The work has begun!

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youngun
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The work has begun!

Post by youngun »

A good friend of mine, who has restored a number of minors before came over today, and we got cracking! We cut out the old boxing plate (all of it was removed) and then welded in the new one as it should stop the floor and B pillar from moving, and will also allow me to offer up other parts to it. I know this is not the way some would do it, but this is the way he's done it before.... There will need to be some careful repairs done on all pillars, but nothing too awful. I have now got rid of the outer sill and started to remove the inner sills, which i have new sections for. But first the jacking point and part of the cross member needs to be removed.......any tips for doing that? What do you lot think of the work so far?
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... y07001.jpg
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... July07.jpg
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... y07002.jpg
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... July07.jpg

Thanks, YG
Ultimate rust cure for your moggy....paint it brown, at least that way you dont notice the rust as much!!
youngun
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Posts: 859
Joined: Sat Aug 19, 2006 9:30 pm
Location: North Devon
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Post by youngun »

Oh, and before i dash off to work.......when i said inner sills i meant floor edge panels. I can see how the rear one fits, looks straight forward enough, but the front seems slightly different to whats rusting away on the minor at the moment. Indeed currently it drops down at a 90 degree angle for about 2 inches before forming the inner sill ( the last picture on my previous post should show what im on about!), yet on my new section its got no piece like this. Does this piece weld onto the "drop down" piece or is it just a re-designed piece that will fit anyway. The section i have is a Front Floor edge panel from ESM.

cheers,
YG
Ultimate rust cure for your moggy....paint it brown, at least that way you dont notice the rust as much!!
chickenjohn
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Post by chickenjohn »

Hi Youngun, the front floor edge panel (i know it well! ;-)) is welded to the edge of the floor panel where it sandwiches the floor pan between itself and the flange of the inner sill step. There is an extra bit to the panel to take account of any rot in the edge of the floor- you can cut off if your floor pans are good. The other end of the floor edge panel which forms a small "U" shaped channel section is spot welded (or seam welded on the bottom edge) to the flat flange of the outer sill panel.

The "U" will be upside down (almost a lowercase "n"). The top of the n (bottom of U) is welded to the boxing panel.

In your picture you can cut off all the rusty metal haging down below the level of the floor pan. What is left (inner sill and floor pan) should form a clean right angle. The floor edge panel will join this to the boxing panel.

It would be so much easier with a few photos or a diagram- links anyone??

Keep up the good work Youngun! :)
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
- Come to this years Kent branches Hop rally! http://www.kenthop.co.uk
(check out the East Kent branch website http://www.ekmm.co.uk )
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youngun
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Post by youngun »

Thanks John, i sat down under the car today and did some working out. My floor is fairly thin, so i will use the entire panel. The plan is to cut the floor pan away from the inner sill step and lip, so i can then use the inner sill step and lip as a reference point. Then ill tack the section to the floor-pan to check to make sure if it lines up with the outer under sill. I see the U section of the floor edge panel fits in the U section of the outer under sill, is this how it goes or does it but up against the u, the foremost would be stronger?
Ultimate rust cure for your moggy....paint it brown, at least that way you dont notice the rust as much!!
chickenjohn
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Post by chickenjohn »

The outer most sides of each "U" should butt up spot or plug weld through them, not fit one in the other. Butting up, the outer sill should be in just the right place for the sill finisher rail to fit neatly under the lower lip of the door. Tack it all in place, fit the door and bolt on the sill kick plate and finisher rail to make sure it all fits and looks good before final seam/ plug welding.

Sounds like you've worked it out! :-)
youngun
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Post by youngun »

Would it be an idea to lightly take the outer undersill in place in first to act as reference for when i weld in the inner sill section.

I have now got down to the clean right angle made by the inner sill step and the floor, and luckily its mainly solid........but ill use the whole repair sections are the floor is a bit ropey. The section still seems completely to different to what ive cut off and everytime i put it in place it looks miles off, but i spose its just one of those things!

Pictures of progress to follow tommorrow!
Ultimate rust cure for your moggy....paint it brown, at least that way you dont notice the rust as much!!
chickenjohn
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Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2004 8:50 am
Location: Margate, East Kent
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Post by chickenjohn »

Yes, Thats a good idea, i would tack in the outersill, and more than that. When tacked in, temporarily re-fit the sill cover, sill rail and the door, to ensure it a all lines up and the door shuts properly.

Then you can weld the floor edge panels to fill the gap between the floor edge (as the name of the panel suggests) and the outer sill. It should meet the outer sill below the boxing panel.

Keep up the good work!
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
- Come to this years Kent branches Hop rally! http://www.kenthop.co.uk
(check out the East Kent branch website http://www.ekmm.co.uk )
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