Spring hanger and pivot

Post by **wishbone** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:58 pm

Finaly took my 1098 in for Mot and it failed. I suspected it would but wanted a short list to do over christams! I've got some more welding to do around the rear/rear spring hanger and the front nearside pivot bolt bushes are worn. Rear brakes were binding too.

What's the best way to drop the rear of the leaf spring so I can do the work. So far I've taken the rear wing off, wheels, and got it supported on stands under the body so the axle is hanging. Can I just undo the rear spring mount nuts and drive the bolt out? Will it drop away far enough to work on the mount area.

Also the front pivot bolt, similar question. I have it on stands and a jack just lifting the damper clear of the rubber, undid the nuts and have the pivot bolt free but it looks like a big washer (damper side) is rusted on? Should the pivot bolt drive out or do I need to take something else off?

I bought a set of poly bushes recently from esm but don't know which ones are in it! Red ones blue ones black ones. Is it likely the pivot bushes are included, i'm hoping they are?

any advice apreciated.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:00 pm

Rear spring hanger - yes - support the axle then take the bolts out and lower away. Be aware you are v close to the petrol tank! Watch out for fires inside the spare wheel well when welding - remove spare wheel etc and have an extinguisher at the ready.
Which front 'pivot bolt' bushes are you dealing with ? Are they at the top of the upright - where damper arm meets upright ? If so - just pull the upright to the side - wiggle it off the damper arm - it can be done! And the bushes here are much larger than elsewhere - ploy are ideal.

Post by **wishbone** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:33 pm

Yes its the top of the upright. So I can get it off without taking the steering arm off. I'll have a go!

Yes the petrol tank was worrying me a bit. I'll heed your advice and have the extiguisher handy! I may try and sheild it from sparks with somthing.

Post by **bigginger** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 9:01 pm

Are we talking about where the damper arm meets the top trunnion? IME, you need to undo the lower suspension arm, remove the pin through the lower trunnion pivot and break the TRE joint as well. Sure I'm misunderstanding something here, but I can't see how it could just "wiggle off"

Post by **paulk** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 9:55 pm

If you are changing the whole rear spring hanger panel Take the fuel tank out as you get better access and if its as bad as Maude was you need the tank out to beef up the boot floor area.

I supported the car on a baulk of timber just in front of the front spring hanger and another supporting the very rear of the boot floor under where the bootlid locks down.

While your under there check the area around and under the bump stop, you won't want to go back in there next year again.

Watch out for fires in the boot even without the tank there, as the car fills up with smoke real quick.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 10:49 pm

Yes - with careful juggling of jack etc it is possible to wiggle the top link off the damper arm. Nothing to do with steering arm which is lower down. And yes - I wrapped my tank and filler pipe with damp cloths and stuffed a damp cloth down the filler pipe. But I was only doing a v small repair. If it's anything major indeed better to remove the tank.

Post by **Nadir** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:05 pm

I can't imagine how, but I'll have a go next time,,,

Post by **Kevin** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:29 am

Yes - with careful juggling of jack etc it is possible to wiggle the top link off the damper arm. Nothing to do with steering arm which is lower down.

Thats the way I have always done them, and dont forget to only fully tighten when its back on the ground.

Post by **wishbone** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 7:06 pm

If I get a chance I'll try and jiggle the pivot bolt out tomorrow if not it'll be next weekend. I guess it'll be harder to get back on with new bushes!

Paulk
I filled the car up with smoke whilst welding in the summer, nearly choked on it while putting out the flames licking along the headlining and melting the sunvisors! fitted a set of seat covers and a new headlining a couple of weeks ago so I'll be carefull not to repeat that mistake! i'll post some pics when i get my camera hooked up, lead keeps disapearing, Kids.....

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 9:13 pm

You don't wiggle the pin out - you wiggle the large 'eye' off the pin - removing the outer rubber bush helps. And - it goes back fine!

Post by **wishbone** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 7:08 pm

Wiggling it off worked a treat! Pried the upright away and sort of turned and wiggled the top trunion (i think thats its name) off the pivot bolt. Poly bushes went in easy and getting it back on was easier than getting it off! Thanks BMC.
One thing though, is there a torque setting for the two nuts on the pivot bolt?

Post by **MoggyTech** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 7:50 pm

One thing though, is there a torque setting for the two nuts on the pivot bolt?

Nope, just tighten with weight of the car on the ground and knock over the tab washer. The taper on the pin and thrust washers ensure the whole lot stays put.