Thanks Kirsten, I will keep a lookout for 15" ones, I assume they are minilites? I really like the look of the wolfrace alloys, but have not seen them in 15" with the right PCD. Looking at my 13" ones, I think if I found a set that were the wrong PCD they could be redrilled to have 4" PCD aswell.
Got trouble with my carburetor now.. the fuel pump does not stop pumping fuel, even when engine is stopped, just with ignition turned on. carb is hif44, I will take it off this evening and have a look, I think the float is not rising to shut off the fuel supply. Its really frustrating that I am now getting bogged down with really basic problems, like dodgey starter motor connections, loose brake pipes and now this...
Picky
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
spot on kirsten, although im amazed ive not had any problems with the supercharger setup, which was a major hurdle. ive got 6 weeks till I start uni I want to be on the road by then!
Picky
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
sorted the starter motor and the fuel pump issue but now when you start the engine it goes straight to 5000rpm and doesnt stop until you pull the ignition coil cables off bit more work needed I think...
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
drove it to the end of the drive today!! but the supercharger belt came off as I changed into 2nd gear and it stalled. cant be long now though.
Picky
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
get back out there and finish it!!! I am dying to know what it is like on the road!!!!!
good luck with all the ironing out of the fiddly bits.
cheers, michael.
sorted the belt problem, but its impossible to drive. If you press the throttle too much while trying to set off, you get gravel everywhere. if you dont press the throttle enough then it just stalls when you let in the clutch. couldnt even get out of the drive grrrr
Think it could be partly due to the engine running a bit rough, but also if one of my back brakes is too tight? Im currently running without any dashpot oil or a carb needle, so some serious fiddling is needed before its good enough for an MOT.
also apologies for my blog/website thing going down, im working on it..
Picky
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
bit of a set back this week, as the starter motor has packed up altogether! replacement is supposed to turn up tomorrow though. After some discussion on the mg bbs I think I may need a rising rate fuel regulator, and also a fuel pump that can do higher pressure, but this should only be apparent at high boost, should be able to drive it around if I dont push it too hard.
Still confused about the trouble I had trying to drive it though, rear brakes were both fine.
Once the new starter arrives Ill be back to work.....
Picky
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
Don't understand you say no dashpot oil - and no needle ?? It MUST have a needle or it will be impossibly rich. And yes - you will need a fuel pump that exceeds the scharger pressure - or as carb pressure rises fuel supply will cease!
I dont understand either - engine was running, I stopped it and fitted carb needle and filled with dashpot oil and then it would not start. removed needle, emtpied dashpot and it started ok. When I get the new starter motor I will do some more testing with needles and damper oil etc.
Picky
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
You need to watch out - you could be pumping floods of petrol down the bores which will ruin the rings in ultra quick time !!It absolutely MUST have a needle !!!!!!!!!!!!
I can't imagine that the lack of control of fuel helps your poor running problems. I agree with BMC oil in dashpot and any needle in the carb is a point to start from. Perhaps the needle is sticking and the piston is not moving in the carb. Check it drops with a clonk when you let it drop. ( the piston in the carb, not the car!)
This message board is like a family - you can't choose the other members!! But remember engine oil is thicker than water.
Bit OT - But Rog when you say drops down with a clunk do you mean the cylinder with the chamerred lower inlet leading edge (the one with the needle in the centre)? Been looking at mine wondering if its using too much fuel and that cylinder just slides down slowly as if held by an almost vacuum?
Will start a new thread on this in a few days when i get to look at it properly and need help, just wondered in the meantime
My HS4 carb has the swing needle fitting and it still drops well if you push it up by hand and let it go. If anything is out of line or if there is some dirt in there it will run like a pig.
This message board is like a family - you can't choose the other members!! But remember engine oil is thicker than water.
Cheers will have a proper look at it then - runs fine and assumed the suction from the inlet manifold pulled it down once the throttle cable tension was let off. Reluctant to start messing for fear of breaking something
It must fall with a 'clunk' when the little damper piston has been removed (unscrew the black/brass nut on top and lift out) . With that still in place - especially if you have thickish oil in there - it will slide down slowly. Vacuum pulls it up - spring + weight pushes it back down. I use 3 in 1 oil in the damper - but some prefer engine oil.
bmcecosse wrote:I use 3 in 1 oil in the damper - but some prefer engine oil.
with a standard set-up (which i realise may well not apply here!) you are supposed to use a specific weight of oil, which can be bought at motor factors and Minor parts specialists. If you have a standard set-up (again, this is not directed to you, BMCE) DON'T use engine oil or 3-in-1!!! You won't kill the engine but the carb won't function properly at all.
but now when you start the engine it goes straight to 5000rpm and doesnt stop until you pull the ignition coil cables off 
bit more work needed I think...
