water in. Then run engine till you can't bear your hand on head. Switch of and re torque. Start engine again and slowly fill with water ( stops airlocks, apparently).
I did this after my last blown gasket and it seems to be working

Post by **Kevin** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 12:34 am

and now only time will tell

No excuse's then for checking if the other head is flat or not.