Canadians

Post by **drbmorriscanada** » Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:21 am

Any other Canadians? Could use some guidance in Edmonton

Post by **8009STEVE** » Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:56 am

What guidance do you need?

Post by **Kevin** » Sat Jan 05, 2008 9:54 am

Welcome aboard, just ask any questions you like and don't worry about the types of questions (even the ones that appear simple) as we will try to answer any type of query even if you have no experience or knowledge of the cars.

Post by **drbmorriscanada** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:11 am

8009STEVE, I just inherited a 1961 MM 1000. I has little to no rust, but hasn't been started in 20yrs. I'm not mechanically experienced. Any sugggestions in prepping it for starting?

Post by **MoggyTech** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:39 am

1: Remove spark plugs and see if engine can be turned over using the starting handle (Make sure car is out of gear) If seized engine will need to be stripped and overhauled. If OK proceed to next step

2: Drain any petrol from the tank, then clean the carb and pump filter to remove gummed up fuel deposits. Fill tank with fresh petrol

3: Fit new plugs, points, condensor, dizzy cap, HT Leads, air filter

4: Replace battery

5: Brakes will be corroded and or seals perished, so brakes will need a total rebuild including the master cylinder, and fresh brake fluid.

After that you should be good to go and stop

Post by **alex_holden** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:05 am

I would change the oil, filter, and coolant too, and don't put a lot of petrol in the tank to start with because you might need to empty it out again if the pickup pipe turns out to be blocked with hardened fuel residue.

You'll also probably need new tyres - they tend to perish and crack if they've been standing around that long.

Post by **Orkney** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:23 am

Probably wouldnt hurt to change the diff & gearbox oil too whilst your at it just in case theres any condensation in there.
A whip round on the greae points wouldnt be a bad thing either.

Ditto what Alex said about the tyres - if they are perished they could be dangerous.

Post by **Willie** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:06 pm

What you need first is a bit of encouragement. The best thing for this is to actually hear the engine start and run! Follow the advice to drain any old fuel and the engine oil. After replacement and with a charged battery
turn the engine on the starter with the plugs removed (provided that you can turn the engine over by hand, there should be a starter handle with the car) until the oil pressure indicator light goes out. If this happens then replace the plugs and try to start it . If it starts then great but you now have to see to brakes, tyres as suggested above. Good luck.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 8:55 pm

I would squirt some engine oil down the bores - through the spark plug holes - before you even attempt to turn the engine on the handle!! And if it won't turn easily - DO NOT force it, you will only smash the rings and score the bores. If it won't turn - come back for advice on how to try to loosen it off!
If it hasn't run for 20 years - you may well need to prime the oil pump before it will get any oil pressure up. There's a wee horizontal plug on the far rh side of the block - near the back edge of the engine - you need to get that unscrewed - pump in oil from a squirt can while someone gently turns the engine on the handle - then refit the plug and crank away until you get oil pressure. To be honest - I doubt you will do this with the handle - probably need to churn it with the starter motor (spark plugs out) until the oil warning light goes out - then keep going for another 5 seconds!
There is also every chance that the clutch will be seized onto the flywheel. Heat soak from the engine can sometimes free this off over time - and there are some brutal methods (basically towing it in gear with ignition switched off while pumping the clutch pedal up and down!) to try to get it released - but after 20 years I suspect the engine will need to come out to get the clutch sorted properly.

Post by **Pyoor_Kate** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:54 am

*wave of goodluck*

It's not much use, I know, but I'm hoping to be out in Canada in a couple of years (actually, one year and four months; assuming that I can get a job/visa/etc as quickly as I'm hoping).

Uh, so, if you're *still* stuck I'll be happy to lend a hand (although I'm hoping to pitch up about 1,000km away from you)

Post by **badfelafel** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 1:07 am

How long would 1000km take in a minor anyway?

Post by **alex_holden** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 8:14 am

Assuming decent roads, a couple of days' drive. Or one very long day.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:11 pm

Minor would make no difference - strict speed limit in Canada !! And as I soon discovered - pretty much everyone sticks to it! Lots of v nice scenery anyway - no need to go fast.

Post by **8009STEVE** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 12:29 pm

Was it not Canada that removed all speed cameras and stored them?

Post by **Pyoor_Kate** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 4:36 pm

Well, when I was driving over there on holiday (both North and South of Toronto) I found that speedlimits were stuck to as they are here. Most people plod along about 15km/h faster than the limit, some go lots faster, and some slower.

Me, I was paranoid 'cos I was driving some huge US barge which was a bit of a shock after the minor

Post by **moggyminor16** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 7:02 pm

and the fines are big if you do go over the limit i found out the hard way but this year i will try to stay with in the limit from med hat to calgary

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:34 pm

In Alberta/BC I found I was v much in the minority when I was speeding along. And - the Cops coming towards you can trap you with their radar - unlike in UK where they need to follow. Obviously by the time you spot the Cop car - he has already noted your speed! They also set up roadside traps - and - if you speed in a 'construction zone' (roadworks to us) - the penalties are VERY severe - often including instant confiscation of Licence! Be warned.