Front end lowering
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- Minor Friendly
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Front end lowering
Does anyone know how to lower the front end of a split screen morris minor?? i know they have torsion bars but didnt want to touch them before gtting some advice on how to do it. Aswel with lowering does anyone know how to stiffen the front suspension as mine is very soft, i thought of putting heavier oil in the dampers but will this work?? I seen front shock absorbers kits on a parts website, would these make much difference? sorry for all the questions but any help would be great, thanks everyone
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- Minor Fan
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Theres a vernier plate at the reaction ends of the torsion bars that give you a little adjustment, or you can reset the torsion bars by 1 spline which is supposed to give you about an inch and a half drop, there are stronger torsion bars availiable from specialists and theres always advice on what oil you can put in the lever arms to tighten them up.
I'll see you on the otherside'!
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- Minor Legend
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The Morris Minor was designed with neutral suspension position with the car unladen. 60mm up 60mm down = 120mm total suspension travel (limited by upper and lower bump stops)
If you lower the car too much, you risk the suspension bottoming out, unless you increase suspension spring rate by adding stronger torsion bars, and or coil over shocks. If you simply lower the car without stiffening up the suspension, you risk mashing the inner wings, as the top trunnion hammers into the bump stop.
Some folk use engine oil in the dampers, but if you do this, check the damper mounting bolts to bulkhead are tight and in good condition.
FWIW I run with 1/2" lowered at the front with the valves removed from the dampers, and Gas Dampers Mod Kit fitted. This gives added safety, as a worn lower trunnion cannot be ripped off the kingpin, as the Gas Dampers act as a brace link that limit suspension movement beyond +5mm in either direction from maximum. Combined with 185/60/R14 tyres, the ride is pretty smooth for a Moggy
If you lower the car too much, you risk the suspension bottoming out, unless you increase suspension spring rate by adding stronger torsion bars, and or coil over shocks. If you simply lower the car without stiffening up the suspension, you risk mashing the inner wings, as the top trunnion hammers into the bump stop.
Some folk use engine oil in the dampers, but if you do this, check the damper mounting bolts to bulkhead are tight and in good condition.
FWIW I run with 1/2" lowered at the front with the valves removed from the dampers, and Gas Dampers Mod Kit fitted. This gives added safety, as a worn lower trunnion cannot be ripped off the kingpin, as the Gas Dampers act as a brace link that limit suspension movement beyond +5mm in either direction from maximum. Combined with 185/60/R14 tyres, the ride is pretty smooth for a Moggy

Not everyone would agree! If you MUST do this - take note of what's been said already - you will have no worthwhile suspension travel, the front uprights will smash the inner wings, the suspension arms will smash the tie-plates (and wrench the eye-bolts through the front chassis members) - and if you lower the rear too much, the rear axle (assuming the bump stops have been sacrificed to get the car low) will smash the 'chassis' rails and the car will effectively start to break it's back. If you really want a low-rider car - you will need to engineer it properly.



Its quite acceptable to lower 1 spline, (about 11/2") on the torsion bars with no adverse effect on the action and safety of the suspension. You must cut down the top bump stop by a half and ideally uprate the torsion bars by 30%.
Lowering the rears by blocks should really be done by weldin on the correct axle perches for the desired amount of drop, rather than by adding lowering blocks, again you will need to reduce the bump stops by a half.
Lowering the rears by blocks should really be done by weldin on the correct axle perches for the desired amount of drop, rather than by adding lowering blocks, again you will need to reduce the bump stops by a half.
Last edited by jonathon on Wed Nov 07, 2007 10:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Cutting down the bump stop will allow serious contact/damage (and you lose the 'progressive' effect of the taper nose on the bump stop!) - I agree completely - if doing this then some spring rate changes will be necessary - be they uprated bars - or coil spring 'helpers' or even complete replacement coils.



But cutting down the bumpstops in effect gives you the same amount of travel, and only potholes or driving up kerbs will induce the kind of excessive travel that you describe. A well set up car will produce between 1" and 11/2" of travel in normal road use. Might just be those Scottish roads or your liking for rallying



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- Minor Legend
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