Front Spring Hangers to New Floor

[stag36587]

I'm about to replace the front spring hangers.

I'm not sure yet whether the front of the spring hanger repair panel will fit neatly with the full floor replacement panel (which seems thinner metal than the original)

I can cut into the new floor panel and buttweld in the front springhanger panel. I am just wondering though if there would be any risk or disadvantage in lap-welding the springer hanger repair directly onto the underside of the new floor - in effect - giving a double thickness of metal?


Thanks in advance for all views
Alastair

[paulk]

I've got this exact repair to do (both sides) and I thought that 2 layers would be a problem as its a potential rust trap (if any moisture finds its way in)

But as you say the hanger repair panel is thicker so it makes more sense to cut the floor but then you have to cut up a reletivly nice pressing.

[chickenjohn]

Yes its much better to cut the floor to shape and butt weld the two together- any water and the overlap will start rusting.

[youngun]

Basically, lapping the two plates would add extra strength, but as Paul says, you would end up with a potential rust trap. A butt weld will be more than substantial enough if done well.
There is another way, but it requires the purchase of a tool called a Joggler, which basically makes a lip on the sheet which you can then place the new piece on and seam weld. It makes for a strong joint, and smaller rust trap. If you dont know what im on about ill draw a little diagram, as its quite hard to explain!

YG

[bigginger]

*OR* Joddler, if it helps with finding more info
And no, I'm not having a go, it's known by both names

[rayofleamington]

The front hanger was originally connected to the floor, where the floor was connected to the front of the rear seat box - and also the the sill box section as it sweeps inwards around the rear wheel arch.
This gives the original spring hanger mounting a LOT of strength/rigidity.

One problem with adding the big plate 'double skinned' is that most people will refit it without remaking any of these connections to the car structure The panels are supplied without any instructions or reference to how the original hanger was supported, so often the person who fits it is completely unaware.

As the plate is usually thick and not that big, the effects are not too big, however when the double skinned rust trap causes corrosion over life this can become a bigger problem.

However you fit the repair panel, it is worth to 'plug weld' right through all the layers 1) from the front edgde of the rear seat box and 2) from the inner step edge of the sill box section.

When I did this repair on the 54 I found that the sill inner step had rusted away in this area This is probably quite common and nearly impossible to find unless you know to look for it (where the sill inner step continues in the hidden area under the seat box).
I got around this by cutting back the floor under the seat box, and as the sill was being replaced at the same time, I had lots of access to rebuild the sill inner step in what would normally be a hidden area.