What's that!?

Post by **pettefar** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 3:48 pm

On the driver side of my engine, underneath the spark plugs, there is a large upright metal cylinder bolted to the engine with a metal pipe also connecting to the engine and a single electrical wire connecting to the top.

What is it? Any clues? It's not the fuel, water or oil pump so far as I know.

Nick
Swindon

Post by **Welung666** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 3:50 pm

That would be your oil filter!

Post by **pettefar** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 3:52 pm

With an electrical connector?

Post by **FlyingScot** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 3:54 pm

The electrical connector could be for the oil filter blockage light on the speedo. What year is the car?

Post by **pettefar** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 3:56 pm

1967 Traveller

Post by **Welung666** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 3:58 pm

Blocked oil filter warning light then.

Post by **pettefar** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 4:58 pm

Thanks!

I was searching for the water pump but have since discovered it is behind the fan somewhere (engine overheats and I have checked everything else).

Post by **picky** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 7:07 pm

the pulley with your cooling fan on it also turns the water pump. It is probably a light alloy colour.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 9:56 pm

And the overheating will NOT be caused by anything to do with the water pump!. First check - IS it really overheating ? Or is the gauge just reading a bit high.

Post by **pettefar** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:53 pm

Well, there's steam coming out from under the bonnet and water [Don't swear or you will be banned - Admin] out from the radiator (that doesn't normally leak). It's like the engine has been converted into a giant kettle!

What would you call it?

Post by **gordong** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:04 am

is there a hole in the rad?
have you checked the pressure cap? make sure its not releasing hte pressure to early and dumping the coolant
if the water pump isnt pumping then the coolant is not getting pushed through the system and through the radiator to cool down

Post by **pettefar** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:31 am

I haven't replaced the radiator cap - it looks OK but then I guess you can't tell between a good one and a bad one.

The radiator is fine.

I need to check the pump - that's on my definite list. I think there was an article in a previous club magazine.

Post by **chickenjohn** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:06 am

Unless you remove the radiator and inspect both sides for damage, you can't be sure the radiator is fine. (is it a new one?)

Other than that, by far the most common source of overheating has to be a leaking hose. Check hose clamps for tightness and check hoses for leaks. Less likely, silted up block/head or rad, even less likely head gasket problem or cracked block/ head. Least likely is water pump as BMC said these rarely give trouble in the Minor.

I would in this order:-

1.check hoses for leaks and hose clips are tight. (dont forget bypass hose)
2. drain coolant and back flush both rad and engine.
3. check heater valve for leaks
3.5 Check thermostat.
4. carefully check rad for leaks.
5. then look at engine/ water pump causes.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 11:25 am

It won't be the pump!! They don't go wrong pumpingwise - except perhaps to leak of course but that would be obvious. Most likely it's the by-pass hose - if you see steam/water then you have a leak from somehwere unless it's coming down the overflow pipe from the radiator (also v obvious) - which indeed indicates a boiling engine. If that's the case - then look to blocked up radiator (flush it out) or head gasket problems.

Post by **pettefar** » Fri Sep 28, 2007 9:14 am

Thanks for all the great info chaps!

I would have thought that if steam was coming out then the water was too hot.

The hoses are perfect, I have flushed the engine out using a hose connected to the bottom water inlet and seen clear water pour out of the thermostat housing (with the thermostat out). The radiator is fine and tests OK.

I will buy another radiator cap anyway though. What is the best spec for a Traveller or is there only one?

Then I will check out if the water pump is blocked or inhibited in some way. I am trying to find the last club magazine because there was apparently an article in there about the water pump and its problems.

Post by **simmitc** » Fri Sep 28, 2007 6:58 pm

It's worth topping up the radiator to normal level, then running the car just enough to get it up to temperature; and then check everywhere for leaks with the engine running - BE CAREFUL - there are moving parts, HT electricity, and hot surfaces.

The idea of this test is to check whether there is a leak that develops only at high temperatures and under pressure. The pressure cap for a standard engine is 4 lbs/sq in.

Other possible sources of leak are the heater (obvious if water inside car) and the cylinder drain tap (if fitted, l/h side near back plate and below tappet chest cover)

The usual cause of overheating is lack of water, which is caused by a leak. I concur that water pumps do not usually fail, just leak; but I did have one literally explode once, which the shaft shooting towards the radiator.

Other causes of overheating include poor ignition timing and binding brakes - does the car move easily when pushed, and/or is there any decline in performance?

Post by **eastona** » Sat Sep 29, 2007 1:07 pm

1.check hoses for leaks and hose clips are tight. (dont forget bypass hose)
2. drain coolant and back flush both rad and engine.
3. check heater valve for leaks
3.5 Check thermostat.
4. carefully check rad for leaks.
5. then look at engine/ water pump causes.

great list, echo all of that. They're usually really simple causes for problems, and the chaps are right, rarely is the water pump the cause of overheating, unless they are dumping water out.

Years ago I froze my LandRover engine solid, by forgetting to put anti freeze into it in a very cold Derbyshire winter

lots of icicles and rock solid coolant pipes

. when I tried to start up the only complaint was the water pump that shed lots of impeller blades. It lasted for years after that, I never changed it.

they are quite robust really.
Andrew