Doing away with the bypass hose between head and block

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MikeNash
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Doing away with the bypass hose between head and block

Post by MikeNash »

Anyone done this?
As I never turn off the heater supply I don't need the bypass hose and so could elimiinate a potential source of trouble by blanking it off. I'm thinking of aralditing a short bolt in the stub under the head and ditto into the water pump casting, but I suspect others have a more elegant soloution. What do you think? MikeN.
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MoggyTech
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Post by MoggyTech »

If you do this, remember to drill a couple of small holes into the thermostat to allow some coolant flow before the stat opens.

Not sure I like the idea of having a water system blanked off using glue.
Heat + vibration could cause the glue to fracture and break. Better to run a threaded tap into the pipes and fit blanking plugs with some thread seal such as Atmos.
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Post by rayofleamington »

If you do this, remember to drill a couple of small holes into the thermostat to allow some coolant flow before the stat opens.
The thermostat only controlls the flow to the radiator. Having a permanently open heater circuit will ensure there is some flow (like on some a-series where there is just an open stub pipe on the head for the heater, not a valve, and therefore no need for a bypass hose)
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MikeNash
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Post by MikeNash »

Yes, I like the idea of threaded bolts. I'm just going to have a rummage to see what I can find, but I wondered if anyone had already done this. I suspect that threading the water pump in place will be difficult. Will let you know. MikeN.
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MikeNash
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Post by MikeNash »

Well, I've run a 3/8th inch BSF tap down the pipe on the water pump casting and got a good fit with a short bolt. In the head I've run a 7/16th inch BSF tap but as the stub is thin, luckily its a shallow thread. But it takes a bolt securely. I'll trim it down to make plug. Unless anyone's got an awful warning, I'm inclined to give it a go.
MT, what's Atmos and where do I get it? I'm inclined to use a Locktite product or go back to Araldite, but if Atmos is The Thing, I'll give it a go.
MikeN.
By the way, is the stub in the head a press fit? I can't move them in either of the head's I've got.
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bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Excellent idea to eliminate bypass - took Rover 40 years to think of it! No need for holes in thermostat - and you will find your heater works better - and sooner. Just use Loctite on your threads - it will be fine.
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alex_holden
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Post by alex_holden »

I unscrewed the head stub (with the assistance of an oxy-acetylene torch and a cold chisel) and Loctited a cap head bolt in its place, then I replaced the water pump with a Metro one that doesn't have a bypass fitting. I drilled a couple of small holes in the outside of the thermostat to make sure there's always some flow through the head.
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Post by bmcecosse »

Lucky to get that stub out! It's often badly rusted. And if you want v best heater performance - fit an 88 degree stat with NO holes for the winter.
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MoggyTech
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Post by MoggyTech »

Any good thread seal will do as long as it's water resistant. Atmos is just a brand name for plumbers thread seal.
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Post by MikeNash »

Thanks for all the advice folks!
I'm going out now to cut up a couple of bolts to make plugs with screwdriver slots in the ends and install them with some sealant. Another vulnerability less! Regards, MikeN.
(bmc - already got an 89C thermo and v pleased.)
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Post by Kevin »

I think its possible to get a blanking plug from the Mini specialists if you can get the old stub out of the head.
Cheers

Kevin
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Post by bmcecosse »

Some Rover heads have that plug fitted - dunno about availablity today.
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Kevin
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Post by Kevin »

Cheers

Kevin
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Post by bmcecosse »

That would do nicely - and only £1 each. Well found!
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M25VAN
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Post by M25VAN »

If you didn't want to change over the water pump or fit a plug into it will this do which was listed on the web page mentioned above,

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=32723

bit expensive but cheaper here,

http://www.hytheperformance.co.uk/index ... rod_id=724
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