Clutch advice

Post by **nick69** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 5:57 pm

Can anyone give any advice on fitting a new clutch?

Ive never fitted one before as ive always had autos and just wanted to know if there are any tricks. Its a 1098 if that makes any difference?

Thanks as always
Nick

Post by **Orkney** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 6:02 pm

FWIW i'd take it to a garage - often see people come on here and its gone wrong so have to buy another new one. Upshot a garage fit is cheaper than 2 x decent parts kits maybe ?

Post by **MoggyTech** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 6:08 pm

As daft as it may sound, it's better to remove the engine to replace the clutch assuming you have access to an engine hoist. If doing the job by removing the gearbox, it's a fiddle clearing the steering rack when putting the box back in.

Beg borrow or steal a 1st motion shaft to align the clutch, and replace the complete clutch for a Borg and Beck one. Replace the carbon release bearing as well.

Make sure you get the driven plate the right way round on assembly, or the clutch will be locked solid.

Other than that pretty easy.

Post by **bigginger** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 6:12 pm

Or use a clutch alignment tool - machine mart do the best I've found, though have to agree the motion shaft is better. Yup, engine and box out, then follow Haynes - not difficult, just a tad time consuming

Post by **nick69** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 6:16 pm

The engine is out already, it is a B&B kit with new release bearing.
Will any clutch alignment tool be ok? I dont mind buying a 1st motion shaft but if essential etc

I cant take it to a garage as the car is without breaks and engine which is in the garage on the lift.

Im pretty good with most automotive stuff, rebuilt 2 American Auto gearboxes and 3 ford v8s. I just try to get as much info as possible before undertaking a new task.

Post by **alex_holden** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 6:19 pm

If the engine's already out then it's a piece of cake.

Post by **nick69** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 6:27 pm

So just make sure the cover plate is aligned and new release bearing fitted then refit the engine.

Post by **alex_holden** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 6:34 pm

Yes, except it's the friction plate you're trying to align with the crankshaft.

While you've got the clutch off, check the bush in the crankshaft tail is still present and doesn't look too badly worn.

Post by **bigginger** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 6:45 pm

nick69 wrote:The engine is out already, it is a B&B kit with new release bearing.
Will any clutch alignment tool be ok?

Pretty much, yeah - as long as it's not a plastic cheapy. Couldn't get one of them to work at all. Imagine from your reply that you already have one though - go for it

Post by **nick69** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 7:03 pm

Right sorry friction plate. (told you I know nothing about clutches LOL)
Yeah I do have an old Sykes clutch tool somewhere in the garage.

Job done then, ill do that next week.

Thanks for the advice guys
Nick

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 9:11 pm

I just use the shaft of my valve grind tool - with some black tape wrapped around to fit snugly inside the clutch plate. Works a treat !

The pink marigolds are essential too!
Thanks to badfelafel for the picture - and the chance to play with his engine!

Post by **kennatt** » Sat Jan 05, 2008 9:51 am

yes bm thats what I've used for forty years,Its the same grinding tool changed the tape a few times to fit different sized clutch plates.Just as a tip nick,you can just about get the clutch friction plate centralised(Which is what you need to do) by eye useing a tool,but tighten up the cover bolts a bit at a time going round the cover if you do one up tight it can push the plate off centre.When you come to mate up to the gear box put some grease on the splines of the input shaft,put the car into gear to stop the shaft from turning once you get the shaft into the clutch plate keep pressure on the engine to push it towards the gear box and slowly,with a spanner on the bottom pully turn the engine back and forth,to line up the splines on the shaft with the slots on the clutch plate,The engine will suddenly shoot forwards into place,keep the backwards pressure on and get a bolt through the bell housing job done good luck with it

Post by **downsey** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 4:37 am

An alignment tool isn't completely necessary, but makes it a lot easier esp. if youve never done it before.

Post by **dunketh** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:34 pm

Easiest job in the world, especially if you've already rebuilt boxes and whatnot in the past.
Don't worry about it as there really is nothing to worry about.

Replace the bearing whilst you're at it, they're only cheap.

I use a metal socket bar wrapped in tape for aligning the clutch. It doesnt have to be perfect, it'll align itself once the car is up and running. As long as you get it all close enough that you can stick the engine and box back together again without a fight.