Oil filter conversion - spin on type

Post by **southerly95** » Sun Sep 30, 2007 11:31 pm

Our moggy came with a spin on/off filter and I cannot get on with it and think I'm going to put the old type back on. After tightening by hand and at the due service I attempt to undo it but it will not come off at all easily. There is no room to use a chain type wrench to remove so I'm using a wrap round type that fits onto a half inch drive extension. The torque needed to move it buckles the drum and it shouldn't be like that. My Renault one turns by hand with no prob and doesn't leak so why is this one a prob? Any ideas? Thaks, John.

Post by **MoggyTech** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 1:21 am

Spin on filters do seem to tighten up in use, probably heat related, causing the oil sealing ring to grab onto the metal. You can always stick a screwdriver through them to get them off, but it's fairly drastic. I've stayed with the original bolt through filter assembly, as I find it's reliable, and easy to work with.

Post by **Willie** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 11:05 am

The spin off type is totally reliable and much easier to change, I wouldn't
be surprised to learn that it was also more efficient at filtering the oil too.
I have found that every spin off filter I have used, on many different makes of car, are difficult to remove probably because, in my case, I always tighten it more than the instructions suggest! I have never had problems with using the chain tool on a Minor.

Post by **Judge** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 2:38 pm

Ditto

Post by **simmitc** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 4:29 pm

I use the fabric wrap-round on 1/2 inch ratchet, position the strap at the bottom of the canister where it is ridged, never any problem.

Post by **dalebrignall** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 5:43 pm

i have got a chain type filter remover combined with the 3/4 socket drive it comes off easy. i also have a three pronged device,that goes underneath the filter you put a socket on the bolt on the bottom and turn. it self tightens on the filter and i presume it undoes. have not used it yet,made by draper. i always put lots of oil on the rubber seal on the filter.the worse ones i have removed were the hydralic filters on the massey ferguson tractors i used to drive mainly because of the size and inaccessiability we used to change them every 1000 hours.

Post by **leyther8008** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:33 am

I,m sure I,ve seen a whopping big spanner that fits on the flats on the bottom of the cannister, made out of flat plate, cant remember where though, Halfords maybe? And Sealy list some huge oil filter sockets that can pass 85 lbsf of torque. that would be enough to twist one off.

Post by **bigginger** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 1:36 pm

You can get a variety of tools to do the jop - a large pare of 'pliers' for one. I've found a chain wrench to br the best though.
a

Post by **Orkney** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 2:31 pm

You need to oil the rubber seal well before fitting - only hand tighten - the compression of the rubber acts like a spring washer.
The times these get overtightened by service mechanics is awful.
Have had then refusing to budge several times - not with a chain or strap thingy.
When they wont move the only way is to find your biggest strong screwdriver and whack it straight through the cylinder horizontally. Makes a heck of a mess but more often than not gives you that bit of leverage you need.

I,m sure I,ve seen a whopping big spanner that fits on the flats

was convinced i had one of those - turned out it was a blooming immersion heater spanner for hot water tanks

Post by **dalebrignall** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 4:24 pm

the only problem with using the screwdriver is it really burns all your bridges if the filter does not come off,i am allways frightened to do this

Post by **Packedup** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 6:02 pm

dalebrignall wrote:the only problem with using the screwdriver is it really burns all your bridges if the filter does not come off,i am allways frightened to do this

Not really - If the filter cuts in half, you take the whole assembly off and can chisel the remains away that way. Takes a while, but not insurmountable

Then again, I've just tried to fit a spin on housing, and found the nmetal pipe on my 1098 doesn't fit it, and the pipe off the 1275 lump it was fitted to doesn't fit my 1098. So that was a worthwhile use of 2 hours...

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:09 pm

I don't understand this fascination with spin on filters - there is nothing wrong with the original - new elemets are only £3 or less - the filter area is larger than the spin-on (but seemingly NOT spin-off!) - and the original is easy to change - and to pre-load with oil before start up. My vote says stay with the good original.

Post by **Orkney** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:14 pm

Another good reason for the old type ones - a bit greener !
new element = a top firelighter of the old one and no oily metal canister going into a landfill somewhere.
Will convert mine back to an old style one when the opportunity arises.

Post by **MoggyTech** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 8:02 pm

You can also inspect the old filter type a darn site easier than a spin on filter, before fitting (for defects) and after removel, to look for particles that shouldn't be there if the engine is healthy.

The only drawback I have found with the old style filter, is getting a good dose of hot engine oil up your sleeve the first time you take one off. Or not knowing there is a spring in there, and watching three items fly about the garage

So cheaper/greener and as for the concours guys...well nuff said.

Post by **millerman** » Sun Oct 07, 2007 12:20 am

Spin on filter by far the best and cheaper replacements BUT there is a move back to element type filters on modern engines, anyone know the reason why?