captive nuts

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Tue Dec 16, 2003 7:58 pm

where is the most difficult captive nut on a minor?

Post by **Dizzi141** » Tue Dec 16, 2003 9:35 pm

The one to fix on the rear wing. You have to take of the interior covering thing on the wheel arch by the door. Or maybe mine was just more difficult cos it had totally rusted and wasn't captive any more.I guess this may be the most difficult cos it's the only one I have come across so far.

Post by **Cam** » Tue Dec 16, 2003 10:12 pm

Under the master cylinder gets my vote!

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Tue Dec 16, 2003 10:24 pm

yeah those 2 are mean. the rear wing on a 4 door, master clyinder.
difficult to chose

Post by **Kevin** » Wed Dec 17, 2003 4:53 pm

And the amount of corrosion and rust involved will make any nut a joy to behold

, not so difficult to get apart but hard to come apart in one piece anything involving small chrome parts.

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Wed Dec 17, 2003 7:23 pm

coach bolts on bumper

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Dec 17, 2003 8:56 pm

the captive bolts in the back of the hockey stick... (ok it's not a captive nut but they frustrate me a lot) My MOT station fails on 'headlight alignment' if he can yank the wing loose to the grille surround. Needless to say the hockey stick fasteners never work well enough to hold the wing solid after 30 years of corrosion on the threads (especially if they completely broke off...)

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Wed Dec 17, 2003 9:06 pm

bit of a brute in the mot station

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Dec 17, 2003 9:18 pm

they all have their quirks

- better the devil you know!

Post by **_h_____** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 2:03 pm

Got to agree with the ones on the rear wings as the worst of them all, but will also add front wing captive nut in the far top corner, you can only get a spanner on the bolt and the nut is well hidden. Unless you are cutting off the wing, its a bugger to get to the bolt.

Hockey stick 2BA fittings are a swine as well, anyone got a good fix for those, I am for ever replacing them and finding 2BA studs is tricky. This time I tried the waxoyl trick and then putting dumdum over them to see if I can stem the corrosion.

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Sun Jan 11, 2004 6:47 pm

yea those hockey stick nuts are constantly bombarded by stuff from the front wheel. tough enviroment

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Sun Jan 11, 2004 6:48 pm

i have seen plastic sleves sliped over the threads coated in waxoil

Post by **_h_____** » Mon Jan 12, 2004 7:29 pm

Yep, pastic sleeves is a good way to go too.

Post by **Willie** » Mon Jan 12, 2004 8:52 pm

2 BA nuts? Radio spares sells nylon ones. use them with
Waxoyl and you will have no problems.

Post by **Kevin** » Tue Jan 13, 2004 12:27 am

Willie thats got to be worth a posting under do you know as it sounds a top tip to me

Post by **MrA.Series** » Tue Jan 13, 2004 11:58 am

The captice nuts on the crest of the front wings that are hidden by the pressed brace. I hate them!

Post by **salty_monk** » Tue Jan 13, 2004 1:55 pm

Coca cola is good for freeing off drastically rusted nuts. soak a rag in it tie it round & leave for a couple of hours (if you have time!) (keep it wet) & you'll get it straight off if you can get a spanner on it...

Don't believe me then try putting a steel nail in a glass of coke for a period of time...

Imagine what this stuff does to your teeth!

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Jan 13, 2004 2:54 pm

and your insides

are you sure yo're a nurse ? ;-)
stomach acid is more agressive than cola - ask anyone with reflux problems which they would rather have in their throat!

Post by **Cam** » Tue Jan 13, 2004 2:58 pm

ask anyone with reflux problems which they would rather have in their throat!

That's me and I agree!!! coke anyday (although I actually don't like it!)

So we agree then, Coke is best for rusted nuts and not for drinking!